Japanese restaurants in Kyoto
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Uosue
Uosue is one of the best value Japanese places in town. It’s a traditional Kyoto-style restaurant with a clean interior and friendly proprietors. For lunch, try the wonderful nijū bentō for ¥1000. At dinner, the omakase ryōri kōsu is a great way to sample kaiseki ryōri without breaking the bank: it costs just ¥3800. It’s next to a tiny shrine – keep an eye out for the sake barrels out the front.
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Honyaradō
This woodsy place overlooking the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park is an institution. It was something of a gathering spot for Kyoto’s countercultural elite during the hippy days. It has the lived-in feeling of an eccentric friend’s house, with stacks of books and magazines and interesting decorations. The lunch deal (a daily stew set) is good value. Surprisingly, considering the ambience, there aren’t many veggie options. It’s a good place to relax over coffee.
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Aunbo
Aunbo serves elegant, creative Japanese cooking in traditional Gion surroundings. The last time we were here we started with sublime sashimi, moved on to fried yuba pockets and went from there. We recommend asking for the set and leaving the difficult decisions to the master. Aunbo takes reservations in the evening. There is an English menu but no English sign; look for the traditional Japanese façade.
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Fujino-Ya
This is one of the easiest places for non-Japanese to enter on Pontochō, a street where many of the other restaurants turn down even unfamiliar Japanese diners. Here you can feast on tempura, okonomiyaki, yaki-soba and kushikatsu in tatami rooms overlooking the Kamo-gawa.
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Mikatzuki
There are several shokudō on the main drag in Arashiyama and this is one of them. The thing that distinguishes this place is its English menu and the fact that it is a little more spacious than the others. Dishes include the typical shokudō noodle and rice classics. The tempura teishoku (¥1600) gives value for money and should power you through a few hours of Arashiyama sightseeing. The sign is in Japanese; it’s black-and-white and one of the Japanese characters looks like a bullseye.
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Azami
Located on the ground floor of the Museum of Kyoto, on the northeast side of the building, this chicken specialist serves a wide variety of excellent dishes in a fairly traditional Japanese atmosphere. Choices range from yakitori to tsukune (chicken meatballs) to a healthy chicken salad. If you don’t mind sitting on tatami, downstairs rooms are highly recommended.
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Iimura
Try this classic little restaurant for its ever-changing set lunch – usually simple Japanese home-style cooking. Dishes might include a bit of fish or meat and the usual accompaniments of rice, miso soup and pickles. It’s in a traditional Japanese house set back a bit from the street, alongside a new five-storey building (look for the black-and-white sign).
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Shirukō
For a light meal, Shirukō has been serving simple Kyoto obanzai-ryōri since 1932. The restaurant features more than 10 varieties of miso soup, and the rikyū bentō (mixed lunch box; ¥2600) is a bona fide work of art. Shirukō is down a somewhat seedy pedestrian alley near Shijō-Kawaramachi crossing; look for the bamboo out the front.
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Okariba
For an experience you won’t soon forget, try Okariba, near Hotel Heian no Mori Kyoto. If it crawls, walks or swims, it’s probably on the menu. The inoshishi (wild boar) barbecue is a good start. Those who don’t eat meat can try the fresh ayu (Japanese trout). Look for the sign of the hunting pig out the front.
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Ganko Nijō-en
This is an upscale branch of the Ganko Zushi chain that serves sushi and simple kaiseki sets. There’s a picture menu and you can stroll in the stunning garden before or after your meal. It’s near the Nijō-Kiyamachi crossing; you can’t miss the grand entrance or the food models in the glass window.
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Kushi Hachi
Kushi Hachi, part of a popular Kyoto chain, is a fun spot to sample kushikatsu, a fried dish that is well suited to Western tastes. We enjoy sitting at the counter and watching as the frenetic chefs work the grills and deep-fryers. With a picture/English menu, ordering is a snap. Look for the garish lantern out the front.
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Hirobun
This is a good place to sample riverside or 'above-river' dining in Kibune. There's a friendly crew of ladies here who run the show and the food is quite good. Note that it does not accept solo diners for kaiseki courses (but you can have noodles). Look for the black-and-white sign and the lantern. Reserve for dinner.
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Kōsendō-Sumi
For a pleasant lunch downtown, try this unpretentious little restaurant located in an old Japanese house. The daily lunch special, which is usually simple and healthy Japanese fare, is always displayed out the front for your inspection. It’s near the Museum of Kyoto, next to a small parking lot.
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Mukade-Ya
Mukade-ya is an atmospheric restaurant located in an exquisite machiya west of Karasuma-dōri. For lunch try the special bentō: two rounds (five small dishes each) of delectable obanzai (Kyoto-style home cooking) fare. Kaiseki courses start at ¥5000.
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Kameyama-Ya
We love this semi-outdoor restaurant on the banks of the Hozu-gawa. The service can be gruff, the food is only pretty good, but the location is impossible to beat. Dishes include tempura over rice and noodles. There is no English sign but there are a couple of vending machines near the entrance.
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