Nijō Jinya

A few minutes’ walk south of Nijō-jō, Nijō Jinya is an interesting attraction, although it’s not really geared to foreign visitors. This former merchant’s home was built in the mid-1600s and served as an inn for provincial feudal lords visiting the capital. What appears to be an average Edo-period mansion, however, is no ordinary dwelling. The house contains fire-resistant earthen walls and a warren of 24 rooms, and was ingeniously designed to protect the daimyō against possible surprise attacks. Here you’ll find hidden staircases, secret passageways and an array of counterespionage devices. The main room’s ceiling skylight is fitted with a trap door from where samurai could pounce on intruders, and sliding doors feature alternate panels of translucent paper to expose the shadows of eavesdroppers. One-hour tours are conducted several times a day in Japanese and advance reservations must be made. Those who don’t speak Japanese are asked to bring a Japanese-speaking guide.