Things to do in Kagoshima Ken
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Recife
Arty and cool, this mellow multipurpose bar-restaurant also has DJ decks and hosts occasional parties. It's popular with locals and expat groovers, and has Latin-American eats.
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Saigō Nanshū Kenshō-kan
Displays at the Saigō Nanshū Kenshō-kan tell of Saigō Takamori and the failed rebellion. Although the Great Saigō had played a leading part in the Meiji Restoration in 1868, in 1877 he had second thoughts about the curtailment of samurai power and status, and this led to the ill-fated Satsuma Rebellion. Kumamoto's magnificent castle was burnt down during the rebellion but when defeat became inevitable, Saigō retreated to Kagoshima and committed seppuku (ritual suicide by disembowelment).
Despite his mixed status as both a hero and villain of the Restoration, Saigō is still a towering figure in the history of Japan. His square-headed features and bulky stature are in…
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Sengan-en (Iso-teien)
Starting in 1658, the 19th Shimazu lord laid out this hilly, rambling bayside garden, incorporating one of Japan's most impressive pieces of 'borrowed scenery': the fuming peak of Sakurajima. It was also a strategically important lookout for ships entering Kinkō-wan. Poetry parties took place along the stream in the Kyokusui Garden – participants had to compose a poem before the next cup of sake floated by. Allow at least 30 minutes for a leisurely stroll, more if you visit the Shimazu-ke villa, once a second home of the Shimazu clan. Kimono-clad women guide you through the villa, followed by traditional tea and sweet service. Other teashops around the garden sell jamb…
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Shōko Shūseikan
The museum of Shōko Shūseikan, adjacent to Sengan-en, once housed Japan's first factory, built in the 1850s. Exhibits relate to the Shimazu family - in fact most of the 10,000 items are precious heirlooms, including ancient scrolls, military goods and pottery. The art of kiriko (cut glass) has been revived at an on-site workshop.
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Izakaya Wakana
The Kagoshima-Chūō branch of this famous local eatery is a two-minute walk from the station's west exit. For tasting, try the kushiage moriawase (barbecue skewer selection; five pieces ¥650) or miso oden moriawase (hotpot selection; five pieces ¥700). Order off a picture menu, or sit and point from the counter. It's across from Tōyoko Inn.
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Museum of the Meiji Restoration
Museum of the Meiji Restoration has hourly performances by robotic Meiji-era reformers, including Saigō Takamori and Sakamoto Ryōma. Ask for headphones for English translation – otherwise, it's helpful to have a Japanese speaker in tow.
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Kagomma Sentō (Onsen)
Kagoshima boasts no less than 50 public onsen baths. Local favourite Nishida Onsen (M0090; 255-6354; 12-17 Takasu) is just a few minutes' walk from JR Kagoshima-Chūō. Kagomma Sentō (Onsen) is five minutes' walk from the Sakurajima Port.
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Reimeikan
Reimeikan has extensive displays on Satsuma history and ancient swordmaking. It's inside the site of Kagoshima's castle, Tsurumaru-jō (1602); the walls and moat are all that remain, and bullet holes in the stones are still visible.
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De'Nile
This is another subterranean dance spot with different DJs every night, located behind Taka-Pla.
Most dance clubs don't get going until around 23:00. Many bars have as admission charge (average around ¥500 to ¥1000).
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Kagoshima City Museum of Art
Kagoshima City Museum of Art has a small, permanent collection of works by modern-day Kagoshima painters, as well as some 16th-century porcelains and woodblock prints, and a wonderful collection of Sakurajima paintings.
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Tontoro
Chūō-machi Yamanokuchi The homey, bustling shop on Yamanokuchi is a local institution for rāmen in thick tonkotsu pork broth. Look for the old house with the red awning. There's another, more polished branch near JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station.
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Suigei Bar
Named 'Drunken Whale' in Japanese, this appealing, low-key pub has a cluster of small tables and stools, with sho-chū and other drinks from around ¥500, small meals like rice salad from ¥600.
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Ōshō
Just around the corner from central post office, with excellent (nongreasy!) chicken kara-age, a local favourite, fried rice and gyoza - it's cheap, good and fast. A picture menu is available.
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No No Budo
Follow the after-work crowd to this natural food all-you-can-eat buffet with a range of Japanese standards, sashimi and deserts. Hard to beat, and there's a real nonsmoking section.
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Wakana Honten
Come early to avoid the wait at this popular eatery specialising in miso-oden (around ¥650), sashimi and black pork that you cook at your table.
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Nishida Onsen
Kagoshima boasts no less than 50 public onsen baths. Local favourite Nishida Onsen is just a few minutes' walk from JR Kagoshima-Chūō.
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Kagoshima City Aquarium
Beautiful seascapes brim with your favourite marine life by the harbour, plus dolphin and otter shows. There's great English signage.
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El Para Latin Sports Bar
Catch your big sports game here, or indulge in beer and darts. Features a killer menu of small-plate Spanish appetisers (tapas).
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Modern Bali
This atmospheric eatery and bar serves authentic Indonesian favourites like gado-gado and nasi goreng.
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Kurō-udo Bar & Izakaya
Over 200 kinds of shō-chū, swank bamboo décor and cool jazz make this an inviting spot.
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Bourbon Street
Listen to mellow jazz and blues at this smart basement shot bar, just opposite Tenmonkan-dō tram stop.
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Asa ichi
Kagoshima's is just south of JR Kagoshima-Chūō station. It's a raucous, lively event.
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Kagoshima Brand Shop
You can shop for quality goods at Kagoshima Brand Shop in Tenmonkan.
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Futaya
For vintage kimonos and inexpensive gifts; near Nakazono Ryokan.
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