Higashi Hongan-Ji

Lonely Planet review

A short walk north of Kyoto Station, this temple is the last word in all things grand and gaudy. Considering the proximity to the station, the free admission, the awesome structures and the dazzling interiors, this temple is an obvious spot to visit if you find yourself in the area.

In 1602 when shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu engineered the rift in the Jōdo Shin-shū (True Pure Land) school of Buddhism, he founded this temple as a competitor to Nishi Hongan-ji.

Rebuilt in 1895 after a series of fires destroyed all of the original structures, it is certainly monumental but less impressive artistically than its rival. The temple is now the headquarters of the Ōtani branch of Jōdo Shin-shū.

The Taishidō-mon gate stands 27m high and features giant doors made out of a single slab of wood. Wade through the sea of pigeons to the Hondō (Main Hall) - place your shoes in one of the plastic bags and carry them with you so you can exit from the neighbouring building. This hall enshrines a 13th-century statue of Amida Nyorai (Buddha of the Western Paradise).

In the corridor between the two main buildings, you'll find a curious item encased in glass: a tremendous coil of rope made from human hair. Following the destruction of the temple in the 1880s, an eager group of female temple devotees donated their locks to make the ropes that hauled the massive timbers used for reconstruction.

The enormous Taishi-dō (Founder's Hall) is one of the world's largest wooden structures, standing 38m high, 76m long and 58m wide. The centrepiece is a self-carved likeness of Jōdo Shin-shū founder Shinran. Unfortunately, this building is presently under construction and will be 'under wraps' until December 2008.

It only takes a few minutes to wander through the buildings; ask at the information office just inside the main gate for an English information leaflet.