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Tsuruhashi
Kyoto rāmen fans make the trek to this unprepossessing little joint for its unique duck-flavoured soup, a serious rarity in Japan. For lunch, big eaters will enjoy the B set, which includes duck-soup rāmen, rice and karaage (pieces of deep-fried chicken). Look for the yellow awning and the red-and-yellow sign.
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Uontana
This upscale izakaya is a good spot to try a range of sake and elegantly presented Japanese fare (sashimi, fried dishes, salads). The design is sleek modern and more Tokyo than Kyoto. There is an English menu and a tiny lantern with English writing out the front.
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Uosue
Uosue is one the best value Japanese places in town. It's a traditional Kyoto-style restaurant with a simple, clean interior and friendly proprietors. For lunch, try the wonderful nijū bentō for around ¥1000 . At dinner, their omakase ryōri kōsu is a great way to sample kaiseki ryōri without breaking the bank: it costs about ¥3800 . It's next to a tiny shrine - keep an eye out for the sake barrels out front.
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Veggie Table
Right near one of the busiest corners in the Kiyamachi-Sanjō entertainment/dining district, this clean, well-lit new restaurant specialises in 'hot salad' sets (steamed vegetables and a variety of side dishes, including brown rice). It's a healthy addition to a neighbourhood that has, up until now, focused more on rāmen and booze. It has an English sign on the street; otherwise, look for the glass front.
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Wabiya Korekidō
This slick restaurant on Gion's atmospheric Hanami-kōji serves what, for lack of a better term, we will call 'haute yakitori' . It's the nicest yakitori we've had, and the setting is a lot more elegant than your typical yakitori joint. At dinner, the shunsaiwabiya kōsu (full chicken course; around ¥3675 ) is excellent. At lunch, choose from one of the meals on the picture menu outside. The name of the place is written in English in tiny letters on the black-and-white sign.
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Yagura
Across from Minami-za kabuki theatre, this noodle specialist somehow reminds us of an American diner, with a row of wooden booths and mamas running the show. We recommend the nishin soba (around 1000 ). Yagura is located between a rāmen joint and a Japanese gift shop - look for the bowls of noodles in the window.
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Yak & Yeti
This tiny joint serves more than just the dal bhaat (rice and lentil curry) that most people associate with Nepalese cuisine. In fact, the fare (good curries and tasty nan bread) is probably closer to Indian. There is counter seating but we like to sit on the comfortable cushions here. English menus are available. The staff is pretty chuffed about being listed in our guides and has posted a picture of an old edition out front - should be no trouble finding it.
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Yatai
This yatai (tent) pops up along Imadegawa-dōri every evening and serves a variety of food to accompany beer and sake, such as yakitori, oden and meatballs. It's fun but don't expect English to be spoken (pointing at what you want is the easiest way to go).
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Yoshida-Ya
This quaint and friendly little teishoku-ya (set-meal restaurant) is the perfect place to grab a simple lunch while in Arashiyama. All the standard teishoku favourites are on offer, including things such as oyakodon (egg and chicken over a bowl of rice) for around ¥1000 . You can also cool off here with a refreshing uji kintoki for around ¥600 . There is no English sign; the restaurant is the first place south of the station and it has a rustic front.
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Yoshikawa
For superb tempura, head for Yoshikawa. It offers fancy table seating but it's much more interesting (and cheaper) to sit and eat around the small counter and observe the chefs at work. Look for the English sign reading 'Yoshikawa Inn'; the restaurant entrance is next door.
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Yōshūji
Yōshūji serves superb shōjin ryōri in a delightful old Japanese farmhouse with an irori (open hearth). The house special, a sumptuous selection of vegetarian dishes served in red lacquered bowls, is called kurama-yama shōn zen (around ¥2500 ). If you're just wanting a quick bite, try the uzu-soba ( soba topped with mountain vegetables; around ¥1050 ). It's halfway up the steps leading to the main gate of Kurama-dera ; look for the orange lanterns out the front.
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Yudōfu Sagano
This is a popular place to sample yudōfu . It's fairly casual with a spacious dining room. You can usually eat here without having to wait and there 's both indoor and outdoor seating. Look for the old cartwheels outside.
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Zac Baran
Near the Kyoto Handicraft Centre, this is a good spot for a light meal or a drink. It serves a variety of spaghetti dishes as well as a good lunch special. Look for the picture of the Freak Brothers near the downstairs entrance. If you fancy dessert when you're done, step upstairs to the Second House Cake Works.
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Zu Zu
This Pontochō izakaya is a fun place to eat. The best bet when ordering is to ask the waiter for a recommendation. The fare is sort of nouveau-Japanese, with menu items such as shrimp with tofu and chicken with plum sauce. Look for the white stucco exterior and black bars on the windows.
