Sights in Kyoto
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Fushimi-Inari-Taisha
With seemingly endless arcades of vermilion torii (shrine gates) spread across a thickly wooded mountain, this vast shrine complex is a world unto its own. It is, quite simply, one of the most impressive and memorable sights in all of Kyoto.
The shrine was dedicated to the gods of rice and sake by the Hata family in the 8th century. As the role of agriculture diminished, deities were enrolled to ensure prosperity in business. Nowadays, the shrine is one of Japan’s most popular, and is the head shrine for some 40,000 Inari shrines scattered the length and breadth of the country.
The entire complex, consisting of five shrines, sprawls across the wooded slopes of Inari-san…
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Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
If you want to spend some quality time with our simian cousins or entertain restless children, this park might fit the bill. Just be warned: it’s a steep climb up the hill to get to the monkeys. If it’s a hot day, you’re going to be drenched by the time you get to the spot where they gather. Though it is common to spot wild monkeys in the nearby mountains, here you can encounter them at a close distance and enjoy watching the playful creatures frolic about. It makes for an excellent photo opportunity, not only of the monkeys but also of the panoramic view over Kyoto. Refreshingly, it is the animals who are free to roam while the humans who feed them are caged in a box! Yo…
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Gion District
Gion is the famous entertainment and geisha quarter on the eastern bank of the Kamo-gawa. While Gion’s true origins were in teahouses catering to weary visitors to Yasaka-jinja, by the mid-18th century the area was Kyoto’s largest pleasure district. Despite the looming modern architecture, congested traffic and contemporary nightlife establishments that have cut a swathe through its historical beauty, there are still some places left in Gion for an enjoyable walk. It looks quite drab by day, but comes alive with people and lights in the evening. Hanami-kōji runs north to south and bisects Shijō-dōri. The southern section is lined with 17th-century traditional restaurant…
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Daitoku-ji
Daitoku-ji is a separate world within Kyoto – a world of Zen temples, perfectly raked gardens and wandering lanes. It is one of the most rewarding destinations in this part of the city, particularly for those with an interest in Japanese gardens. Daitoku-ji, the headquarters of the Rinzai Daitoku-ji school, contains an extensive complex of 24 subtemples – including Daisen-in, Kōtō-in, Obai-in, Ryōgen-in and Zuihō-in. If you want an intensive look at Zen culture, this is the place to visit. The eponymous Daitoku-ji is on the eastern side of the grounds. It was founded in 1319, burnt down in the next century and rebuilt in the 16th century. The San-mon gate (1589) h…
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Kyoto International Manga Museum
This brand new museum has a collection of some 300,000 manga (Japanese comic books). Set in an atmospheric building that used to house an elementary school, the museum is the perfect introduction to the art of manga. While most of the manga and the displays are, naturally, in Japanese, the collection of translated works is growing. In addition to the galleries that show both the historical development of manga and original artwork done in manga style, there are beginners’ workshops at weekends and opportunities to have your portrait drawn by manga artists. Visitors with children will appreciate the children’s library and the humorous traditional Japanese sliding picture s…
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Nishiki Market
Known as Nishiki Ichiba in Japanese, Nishiki Market is easily Kyoto’s greatest food market and one of the best shopping streets overall. This is the best place to see all the unusual ingredients that go into Kyoto cuisine. There are several spots to eat and drink here, as well as a few souvenir shops.
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Kiyomizu-dera
Along with Nijō-jō, Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji, Kiyomizu-dera is one of Kyoto’s most popular sights and is almost always swarming with Japanese people and foreign tourists. Fortunately, it’s a large complex and it can absorb a lot of visitors. It’s worth a visit for the views over the grounds and the city, and the fascinating features scattered around the main hall.
This temple was first built in 798 and devoted to Jūichi-men, an 11-headed Kannon. The present buildings – built under order of Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa shōgun – are reconstructions dating from 1633. As an affiliate of the Hossō school, which originated in Nara, the temple has survived the many intri…
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Nijō-jō
For those with an interest in Japan’s feudal past and an eye for magnificent interiors, Nijō-jō is a fascinating destination. Keep in mind, though, that the castle is on the itinerary of every foreign and Japanese tour group and it can be packed. If you’re after peace and quiet, try an early-morning or late-afternoon visit. Nijō-jō was built in 1603 as the official residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The ostentatious style was intended as a demonstration of Ieyasu’s prestige and to signal the demise of the emperor’s power. To safeguard against treachery, Ieyasu had the interior fitted with ‘nightingale’ floors (intruders were detected by the squeaking boards) and concealed cham…
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Hiei-zan & Enryaku-ji
A visit to 848m-high Hiei-zan and the vast Enryaku-ji complex is a good way to spend half a day hiking, poking around temples and enjoying the atmosphere of a key site in Japanese history. Enryaku-ji was founded in 788 by Saichō, also known as Dengyō-daishi, the priest who established the Tenzai school. This school did not receive imperial recognition until 823, after Saichō’s death; however, from the 8th century the temple grew in power. At its height, Enryaku-ji possessed some 3000 buildings and an army of thousands of sōhei (warrior monks). In 1571 Oda Nobunaga saw the temple’s power as a threat to his aims to unify the nation and he destroyed most of the buildin…
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Nanzen-ji
This temple is one of the most pleasant in Kyoto, with its expansive grounds (that can be entered for free) and numerous subtemples, including Nanzen-in, Tenju-an and Konchi-in.
Nanzen-ji began as a retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama but was dedicated as a Zen temple on his death in 1291. Civil war in the 15th century destroyed most of the temple; the present buildings date from the 17th century. It operates now as the headquarters of the Rinzai school.
At the entrance to the temple stands the San-mon gate (1628), its ceiling adorned with Tosa and Kanō school murals of birds and angels. Steps lead up to the 2nd storey (admission costs ¥300), which has a fine view over …
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Nishi Hongan-Ji
This temple makes for a nice change from the incessant crowds of Higashi Hongan-ji. As with its counterpart, Nishi Hongan-ji is an easy walk from the station and it’s free. The interior of the main hall here is both gaudy and sublime. Nishi Hongan-ji was originally built in 1272 in the Higashiyama Mountains by the priestess Kakushin, daughter of Shinran, who was founder of the Buddhist Jōdo Shin-shū school. The temple complex was relocated to its present site in 1591, on land provided by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (16th-century shōgun). By then, the Jōdo Shin-shū had accumulated immense power and the temple became its headquarters. Tokugawa Ieyasu sought to weaken the power of Jō…
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Kurama-dera
Located high on a thickly wooded mountain, Kurama-dera is one of the few temples in modern Japan that still manage to retain an air of real spirituality. This is a magical place that gains a lot of its power from its brilliant natural setting. The temple also has a fascinating history: in 770 the monk Gantei left Nara’s Toshōdai-ji in search of a wilderness sanctuary in which to meditate. Wandering in the hills north of Kyoto, he came across a white horse that led him to the valley known today as Kurama. After seeing a vision of the deity Bishamon-ten, guardian of the northern quarter of the Buddhist heaven, Gantei established Kurama-dera just below the peak of Kurama-yam…
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Higashi Hongan-Ji
A short walk north of Kyoto Station, this temple is the last word in all things grand and gaudy. Considering the proximity to the station, the free admission, the awesome structures and the dazzling interiors, this temple is an obvious spot to visit if you find yourself in the area. In 1602 when shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu engineered the rift in the Jōdo Shin-shū (True Pure Land) school of Buddhism, he founded this temple as a competitor to Nishi Hongan-ji. Rebuilt in 1895 after a series of fires destroyed all of the original structures, it is certainly monumental but less impressive artistically than its rival. The temple is now the headquarters of the Ōtani branch of Jōdo…
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Jakkō-in
Jakkō-in sits on the opposite side of Ōhara from the more famous Sanzen-in. It’s reached by a very pleasant walk through a quaint ‘old Japan’ village. It’s a relatively small temple that can’t compete with the beauty of its popular neighbour, but it does make an interesting end point to a fine walk in the country. The history of the temple is exceedingly tragic. The actual founding date of the temple is subject to some debate (it’s thought to be somewhere between the 6th and 11th centuries), but it acquired fame as the temple that harboured Kenrei Mon-in, a lady of the Taira clan. In 1185 the Taira were soundly defeated in a sea battle against the Minamoto clan at Dan-n…
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Daigo-ji
Daigo-ji was founded in 874 by Shobo, who gave it the name Daigo (meaning ‘the ultimate essence of milk’). This refers to the five periods of Buddha’s teaching, which were compared to the five forms of milk prepared in India – the highest form is called daigo in Japanese. The temple was expanded into a vast complex on two levels, Shimo Daigo (lower) and Kami Daigo (upper). Kami Daigo is atop Daigo-yama, behind the temple. During the 15th century those buildings on the lower level were destroyed, with the sole exception of the five-storey pagoda. Built in 951, this pagoda is treasured as the oldest of its kind in Japan and is the oldest existing building in Kyoto. …
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Shisen-dō
Most travellers to Kyoto don’t venture beyond Ginkaku-ji when exploring the northern reaches of Higashiyama, but there are several other worthwhile temples in this part of town, including Shisen-dō and Manshu-in. These two temples make a nice combination and are usually ignored by the masses who descend on Kyoto’s more popular temples. Note that it’s too far to walk here from Ginkaku-ji; consider a taxi or the bus. With a name meaning ‘house of poet-hermits’, Shisen-dō was built in 1641 by Ishikawa Jōzan, a scholar of Chinese classics and a landscape architect who wanted a place to retire to. Formerly a samurai, Jōzan abandoned his warrior status after a rift with Toku…
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Sanjūsangen-dō
The sheer number of Buddhist images at this temple make it among the more interesting and visually arresting sights in Kyoto. It makes a logical starting point to a full-day exploration of Southern Higashiyama. The original temple, called Rengeō-in, was built in 1164 at the request of the retired emperor Go-shirakawa. After it burnt to the ground in 1249, a faithful copy was constructed in 1266. The temple’s name refers to the 33 sanjūsan (bays) between the pillars of this long, narrow building. The building houses 1001 wooden statues of Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy); the chief image, the 1000-armed Senjū-Kannon, was carved by the celebrated sculptor Tankei i…
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Ginkaku-ji
With a sublime wooden hall overlooking an impressive stroll garden, Ginkaku-ji is easily one of Kyoto’s most beautiful sights. Unfortunately, the beauty of the place guarantees that it is almost always swamped with bus loads of visitors from all over the world. We recommend visiting just after it opens, ideally on a weekday morning. Failing that, try coming just before it closes, as the setting sun casts its golden light over the hills above the temple.
Also known as Jishō-ji, the temple belongs to the Shōkoku-ji sect of the Rinzai school of Zen. In 1482 shōgun Ashikaga Yoshimasa constructed a villa here, which he used as a genteel retreat from the turmoil of civil war.…
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Kyoto Imperial Palace
The Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho) is the heart of Kyoto, both spatially and metaphorically. It was built in 794 and has undergone numerous rebirths after destruction by fires. The present building, on a different site and smaller than the original, was constructed in 1855. Ceremonies related to the enthronement of a new emperor and other state functions are still held here. The Shinsen-den (Ceremonial Hall) is an outstanding, single-storey structure thatched with a cypress-bark roof. Covered walkways connect it to the surrounding buildings. From outside you can see the takamikura (throne) where the emperor sat on formal occasions. It is covered with a silk canopy an…
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Sumiya Pleasure House
Shimabara, a district northwest of Kyoto Station, was Kyoto’s original pleasure quarters. At its peak during the Edo period (1600–1867) the area flourished, with more than 20 enormous ageya – magnificent banquet halls where artists, writers and statesmen gathered in a ‘floating world’ ambience of conversation, art and fornication. Geisha were often sent from their okiya (living quarters) to entertain patrons at these restaurant-cum-brothels. By the start of the Meiji period, however, such activities had drifted north to the Gion district and Shimabara had lost its prominence. Though the traditional air of the district has dissipated, a few old structures remain.…
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Byōdō-in
If you happen to have a ¥10 coin in your pocket, dig it out now and have a look at it. The building depicted on the coin is the main hall of this lovely temple in the centre of Uji. Overlooking a serene pond, the hall is one of the loveliest Buddhist structures in Japan. This temple was converted from a Fujiwara villa into a Buddhist temple in 1052. The Hōō-dō (Phoenix hall), the main hall of the temple, was built in 1053 and is the only original building remaining. The phoenix used to be a popular mythical bird in China and was revered by the Japanese as a protector of Buddha. The architecture of the building resembles the shape of the bird and there are two bronze p…
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Ryōan-ji
You’ve probably seen a picture of the rock garden here – it’s one of the symbols of Kyoto and one of Japan’s better-known sights. There is no doubt that it’s a mesmerising and attractive sight, but it’s hard to enjoy amid the mobs who come to check it off their ‘must-see list’. An early-morning visit on a weekday is probably your best hope of seeing the garden under contemplative conditions. If you go when it’s crowded, you’ll find the less-famous garden around the corner of the stone garden to be a nice escape. This temple belongs to the Rinzai school and was founded in 1450. The main attraction is the garden, an oblong of sand with an austere collection of 15 carefully …
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Sanzen-in
Famed for its autumn foliage, hydrangea garden and stunning Buddha images, this temple is deservedly popular with foreign and domestic tourists alike. Founded in 784 by the priest Saichō, Sanzen-in belongs to the Tendai school. Saichō, considered one of the great patriarchs of Buddhism in Japan, also founded Enryaku-ji. The temple’s garden, Yūsei-en, is one of the most photographed sights in Japan, and rightly so. Take some time to sit on the steps of the Shin-den hall and admire the garden’s beauty. Then head off to see Ōjō-gokuraku-in (Temple of Rebirth in Paradise), the hall in which stands the impressive Amitabha trinity, a large Amida image flanked by attendants…
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Kinkaku-ji
Second only to Mt Fuji as Japan’s most famous sight, this temple is famous for its dazzling gold-covered main hall, which floats like an apparition over its surrounding pond. It’s a stunning vision and most people find it to their liking, although some prefer the more subdued appearance of its counterpart, Ginkaku-ji. Needless to say, the temple receives masses of visitors; as usual, we recommend an early-morning or late-afternoon visit. Also known as Rokuon-ji, Kinkaku-ji belongs to the Shōkokuji school of Buddhism. The original building was constructed in 1397 as a retirement villa for shōgun Ashikaga Yoshi-mitsu. His son, complying with his father’s wishes, convert…
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Tō-ji
One of the main sights south of Kyoto Station, Tō-ji is an appealing complex of halls and a fantastic pagoda that makes a fine backdrop for the monthly flea market held on the grounds. This temple was established in 794 by imperial decree to protect the city. In 823 the emperor handed it over to Kūkai (known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi), the founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism. Many of the temple buildings were destroyed by fire or fighting during the 15th century, and most of the remaining buildings were destroyed in the Momoyama period. The Nandai-mon (Main Gate) was moved here in 1894 from Sanjūsangen-dō in Southern Higashiyama. The Kōdō (Lecture Hall) date…
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