Things to do in Beppu
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Onsen Hoyōland
Onsen Hoyōland has wonderful giant mud baths, as well as mixed-gender and open-air bathing.
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The Hells
Beppu's most hyped attraction is the 'hells' or jigoku, a collection of hot springs where the water bubbles forth from underground, often with unusual results. You can purchase an around ¥2000 coupon that covers all except two (Hon Bōzu Jigoku and Kinryū Jigoku). Unlike Unzen, where you see the geothermal wonders natural, raw, and unadorned, these have been turned into mini-amusement parks, each with a different theme.
If you're pressed for time and unsure if this is your cup of, er, onsen water, peek at the postcard pack in the station, which has good pictures, and you'll know instantly whether these are worth your time.
The hells are in two groups - eight at Kannawa, …
reviewed
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Hebi-no-yu
The Myōban area has a number of wonderful hidden baths, tucked away out of the public eye. High in the mountain greenery is a free rotemburo, the Hebi-no-yu (Snake Bath).
The Beppu station information desk ladies (volunteers all!) are also happy to make you a hand-drawn map.
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Shōnin-ga-hama Sand Bath
Between JR Beppu station and the Kamegawa onsen area, try the very popular Shōnin-ga-hama Sand Bath ; it has a great beach location and English is spoken.
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Takegawara Onsen
The Hells, though mildly interesting, shouldn't distract you from the real hot springs. Scattered around the town are eight onsen areas. Onsen enthusiasts spend their time in Beppu moving from one bath to another - experts consider at least three baths a day de rigueur. Costs range from around ¥100 to around ¥1000, though many (and two of the best) are free. Bring your own soap, washcloth and towel, as many places don't rent them.
There's an onsen festival during the first weekend in April. Some of the baths alternate daily between male and female so that each gender can appreciate each side. Near JR Beppu station, the classic Takegawara Onsen dates from the Meiji era. …
reviewed
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Eki Ichiba
To see a Beppu few travellers find, head to a long and winding shopping arcade under the tracks out the back of Beppu station. This is where local residents fill their grocery bags with fresh fish and veggies, and also pick up wonderful eki-ben (station lunch boxes) and hot meals to take home. You don't need much English to enjoy this bustling, workaday market, and get a good bargain while you're at it.
It's great fun to wander from stall to stall, savouring the yobuko-ika (squid tempura) or futomaki sushi (rice and seaweed roll). On weekends, you'll find lots of university students stocking up on provisions for the week ahead. During the week many elderly folks who live …
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Hyōtan Onsen
The Hells, though mildly interesting, shouldn't distract you from the real hot springs. Scattered around the town are eight onsen areas. Onsen enthusiasts spend their time in Beppu moving from one bath to another - experts consider at least three baths a day de rigueur. Costs range from around ¥100 to around ¥1000, though many (and two of the best) are free. Bring your own soap, washcloth and towel, as many places don't rent them. There's an onsen festival during the first weekend in April.
Some of the baths alternate daily between male and female so that each gender can appreciate each side. Hyōtan Onsen has a rotemburo and also offers sand baths (yukata rental around…
reviewed
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Shibaseki Onsen Baths
The Hells, though mildly interesting, shouldn't distract you from the real hot springs. Scattered around the town are eight onsen areas. Onsen enthusiasts spend their time in Beppu moving from one bath to another - experts consider at least three baths a day de rigueur. Costs range from around ¥100 to around ¥1000, though many (and two of the best) are free. Bring your own soap, washcloth and towel, as many places don't rent them.
There's an onsen festival during the first weekend in April. Some of the baths alternate daily between male and female so that each gender can appreciate each side. Shibaseki Onsen Baths are near the smaller pair of hells. You can also rent a …
reviewed
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Mushi-yu Steam Bath
The Hells, though mildly interesting, shouldn't distract you from the real hot springs. Scattered around the town are eight onsen areas. Onsen enthusiasts spend their time in Beppu moving from one bath to another - experts consider at least three baths a day de rigueur. Costs range from around ¥100 to around ¥1000, though many (and two of the best) are free. Bring your own soap, washcloth and towel, as many places don't rent them.
There's an onsen festival during the first weekend in April. Some of the baths alternate daily between male and female so that each gender can appreciate each side. North of the town, in the Kannawa onsen area, near the major group of hells, i…
reviewed
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Tsuru-no-yu
The Myōban area has a number of wonderful hidden baths, tucked away out of the public eye. Locals built and maintain Tsuru-no-yu (the easiest to reach), a lovely free rotemburo up on the edge of Ogi-yama. During July and August, a natural stream emerges to form the milky blue bath. Take a bus to Konya Jigoku-mae bus stop (25 minutes northwest from JR Beppu station). Walk up the small road that hugs the right side of the graveyard until the road ends.
Dive into the bushes to your left, and there's the bath. The Beppu station information desk ladies (volunteers all!) are also happy to make you a hand-drawn map.
reviewed
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Ichinoide Kaikan
The owner of Ichinoide Kaikan is an onsen fanatic, so much so that he built three pool-sized rotemburo in his backyard. The view, overlooking Beppu and the bay, is the city's finest. Bathing is free when you order a set menu (teishoku; around ¥1100), and the chefs prepare it while you swim. To get there by bus and walking, inquire at the Foreign Tourist Information Office. A shared taxi (from Beppu, around ¥900) might be a good investment.
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Hihōkan Sex Museum
Among the Kannawa hells, this sex museum spans the lurid to the bawdy: erotic ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), natural and sculpted objects shaped like private parts, and a depiction of Snow White we frankly wish we hadn't seen.
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Jin Robata & Beer Pub
A flashing neon fish sign directs you to this welcoming, international pub. There's plenty of great food to go with your booze. Pick from the rows of fresh fish on display, then watch it being grilled behind the counter.
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Beppu Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre
The hands-on crafts centre displays refined works from Edo-period masters as well as current examples of uses for this versatile material which grows copiously in this region. From Beppu Station, take bus 22 or 25 to Dentō Sangyō-kaikan-mae or bus 1 to Minami-haru (about 200m away). If you'd like to try your own hand (¥300), reservations are requested a couple days ahead.
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Myōban Onsen Area Baths
In this quiet and hilly area you will find numerous baths as well as odd thatched-roof huts that are Edo-era replicas of the huts in which bath salts were made. You can go inside (the salts resemble yellow-brown mould), wander the 'hell' outside, and even purchase salts for a bath from hell when you return home.
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Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University
In 2000, Kyoto-based Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University opened its landmark college in Beppu, with about half its undergraduates drawn from other parts of Asia and beyond - a unique situation in Japan. The campus overlooks the city from Jumonji-baru, a 30-minute bus trip from Beppu station (around ¥520).
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Nabeyama-no-yu
The Myōban area has a number of wonderful hidden baths, tucked away out of the public eye. Nabeyama-no-yu is the last of the wild onsen of Myōban.
The Beppu station information desk ladies (volunteers all!) are also happy to make you a hand-drawn map.
reviewed
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Toyotsune
Main Branch Beppu Station Toyotsune nails the Beppu specialities: toriten, Bungo-gyū and lots of fresh fish, plus tempura. The main branch is on the corner behind Jolly Pasta, and the second branch is across from Beppu Station.
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Ureshi-ya
You'll get your money's worth at this friendly and busy shokudō with donburi (dishes served over rice), sashimi, oden (hotpot), noodle dishes and more, displayed for you to choose.
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Kuishinbō
A cheerful corner izakaya open till 02:00 serving unusual tofu and daikon steaks, and chawan-mushi (savoury custard), and around ¥100 yakitori skewers - good for a late-night snacking.
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World Sports Bar Small Eye
You'll find a good mix of young folk at this Yankee-styled bar with high ceilings, darts and beach umbrellas.
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Tomonaga Panya
This charming, historic bakery has been in business since 1916, and people still queue for its ever-changing selection of oven-fresh breads and pastries. The wanchan (doggie) bun is filled with custard cream and uses raisins for the eyes and nose. Note: it closes when sold out.
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Mugen-no-Sato
This collection of privately available small rotemburo is ideal for a romantic, secluded dip. Ask for a kazoku-buro (private bath). Mugen-no-sato is five minutes' walk west from Horita.
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Kitahama Termas Onsen
For an onsen experience next to the beach, head to Kitahama. There are separate baths for men and women; the outside rotemburo mixes it up, but you'll need a bathing suit.
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Speakeasy
Like speakeasies of old, you have to duck under a low door to enter this swank and friendly back-alley jazz bar. Tap beer and stronger stuff cost from around ¥500.
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