Takegawara Onsen

The Hells, though mildly interesting, shouldn't distract you from the real hot springs. Scattered around the town are eight onsen areas. Onsen enthusiasts spend their time in Beppu moving from one bath to another - experts consider at least three baths a day de rigueur. Costs range from around ¥100 to around ¥1000, though many (and two of the best) are free. Bring your own soap, washcloth and towel, as many places don't rent them.

There's an onsen festival during the first weekend in April. Some of the baths alternate daily between male and female so that each gender can appreciate each side. Near JR Beppu station, the classic Takegawara Onsen dates from the Meiji era. Its bath is very simple and very hot; simply scoop out water with a bucket, pour it over yourself, and jump in! It also has a relaxing sand bath where a yukata is provided. You lie down in a shallow trench and are buried up to your neck in heated sand, followed by an onsen dip and shower. The entire affair takes about 40 minutes.