Nanzen-Ji

Lonely Planet review

This temple is one of the most pleasant in Kyoto, with its expansive grounds (that can be entered for free) and numerous subtemples, including Nanzen-in, Tenju-an and Konchi-in.

Nanzen-ji began as a retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama but was dedicated as a Zen temple on his death in 1291. Civil war in the 15th century destroyed most of the temple; the present buildings date from the 17th century. It operates now as the headquarters of the Rinzai school.

At the entrance to the temple stands the San-mon gate (1628), its ceiling adorned with Tosa and Kanō school murals of birds and angels. Steps lead up to the 2nd storey (there's an extra admission cost), which has a fine view over the city. Beyond the San-mon is the Honden (main hall), which contains the main Buddha figures of the temple.

Beyond the Honden, at the base of the mountains, the Hōjō hall has impressive screens painted with a vivid depiction of tigers. While you're in the Hōjō, you can enjoy a cup of tea as you sit on tatami mats gazing at a small waterfall; ask at the reception desk. Within the precincts of the same building, the Leaping Tiger Garden is a classic Zen garden well worth a look.

Perhaps the best part of Nanzen-ji is overlooked by most visitors: Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in, a small shrine hidden in a forested hollow behind the main precinct. To get here, walk up to the red-brick aqueduct in front of Nanzen-in. Follow the road that runs parallel to the aqueduct up into the hills, past Kōtoku-an on your left; be sure to stop in at this temple on your way. Continue up the steps into the woods until you reach a waterfall in a beautiful mountain glen. It's here at Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in that pilgrims pray while standing under the falls, sometimes in the dead of winter. Hiking trails lead off in all directions from this point; by going due north for 5km (about two hours' walk) you'll arrive at the top of Daimonji-yama; go east and you'll get to the town of Yamashina (also about two hours).