Sights in Kyoto
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Higashi Hongan-ji
A short walk north of Kyoto Station, this temple is the last word in all things grand and gaudy. Considering the proximity to the station, the free admission, the awesome structures and the dazzling interiors, this temple is an obvious spot to visit if you find yourself near the station.
In 1602, when Tokugawa Ieyasu engineered the rift in the Jōdo Shin-shū school, he founded this temple as a competitor to Nishi Hongan-ji. Rebuilt in 1895 after a series of fires destroyed all of the original structures, the temple is now the headquarters of the Ōtani branch of Jōdo Shin-shū.
In the corridor between the two main buildings you'll find a curious item encased in glass: a…
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Jakkō-in
The history of Jakkō-in is exceedingly tragic. The actual founding date of the temple is subject to some debate (somewhere between the 6th and 11th centuries), but it gained fame as the temple that harboured Kenrei Mon-in, a lady of the Taira clan. In 1185 the Taira were soundly defeated in a sea battle with the Minamoto clan at Dan-no-ura. With the entire Taira clan slaughtered or drowned, Kenrei Mon-in threw herself into the waves with her grandson Antoku, the infant emperor; she was fished out – the only member of the clan to survive.
Unfortunately the main building of the temple burned down in May 2000 and the newly reconstructed main hall is lacking some of the…
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Daigo-ji
Daigo-ji was founded in 874 by the priest Shobo, who gave it the name of Daigo. This refers to the five periods of Buddha's teaching, which were often compared to the five forms of milk prepared in India, the highest form of which is called daigo (ultimate essence of milk).
The temple was expanded into a vast complex of buildings on two levels: Shimo Daigo (Lower Daigo) and Kami Daigo (Upper Daigo). During the 15th century, the lower-level buildings were destroyed, with the sole exception of the five-storey pagoda. Built in 951, this pagoda still stands and is lovingly noted as the oldest of its kind in Japan and the oldest existing building in Kyoto.
The subtemple …
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Shisen-dō
Most travellers to Kyoto don’t venture beyond Ginkaku-ji when exploring the northern reaches of Higashiyama, but there are several other worthwhile temples in this part of town, including Shisen-dō and Manshu-in. These two temples make a nice combination and are usually ignored by the masses who descend on Kyoto’s more popular temples. Note that it’s too far to walk here from Ginkaku-ji; consider a taxi or the bus. With a name meaning ‘house of poet-hermits’, Shisen-dō was built in 1641 by Ishikawa Jōzan, a scholar of Chinese classics and a landscape architect who wanted a place to retire to. Formerly a samurai, Jōzan abandoned his warrior status after a rift with…
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Kyoto Imperial Palace
The original imperial palacewas built in 794 and was replaced numerous times after destruction by fire. The present building, on a different site and smaller than the original, was constructed in 1855. Enthronement of a new emperor and other state ceremonies are still held here.
The Gosho does not rate highly in comparison with other attractions in Kyoto and you must apply for permission to visit. However, you shouldn't miss the park surrounding the Gosho.
To get there, take the Karasuma line subway to Imadegawa or a bus to the Karasuma-Imadegawa stop and walk 600m southeast.
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Sumiya Pleasure House
Shimabara, a district northwest of Kyoto Station, was Kyoto’s original pleasure quarters. At its peak during the Edo period (1600–1867) the area flourished, with more than 20 enormous ageya – magnificent banquet halls where artists, writers and statesmen gathered in a ‘floating world’ ambience of conversation, art and fornication. Geisha were often sent from their okiya (living quarters) to entertain patrons at these restaurant-cum-brothels. By the start of the Meiji period, however, such activities had drifted north to the Gion district and Shimabara had lost its prominence. Though the traditional air of the district has dissipated, a few old structures remain.…
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Byōdō-in
This Buddhist temple was converted from a Fujiwara villa in 1052. The Hōō-dō (Phoenix Hall), more properly known as the Amida-dō, was built in 1053 and is the only original remaining building. The phoenix was a popular mythical bird in China and was revered by the Japanese as a protector of Buddha. The architecture of the building resembles the shape of the bird, and there are two bronze phoenixes perched opposite each other on the roof.
The building was originally intended to represent Amida's heavenly palace in the Pure Land. This building is one of the few extant examples of Heian-period architecture, and its graceful lines make one wish that far more of its type…
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Sanzen-in
Founded in 784 by the priest Saichō, Sanzen-in elongs to the Tendai sect of Buddhism. The temple's Yusei-en is one of the most photographed gardens in Japan, and rightly so. Take some time to sit and enjoy the garden.
After seeing Yusei-en, head off to the Ojo-gokuraku Hall (Temple of Rebirth in Paradise) to see the impressive Amitabha trinity, a large Amida image flanked by attendants Kannon, goddess of mercy, and Seishi, god of wisdom. After this, walk up to the hydrangea garden at the back of the temple, where in late spring and summer you can walk among hectares of blooming hydrangeas.
To get to Sanzen-in, follow the signs from Ōhara's main bus stop up the hill past a…
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Tō-ji
This temple was established in 794 by imperial decree to protect the city. In 818 the emperor handed the temple over to Kūkai, the founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism. Many of the buildings were destroyed by fire or fighting during the 15th century; most of those that remain date from the 17th century.
The Kōdō (Lecture Hall) contains 21 images representing a Mikkyō (Esoteric Buddhism) mandala. The Kondō (Main Hall) contains statues depicting the Yakushi (Healing Buddha) trinity. In the southern part of the garden stands the five-storey pagoda, which burnt down five times. It was rebuilt in 1643 and is now the highest pagoda in Japan, standing 57m tall.
The…
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Shūgaku-in Rikyū
This imperial villa was begun in the 1650s by the abdicated emperor Go-Mizunoo, and work was continued after his death in 1680 by his daughter Akenomiya.
Designed as an imperial retreat, the villa grounds are divided into three large garden areas on a hillside: lower, middle and upper. The gardens' reputation rests on their ponds, pathways and impressive use of 'borrowed scenery' in the form of the surrounding hills; the view from the Rinun-tei Teahouse in the upper garden is particularly impressive.
Tours, in Japanese, start at 9am, 10am, 11am, 1.30pm and 3pm (50 minutes). You must make advance reservations through the Imperial Household Agency. An audio guide is available…
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Kyoto Station
Kyoto's station building is a striking steel-and-glass structure – a futuristic cathedral for the transport age. Take some time to explore the many levels of the station, all the way up to the 15th-floor observation level. If you don't suffer from fear of heights, try riding the escalator from the 7th floor on the eastern side of the building up to the 11th-floor aerial skywalk, high over the main concourse.
In the station building you'll find several food courts, the Kyoto Prefectural International Centre (京都府国際センター), a performance space and an Isetan department store.
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Gekkeikan Sake Ōkura Museum
The largest of Fushimi’s sake breweries is Gekkeikan, the world’s leading producer of sake. Although most of the sake is now made in a modern facility in Osaka, a limited amount is still handmade in a Meiji-era sakagura (sake brewery) here in Fushimi. The Gekkeikan Sake Ōkura Museum houses a collection of artefacts and memorabilia tracing the 350-year history of Gekkeikan and the sake-brewing process. Giant murals depicting traditional methods of brewing adorn the walls and there is the chance to taste (and of course buy) some of the local brew. If you are travelling with a tour group that is larger than 20 people and if you call two weeks in advance (623-2001), you…
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Nijō Jinya
A few minutes’ walk south of Nijō-jō, Nijō Jinya is an interesting attraction, although it’s not really geared to foreign visitors. This former merchant’s home was built in the mid-1600s and served as an inn for provincial feudal lords visiting the capital. What appears to be an average Edo-period mansion, however, is no ordinary dwelling. The house contains fire-resistant earthen walls and a warren of 24 rooms, and was ingeniously designed to protect the daimyō against possible surprise attacks. Here you’ll find hidden staircases, secret passageways and an array of counterespionage devices. The main room’s ceiling skylight is fitted with a trap door from where…
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Kōryū-ji
A bit out of the way, Kōryū-ji is easily paired with nearby Myōshin-ji to form a half-day tour for those with an interest in Japanese Buddhism. It’s notable mostly for its collection of Buddhist statuary and so a visit with a knowledgeable guide is a good way to learn about the different levels of beings in the Buddhist pantheon. Kōryū-ji , one of the oldest temples in Japan, was founded in 622 to honour Prince Shōtoku, who was an enthusiastic promoter of Buddhism. The Hattō to the right of the main gate houses a magnificent trio of 9th-century statues: Buddha, flanked by manifestations of Kannon. The Reihōkan contains numerous fine Buddhist statues, including the…
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Jingo-ji
This is the best of the three temples in the Takao area. This mountain temple sits at the top of a long flight of stairs that stretch up from Kiyotaki-gawa to the temple's main gate. The Kondō (Gold Hall) is the most impressive of the temple's structures; it's roughly in the middle of the grounds, at the top of another flight of stairs.
After visiting the Kondō, head in the opposite direction along a wooded path to an open area overlooking the valley. Don't be surprised if you see people tossing small discs over the railing into the chasm below. These are kawarakenage – light clay discs that people throw to rid themselves of their bad karma. Be careful: it's addictive,…
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Tenryū-ji
One of the major temples of the Rinzai school of Zen, Tenryū-ji was built in 1339 on the former site of Emperor Go-Daigo's villa after a priest had dreamt of a dragon rising from the nearby river. The dream was interpreted as a sign that the emperor's spirit was uneasy and the temple was constructed as appeasement – hence the name tenryū (heavenly dragon). The present buildings date from 1900, but the main attraction is the 14th-century Zen garden.
Arashiyama's famous bamboo grove lies just outside the north gate of the temple.
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Shimogamo-jinja
This shrine, dating from the 8th century, is a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is nestled in the fork of the Kamo-gawa and Takano-gawa rivers, and is approached along a shady path through the lovely Tadasu-no-mori. This wooded area is said to be a place where lies cannot be concealed and is considered a prime location to sort out disputes. The trees here are mostly broadleaf (a rarity in Kyoto) and they are gorgeous in the springtime.
The shrine is dedicated to the god of harvest. Traditionally, pure water was drawn from the nearby rivers for purification and agricultural ceremonies. The hondō (main hall) dates from 1863 and, like the Haiden hall at its sister shrine,…
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Myōshin-ji
The vast temple complex Myōshin-ji is a separate world within Kyoto, a walled-off complex of temples and subtemples that invites lazy strolling. Myōshin-ji dates back to 1342, and belongs to the Rinzai school. There are 47 subtemples, but only a few are open to the public.
From the north gate, follow the broad stone avenue flanked by rows of temples to the southern part of the complex. The eponymous Myōshin-ji is roughly in the middle of the complex. Your entry fee here entitles you to a tour of several of the buildings of the temple. The ceiling of the hattō (lecture hall) here features Tanyū Kanō's unnerving painting Unryūzu (meaning 'dragon glaring in eight…
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Maruyama-kōen
This park is a great place to escape the bustle of the city centre and amble around gardens, ponds, souvenir shops and restaurants. Peaceful paths meander through the trees and carp glide through the waters of a small pond in the centre of the park.
For two weeks in late March/early April, when the park's many cherry trees come into bloom, the calm atmosphere of the park is shattered by hordes of revellers enjoying hanami (blossom-viewing). For those who don't mind crowds, this is a good place to observe the Japanese at their most uninhibited. It is best to arrive early and claim a good spot high on the eastern side of the park, from which point you can safely peer down on…
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Katsura Rikyū
This palace is considered to be one of the finest examples of Japanese traditional architecture. It was built in 1624 for the emperor's brother, Prince Toshihito. Every conceivable detail of the villa, the teahouses, the large pond with islets and the surrounding garden has been given meticulous attention.
Tours (around 40 minutes), in Japanese, commence at 10am, 11am, 2pm and 3pm. You should be there 20 minutes beforehand. An explanatory video is shown in the waiting room and a leaflet is provided in English. You must make advance reservations with the Imperial Household Agency. Visitors must be over 20 years of age.
To get to the villa from Kyoto Station, take bus 33 and…
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Urasenke Chadō Research Center
Anyone interested in tea ceremony should make their first stop the Urasenke Chadō Research Center. Urasenke is Japan’s largest tea school and hosts hundreds of students annually who come from branch schools worldwide to further their studies in ‘the way of tea’. The gallery (admission ¥800; 9.30am-4.30pm, closed Mon) located on the 1st and 2nd floors holds quarterly exhibitions on tea-related arts; call to see if there is a show being held during your stay. The entrance fee entitles you to a bowl of matcha and a sweet. The Konnichi-an library (431-6474; admission free; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, closed Sun & public holidays) has more than 50,000 books (about…
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Ninna-ji
This temple was built in 842 and is the head temple of the Omura branch of the Shingon school of Buddhism. The present temple buildings, including a five-storey pagoda, are from the 17th century. The extensive grounds are full of cherry trees that bloom in early April.
Admission to most of the grounds is free, but separate admission fees are charged for some of the temple's buildings, many of which are closed most of the year. To get there, take bus 59 from Keihan Sanjō Station and get off at the Omuro Ninna-ji stop. From Kyoto Station take bus 26.
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Yasaka-jinja
This colourful shrine is just down the hill from Maruyama-kōen. It's considered to be the guardian shrine of neighbouring Gion and is sometimes endearingly referred to as 'Gion-san'. This shrine is particularly popular as a spot for hatsu-mōde (the first shrine visit of the new year). If you don't mind a stampede, come here around midnight on New Year's Eve or over the next few days. Surviving the crush is proof that you're blessed by the gods! Yasaka-jinja also sponsors Kyoto's biggest festival, Gion Matsuri.
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Tōfuku-ji
Founded in 1236 by the priest Enni, Tōfuku-ji belongs to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. As this temple was intended to compare with Tōdai-ji and Kōfuku-ji in Nara, it was given a name combining characters from the names of each of these temples.
The present temple complex includes 24 subtemples; at one time there were 53. The huge San-mon is the oldest Zen main gate in Japan. The Hōjō (abbot's hall) was reconstructed in 1890. The gardens, laid out in 1938, are well worth a visit. The northern garden has stones and moss neatly arranged in a chequerboard pattern. From a viewing platform at the back of the gardens, you can observe the Tsūten-kyō (Bridge to Heaven),…
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Tōei Uzumasa Movie Village
In the Uzumasa area, Tōei Uzumasa Movie Village is a notorious tourist trap. It does, however, have some recreations of Edo-period street scenes that give a decent idea of what Kyoto must have looked like before the advent of concrete. The main conceit of the park is that real movies are actually filmed here. While this may occasionally be the case, more often than not this entails a bunch of bored flunkies being ordered around by an ersatz movie ‘director’ complete with megaphone and a vintage 1930s-era movie camera. This delights some tourists but left us a little less than convinced. Aside from this, there are displays relating to various aspects of Japanese movies and…
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