Hyōtan Onsen

The Hells, though mildly interesting, shouldn't distract you from the real hot springs. Scattered around the town are eight onsen areas. Onsen enthusiasts spend their time in Beppu moving from one bath to another - experts consider at least three baths a day de rigueur. Costs range from around ¥100 to around ¥1000, though many (and two of the best) are free. Bring your own soap, washcloth and towel, as many places don't rent them. There's an onsen festival during the first weekend in April.

Some of the baths alternate daily between male and female so that each gender can appreciate each side. Hyōtan Onsen has a rotemburo and also offers sand baths (yukata rental around ¥200). Most ryokan and minshuku also have public baths.