Sights in Kyoto
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Ninen-zaka & Sannei-zaka/ Sannen-zaka
Just below and slightly to the north of Kiyomizu-dera, you will find one of Kyoto's loveliest restored neighbourhoods, the Ninen-zaka-Sannen-zaka area. The name refers to the two main streets of the area: Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka, literally 'Two-Year Hill' and 'Three-Year Hill' (the years referring to the ancient imperial years when they were first laid out). These two charming streets are lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and restaurants. If you fancy a break, there are many teahouses and cafes along these lanes.
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Adashino Nembutsu-ji
This rather unusual temple is where the abandoned bones of paupers and destitutes without next of kin were gathered. Thousands of stone images are crammed into the temple grounds, and these abandoned souls are remembered each year with candles here in the Sentō Kuyō ceremony held on the evenings of 23 and 24 August. The temple is about 15 minutes' walk north of Giō-ji.
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Daikaku-ji
A 25-minute walk northeast of Nison-in you will find Daikaku-ji, one of Kyoto’s less-commonly visited temples. It was built in the 9th century as a palace for Emperor Saga, who then converted it into a temple. The present buildings date from the 16th century and are palatial in style; they also contain some impressive paintings. The large Osawa-no-ike pond was once used by the emperor for boating and is a popular spot for viewing the harvest moon.
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Kōtō-in
On the far western edge of the Daitoku-ji complex (you may have to ask directions to find it), this sublime garden is one of the best in all Kyoto and it’s worth a special trip. It’s located within a fine bamboo grove that you traverse via a moss-lined path. Once inside there is a small stroll garden which leads to the centrepiece: a rectangle of moss and maple trees, backed by bamboo. Take some time on the veranda here to soak it all up.
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Kyoto Botanical Gardens
The Kyoto Botanical Gardens, opened in 1914, occupy 240,000 sq metres and feature 12,000 plants, flowers and trees. It is pleasant to stroll through the rose, cherry and herb gardens or see the rows of camphor trees and the large tropical greenhouse (adult ¥200, child ¥80 to ¥150). This is a good spot for a picnic or a bit of frisbee throwing. It's also a great spot for a hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) party and the blossoms here tend to hold on a little longer than those elsewhere in the city. The gardens are a five-minute walk west of Kitayama subway station (Karasuma line).
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Nomura Museum
This museum is a 10-minute walk north of Nanzen-ji. Exhibits include scrolls, paintings, implements used in tea ceremonies and ceramics that were bequeathed by business magnate Nomura Tokushiki. If you have an abiding interest in the tea ceremony or in Japanese decorative techniques such as lacquer and maki-e (decorative lacquer technique using silver and gold powders), this museum makes an interesting break from temple hopping.
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Daisen-in
The two small Zen gardens in this subtemple of Daitoku-ji are elegant examples of 17th-century karesansui (dry-landscape rock garden) style. Here the trees, rocks and sand are said to represent and express various spectacles of nature, from waterfalls and valleys to mountain lakes. It’s one of the more popular subtemples here, but not as rewarding as Kōtō-in or Obai-in.
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Hōsen-in
A quieter option than Sanzen-in, this temple is just down the path west of the entry gate to Shōrin-in. The main tatami room offers a view of a bamboo garden and the surrounding mountains, framed like a painting by the beams and posts of the building. There is also a fantastic 700-year-old pine tree in the garden. The blood-stained Chi Tenjō ceiling boards came from Fushimi-jō castle.
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Tsūen-jaya
Another stop for a taste of Uji’s famed green tea is Tsūen-jaya, located just across from the station. Japan’s oldest surviving tea shop, Tsūen-jaya has been in the Tsūen family for more than 830 years. The present building, near Uji-bashi, dates from 1672 and is full of interesting antiques. You can try fresh matcha (powered green tea), including a sweet, for ¥680.
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Rakushisha
This hut belonged to Mukai Kyorai, the best-known disciple of illustrious haiku (17-syllable poem) poet Bashō. Literally meaning 'House of the Fallen Persimmons', legend holds that Kyorai dubbed the house Rakushisha after waking one morning after a storm to find the persimmons he had planned to sell from the garden's trees scattered on the ground. The hut is a short walk downhill and to the north of Jōjakkō-ji.
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Ryōgen-in
Ryōgen-in is yet another fine subtemple in the Daitoku-ji complex. It’s got two pleasing gardens, one moss and one karesansui. The karesansui has an interesting island in its midst that invites lazy contemplation. When you enter the Daitoku-ji complex via the east (main) gate, it’s on the left, just before Obai-in.
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Teradaya Museum
Famed as the inn of choice for rebel samurai Sakamoto Ryōma (1834–67), today Teradaya operates as a museum. Fans of Ryōma faithfully make the pilgrimage here to see the room where he slept. You might have to ask a passer-by for directions, as the way is poorly marked. There is a sign out the front in English that reads: ‘The site of the Teradaya Feud’.
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Kizakura Kappa Country
A short walk from its competitor, Gekkeikan, Kizakura is another sake brewery worth a look while you’re in the neighbourhood. The vast complex houses both sake and beer breweries, courtyard gardens and a small gallery dedicated to the mythical (and sneaky) creature Kappa. The restaurant-bar is an appealing option for a bite and a bit of fresh-brewed ale.
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Umekōji Steam Locomotive Museum
A hit with steam-train buffs and kids, this museum features 18 vintage steam locomotives (dating from 1914 to 1948) and related displays. It's in the former Nijō Station building, which was recently relocated here and carefully reconstructed. For an extra few yen, you can take a 10-minute ride on one of the fabulous old trains (departures at 11am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm).
From Kyoto Station, take bus 33, 205 or 208 to the Umekō-ji Kōen-mae stop (make sure you take a westbound bus).
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Reikan-ji
Only open to the public in spring and autumn, Reikan-ji is one of Kyoto’s great lesser-visited attractions. During the spring opening, you will find the grounds positively rioting with camellia. In autumn, the brilliant reds of the maples will dazzle the eye. The small collection of artworks in the main building is almost as good as the colours outside.
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Taihō-an
On the river bank behind Byōdō-in stands the delightful Taihō-an. The friendly staff conduct a 30-minute tea ceremony (ask for the tatami room, unless you’ve got knee trouble). Casual dress is fine here and no reservations are necessary. Buy your tickets at the Uji-shi Kanko centre next door.
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Nishijin Textile Center
In the heart of the Nishijin textile district, this is worth a peek before starting a walk around the area. There are also displays of completed fabrics and kimonos, as well as weaving demonstrations and occasional kimono fashion shows. Unfortunately, these days, it's often overrun with large bus tours. It's on the southwest corner of the Horikawa-dōri and Imadegawa-dōri intersection.
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Nishijin
The Nishijin district is the home of Kyoto's textile industry, the source of the fantastically ornate kimonos and obi (ornamental kimono belts) for which the city is famous. It's one of Kyoto's more traditional districts, and there are still lots of good old machiya (traditional town houses) scattered about. To reach Nishijin, take bus 9 from Kyoto Station to the Horikawa Imadegawa stop.
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Kaleidoscope Museum of Kyoto
This one-room museum is filled with unexpected wonders. Frankly, we had no idea of the variety and complexity in the field of kaleidoscopes. We don’t know who will enjoy this more, children or the adults trying to keep them entertained. It’s right behind the Museum of Kyoto.
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Saihō-ji
The main attraction at this temple is the heart-shaped garden designed in 1339 by Musō Kokushi. The garden is famous for its luxuriant moss, hence the temple's other name, Koke-dera (Moss Temple). While the reservation procedure is troublesome and the entry fee rather steep, a visit to the temple is highly recommended – the lush, shady garden is among the best in Kyoto.
Before you visit the garden, you will be asked to copy a Sutra using a Japanese ink brush. It's not as hard as it sounds, as you can trace the faint letters on the page – and don't worry about finishing. Once in the garden, you're free to move about as you wish.
Take bus 28 from Kyoto Station to the…
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Nanzen-in
This subtemple of Nanzen-ji is up the steps after you pass under the aqueduct. It has an attractive garden designed around a heart-shaped pond. This garden is best seen in the morning or around noon, when sunlight shines directly into the pond and illuminates the colourful carp.
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Jikkō-in
Only about 50m north of Sanzen-in, this small temple is often praised for its lovely garden and fudan-zakura cherry tree, which blossoms between October and March. Jikkō-in is worth the visit if you want to escape the crowds that often plague Sanzen-in.
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Fureai-kan Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts
For a break from temple-gazing, pop into the excellent Fureai-kan Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts. Exhibits include wood-block prints, lacquerware, bamboo goods and gold-leaf work. It’s in the basement of Miyako Messe (Kyoto International Exhibition Hall).
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Jōjakkō-ji
If you continue north of Ōkōchi Sansō, the narrow road soon passes stone steps on your left that lead up to the pleasant grounds of Jōjakkō-ji. The temple is famous for its maple leaves and the Tahōtō pagoda. The upper area of the temple precinct affords good views east over Kyoto. The temple is a 10-minute walk north of Ōkōchi Sansō.
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Nison-in
Nison-in is in an attractive setting on a wooded hillside. The long approach to the temple, which is lined with lovely maple trees, is the biggest drawcard. The temple is located a short walk north of Jōjakkō-ji.
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