The Hells

Beppu's most hyped attraction is the 'hells' or jigoku, a collection of hot springs where the water bubbles forth from underground, often with unusual results. You can purchase an around ¥2000 coupon that covers all except two (Hon Bōzu Jigoku and Kinryū Jigoku). Unlike Unzen, where you see the geothermal wonders natural, raw, and unadorned, these have been turned into mini-amusement parks, each with a different theme.

If you're pressed for time and unsure if this is your cup of, er, onsen water, peek at the postcard pack in the station, which has good pictures, and you'll know instantly whether these are worth your time.

The hells are in two groups - eight at Kannawa, over 4km northwest of Beppu station, and two more several kilometres away. In the Kannawa group, Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell), with its large expanse of steaming artificially blue water, and Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell) may be worth a look. Kinryū Jigoku (Golden Dragon Hell) and Kamado Jigoku (Oven Hell) have dragon and demon figures overlooking the pond. Kinryū features tropical fruit trees, compliments of the steamy tropical surroundings. Skip the Oni-yama Jigoku (Devil's Mountain Hell) and Yama Jigoku (Mountain Hell), where a variety of animals are kept under shamefully bad conditions.

The smaller pair has Chi-no-ike Jigoku (Blood Pool Hell), with its photogenically red water, and Tatsumaki Jigoku (Waterspout Hell), where a geyser performs regularly. The final two hells, not included in the group's admission ticket, are Hon Bōzu Jigoku (Monk's Hell) with its collection of hiccupping and belching hot-mud pools up the long hill from the main group of hells, and Kinryū Jigoku with its 'dragon-spitting' steam vent, for the easily impressionable.

From the bus stop at JR Beppu station, buses 5, 9, 41 and 43 go to the main group of hells at Kannawa. There are buses every 20 minutes but the round-trip (around ¥820) costs virtually the same as an unlimited-travel day pass (around ¥1000).

Jigoku tour buses regularly depart from the JR Beppu station (¥3000, including admission to all hells).