Things to do in Kii Hantō
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Oku-no-in
Any Buddhist worth their salt in Japan has had their remains, or just a lock or two of hair, interred in this cemetery/temple complex to ensure pole position when Miroku Buddha comes to earth.
The best way to approach Oku-no-in is to walk or take the bus east to Ichi-no-hashi-mae bus stop. From here you cross the bridge, Ichi-no-hashi (一の橋), and enter the cemetery grounds along a winding, cobbled path lined by tall cedar trees and thousands of tombs. As the trees close in and the mist swirls, the atmosphere can be enchanting, especially as night falls.
At the northern end of the graveyard, you will find the Tōrō-dō (燈籠堂; Lantern Hall), which is the main building of…
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Kongōbu-ji
This is the headquarters of the Shingon school and the residence of Kōya-san's abbot. The present structure dates from the 19th century and is definitely worth a visit.
The main hall's Ohiro-ma room has ornate screens painted by Kanō Tanyu in the 16th century. The rock garden is interesting for the sheer number of rocks used in its composition, giving the effect of a throng of petrified worshippers eagerly listening to a monk's sermon.
Admission includes tea and rice cakes served beside the stone garden.
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Garan
In this temple complex of several halls and pagodas, the most important buildings are the Dai-tō (大塔; Great Pagoda) and Kondō (金堂; Main Hall). The Dai-tō, rebuilt in 1934 after a fire, is said to be the centre of the lotus-flower mandala formed by the eight mountains around Kōya-san. It's well worth entering the Dai-tō to see the Dainichi-nyōrai (Cosmic Buddha) and his four attendant Buddhas. It's been repainted recently and is an awesome sight. The nearby Sai-tō (西塔; Western Pagoda) was most recently rebuilt in 1834 and is more subdued.
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Koyasan Interpreter Guide Club
This club offers four-hour private tours of Kōya-san for around ¥5000 per group for up to five people. It also offers regularly scheduled tours on Wednesday from April to September for around ¥1000 per person. The morning tour meets at Ichi-no-hashi at 08:30 and lasts 2½ hours and covers Oku-no-in. The afternoon tour meets at Kongogu-ji at 13:00, 1½ hours, and covers Kongobu-ji and the Garan.
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Tokugawa Mausoleum
Built in 1643, the Tokugawa Mausoleum consists of two adjoining structures that serve as the mausoleums of Tokugawa Ieyasu (on the right) and Tokugawa Hidetada (on the left), the first and second Tokugawa shōguns, respectively. They are ornately decorated, as with most structures associated with the Tokugawa shōguns. The mausoleum is not far from the Namikiri-fudō-mae bus stop (波切不動前バス亭).
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Maruman
This simple shokudō is a good spot for lunch (opening hours are irregular, though it's usually closed on Wednesday). All the standard lunch items are represented by plastic food models in the window; katsu- don (fried pork cutlet over rice) is ¥820. It's just west of the tourist office on the main street – look for the food models in the window. If this is full or doesn't suit, Nankai Shokudō next door is similar.
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Hanabishi Honten
If you fancy something a little nicer than a shokudō, you could try this slightly overpriced restaurant. At lunch, the sankozen set (a variety of vegetarian dishes, around ¥2100) is a good choice. Look for the grey façade and the food models in the window (which will also help ordering, if necessary).
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Treasure Museum
The Treasure Museum has a compact display of Buddhist works of art, all collected in Kōya-san. There are some very fine statues, painted scrolls and mandalas. Enter 30 minutes before closing.
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Shirasuna-yu
An open-air onsen off the boardwalk in the middle of Shirara-hama. You can soak here and then dash into the ocean to cool off – not a bad way to spend an afternoon.
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Shirara-yu
A pleasant bath right on the north end of Shirara-hama (the main beach).
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Shirara-hama
Shirara-hama, the town's main beach, is famous for its white sand. If it reminds you of Australia, don't be surprised – the town had to import sand from Down Under after the original stuff washed away. This place is packed during July and August, but in the low season it can actually be quite pleasant. The beach is hard to miss, as it dominates the western side of town.
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Sakino-yu Onsen
A fantastic bath built on a rocky point with great views of the Pacific Ocean (and you can climb down the rocks to cool off if the waves aren't too big). Come early in the day to beat the crowds. It's 1km south of the main beach; walk along the seafront road and look for the point below the big Hotel Seymor.
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Murono-yu
A simple onsen in front of Shirahama post office, on the way to the Sakino-yu Onsen.
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Kiraku
There is nothing fancy about this friendly little shokudō that serves standard teishoku for around ¥1200. There is a limited picture menu to help with ordering. It's about 5m in from Miyuki-dōri, on the beach side, close to a coin laundry (look for the plants out the front).
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