Things to do in Kōbe
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Modernark Pharm
This interesting little restaurant serves tasty sets of Japanese and Western dishes, including burritos and rice dishes. There are some veggie choices here. Look for the plants.
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Tezuka Osamu Memorial Museum
While it's a bit of a hike from downtown Kōbe, the Tezuka Osamu Memorial Museum is a must for serious fans of Japanese manga (comic books). Located in the town of Takarazuka (a short train ride from Kōbe's Sannomiya Station), it celebrates the life and work of Tezuka Osamu, the father of Japanese animation and manga, and a man of such legendary output that his last words were rumoured to be 'I'm begging you, let me work!'.
Tezuka's creations include Tetsuwan Atomu (Astro Boy) and Black Jack and Rion Kōtei (Jungle Emperor Leo, which Disney adapted to make the film The Lion King). The museum details Tezuka's life and has several of his childhood drawings and diagrams…
reviewed
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Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum
The Nada-ku area of Kōbe is one of Japan's major sake-brewing centres and the dominant brewer here is the famous Hakutsuru company. The Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum provides a fascinating look into traditional sake-making methods. There is not much in the way of English explanations, but the free English pamphlet should get you started. Free sake tasting is possible after you tour the facilities (ask at the counter).
Take the Hanshin line eight stops east from Sannomiya (¥180, seven minutes if you switch train at Mikage, 15 minutes if you take the Hanshin honsen train; express trains do not stop) and get off at Hanshin Sumiyoshi Station. Exit the station, walk south to…
reviewed
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Daruma
This quaint little mom-and-pop yakitori restaurant serves simple skewers of the usual yakitori favourites and a very interesting Japan Alps dish known as hōba miso, which is a type of miso cooked over a leaf on a hibachi in front of you. There is no English menu, but it's easy to point at what you want. You'll be asked whether you want shio-yaki (cooked with salt) or tare-yaki (cooked with yakitori sauce). There is an English sign (it's 10m in from Higashimon-gai).
To get there by subway, take Sannomiya station on the JR Kōbe line, Hankyū Kōbe line or Hanshin Main Line.
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Wakkoku
If you're a carnivore, you'll want to try a bit of Kōbe's famous beef, and you'll find it cheaper and better here than overseas. Our favourite Kōbe beef place is this relatively approachable spot below the Crowne Plaza Kōbe. The steaks here are among the best we've had anywhere. We particularly like the way they 'introduce' your steak to you before they prepare it.
It's on the 3rd floor of the Avenue shopping centre at the base of the hotel, just outside the south elevator bank. There is no English sign - look for the black and grey marble exterior.
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Mon
This Kōbe institution serves a peculiar Japanese speciality known as yōshoku: Japanese versions of Western food like steaks and pork cutlets. It's pretty much what the Japanese imagined Westerners ate morning, noon and night when they first started showing up in those black ships. If you're in the mood for something heavier than noodles and rice, this might satisfy. The sign out front has a hilarious picture of two 'barbarians' who look like they could really go for a nice steak.
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Kōbe City Museum
This museum has a collection of so-called namban (literally 'southern barbarian') art and occasional special exhibits. Namban art is a school of painting that developed under the influence of early Jesuit missionaries in Japan, who taught Western painting techniques to Japanese students. The entrance is on the building's east side.
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Kintoki
This atmospheric old shokudō serves the cheapest food in the city. You can order standard noodle and rice dishes from the menu (plain soba or udon noodles are ¥250) or choose from a variety of dishes laid out on the counter. Look for the blue-and-white awning about 20m north of the shopping street arcade.
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Ganso Gyōza-en
This is the best spot in Nankinmachi for gyōza dumplings, either fried (yaki gyōza) or steamed (sui gyōza). Use the vinegar, soy sauce and miso on the table to make a dipping sauce. It's next to a small parking lot – look for the red-and-white awning and English sign.
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Kōbe Fashion Museum
An artificial island, the main attraction here is the Kōbe Fashion Museum. The museum's collection of mostly foreign fashion is not quite up to the dramatic building in which it's housed but it's worth a look if you're interested in fashion. To reach the museum, take the Rokkō Liner monorail from JR Sumiyoshi (four stops east of Sannomiya) and get off at the Island Centre stop.
reviewed
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Okagawa
Not far from Kōbe City Hall, this fine tempura specialist is an oasis of calm, clean lines and good service. Hard to spot, it’s at the top of a flight of steps above a place called Daiichi (the stairs are on the left – look for the giant black spoon). There is a small English sign on street level and English menus inside.
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Toritetsu
Almost opposite the Hotel Area One Kōbe on Higashimon-gai, this bustling yakitori restaurant is a good place to eat, drink and watch the chefs labour over their grills. The sign says 'yakitori' in English and there is some English on the menu.
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Shokutakuya
Near Kōbe City Hall, this simple basement izakaya/restaurant serves filling sets of typical Japanese favourites like the tonkatsu gozen (fried pork fillet set). There's a picture menu and a small English sign on street level (it's at the corner).
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Tanoshiya
This casual spot serves creative and fun food that might be termed 'nouvelle Japonaise'. This might include seared sashimi, skewers of chicken and assorted nibbles on the side. The chef speaks a bit of English. Look for the bamboo sign across from a diving school.
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Furuya
We can’t quite figure this place out: it’s a gyōza specialist decorated with skiing, snowboard and The Sopranos memorabilia. Above the restaurant look for a sign in English that reads ‘Original Gyoza Restaurant’.
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Shin-Kōbe Cable Car
The Shin-Kōbe Cable Car leaves from behind the Crowne Plaza Kōbe hotel near Shin-Kōbe station and ascends to a mountain ridge 400m above the city. The views from the top over Kōbe and the bay are particularly pretty after sunset.
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Nunobiki Hābu-kōen
The Shin-Kōbe cable car leaves from behind the Crowne Plaza Kōbe hotel near Shin-Kōbe Station and ascends to a mountain ridge 400m above the city. The views from the top over Kōbe and the bay are particularly pretty after sunset. The complex of gardens, restaurants and shops below the top station is known as the Nunobiki Hābu-kōen. Note that you can easily walk down to the bottom station from the Herb Garden in about 30 minutes.
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Mikami
This is a friendly spot for good-value lunch and dinner sets of standard Japanese fare. Noodle dishes are available from ¥500 and teishoku (set meal) from ¥1000. Look for the large doghouse outside and a small English sign.
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Nailey's Café
This hip little cafe serves espresso, light lunches and dinners. The menu here is Europe-influenced and includes such things as pizza, pasta and salads. This is a good spot for an evening drink.
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Upwards
This fashionable eatery in Kitano serves pasta, sandwiches and salads in an airy, open space. It’s another good spot for a drink in the evening. There’s an English sign.
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Wakkoqu
A more elegant spot to try Kōbe beef, on the 3rd floor of the Oriental Avenue shopping centre (アベニュー) at the base of the Crowne Plaza Kōbe hotel, just outside the elevator bank on the south side. The name 'Wakkoqu' is written in English on the menu displayed outside (and the menu is partially translated into English).
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Sona Rupa
We like this small Indian restaurant for its crispy nan bread, tasty curries and tranquil atmosphere. It's on the 3rd floor, with a sign on street level.
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Kōbe Maritime Museum
The Kōbe Maritime Museum has an extensive collection of high-quality model ships and displays with some English explanations.
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New Munchen Club
A decent German-style pub that draws its share of foreign residents. It’s close to Daimaru department store.
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Wantage Books
Near Shin-Kōbe, Wantage Books is a used book specialist. Also houses office of Kansai Time Out magazine.
reviewed