Things to do in Hokkaidō
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Yasai Bar Miruya
Tiny and cheerful, with veggie-inspired specials often paired with local sakes or shōchūs (distilled spirits). The sweet, energetic hostess proudly produces a well-thumbed Japanese-English dictionary and will pass it around for anyone to share - but plan on practicing your Japanese. Get off the tram at Uoichiba-dōri and continue for two blocks, looking on the right for the pastel yellow sign. If you reach the next tram stop you've gone too far.
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Hiking
Most people come here to hike, whether it's the eight-hour version or some of the tamer three-hour counterparts. (Some people may even wish to hire a scooter or motorcycle) Rebun-tō is a naturalist's dream: fields of over 300 species of wildflower explode from May through to August; the terrain is varied and each walking track is unique; and the beaches harbour all sorts of cool finds, from interesting (and edible!) marine animals to semiprecious stones.
When hiking it's a good idea to take a bus to the northern tip of the island, Cape Sukoton, and hike your way back past breathtaking cliffside vistas, fields of flowers and dwarf bamboo, thick forests and tiny fishing vi…
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Hiking on Rishiri-zan
A near-perfect cinder cone rising like a miniature Mt Fuji from the surrounding sea, Rishiri-zan (1721m) provides numerous hiking opportunities and stunning scenery. If you're feeling energetic and have good footwear you can hike to the summit in a day. The two most reliable hiking tracks to the summit start at Oshidomari and Kutsugata (about 3km from town). A road encircles the island and a limited bus service links the small fishing villages on the way.
This service runs to the start of each track; otherwise walk (about an hour), hitch, take a taxi or ask your lodgings if they can drop you off. Prepare properly for a mountain hike and pay particular attention to the sea…
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Sapporo Beer-En
A museum and beer garden, Sapporo Beer-En is located in the original Sapporo brewery. Two tour options are possible: visitors on the short tour (30 minutes) get a takeaway goody bag with a can of beer per person and various other items; those wanting more action should take the 50-minute option, which includes a 20-minute all-you-can-drink afterwards.
The adjoining beer garden has food, a variety of beverages and serves the local grilled lamb speciality, jingus kān, which has become a popular Sapporo dish.
To get here, take the Tōhō subway to the Higashi-Kuyakusho-mae stop and take Exit 4. Head south along Higashi-Nana-Chōme-dōri to N8E8 (about 10 minutes). The large bri…
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Hakodate-yama
This small mountain (334m) offers a memorable view of Hakodate, especially at night when the twinkling city lights contrast the dark waters. A ropeway whisks you to the top in a few minutes.
A 10-minute walk from the summit is a car park. At its far end there is an overgrown path that leads to moss-covered walls and buttresses, the ruins of an old fort, Hakodateyama Yōsai. It's refreshingly deserted, and you can happily clamber around, Indiana Jones–style, among ferns with fronds the size of palm leaves.
Take tram 2 or 5 to the Jūjigai stop, and walk a few minutes uphill to the ropeway platform. Alternatively, a summit-bound bus (¥360, 30 minutes) leaves directly from th…
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Hokkaidō Brewery
Diehard beer fans will want to take the 40-minute train ride out to this current brewing and bottling facility, This mammoth production plant seems more like something out of a James Bond movie than a place where beer is made: technicians in white lab coats peer into test tubes; immaculate stainless-steel tanks are covered with computerised gauges and dials; and video cameras monitor the bottles as they whizz by.
The tour is self-guided and English is minimal, but you'll be rewarded with a refreshing 20 minutes to tipple at the end. Take the JR Chitose line towards the airport and get off at the Sapporo Beer Teien Station. Head away from the tracks towards the giant white…
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Clock Tower
A famous Sapporo landmark, the clocktower is about a 10-minute walk from the JR Sapporo Station or a three-minute walk from Ōdōri Station. Enter by 17:00. Visitors can look at some clocks and get a brief history of the building, which was built in 1878 and (supposedly) has never missed tolling the hour for 120 years.
It's also known as one of Japan's top three gakkari (disappointing) spots, mainly because the brochure photos often remove the urban metropolis that dwarfs the small building. You might walk right by before realising it's right in front of you.
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Rāmen Yokochō
This famous alleyway in the Susukino entertainment district is crammed with dozens of rāmen shops, and you'll most likely wind up here in a noble attempt to vanquish your hangover. Anyone with a yen for rāmen shouldn't miss it, but it can be difficult to find. Take the Nanboku line to Susukino and walk south to the first crossroad. Turn left (east); Rāmen Yokochō is halfway down on the right. If you can't find it just ask – it's one place people will know. Hours vary for different shops, though prices are consistently cheap, with a bowl of noodles setting you back no more than ¥1000.
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Shōjin Restaurant Yō
Macrobiotic, organic and vegan fare that's attractively presented and very tasty. The shop is beautifully done with brown-paper lanterns, a sushi-style bar and Zen-style flower arrangements. To get here, take the Nanboku line and get off at Horohirabashi. Go left out of the station and veer right at the first traffic signal. The road curves, passing a park (on the right). Go straight through the next signal and turn left when you hit the next one (at the tram line); the restaurant is a few doors down on the right.
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Hokkaidō University
Established in 1876, this university is a scenic place, with a number of unique buildings. The Furukawa Memorial Hall and the Seikatei are noteworthy, and several campus museums are open to the public. The bust of William S Clark, the founding vice-president of the university, is a famous landmark. Upon his departure in 1877, Professor Clark famously told his students: 'Boys, be ambitious!'
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Sapporo Winter Sports Museum
At the foot of the awe-inspiring ski-jump (134m) used in Sapporo's Olympics, this new museum dares you not to break a sweat as you try computer-simulated challenges in hockey, cross-country skiing, speed-skating and ski-jumping. A well-done English-language audio guide takes you through a history of winter sporting and the Sapporo Winter Olympics.
You can also ride the chairlift to the top of the real jump, or hike it. The chairlift costs almost as much as the museum, and operating hours vary.
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Hokudai Shokubutsuen
One of Sapporo's must-sees, this beautiful outdoor garden is the botanical showpiece of Hokkaidō University. Here you'll find more than 4000 plant varietals, all attractively set on a meandering 14-hectare plot just 10 minutes on foot southwest of the station. Of particular note is the small section dedicated to Ainu wild foods and medicinal plants, though English-language signage is sadly in short supply.
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E
Tokei-dai
This clock tower was constructed in 1878 and has now become the symbol of Sapporo and a useful landmark for visitors. It's not particularly stunning, but you can wander around a small museum of local history. It's open daily (except Monday).
The clock tower was renovated in 1998, although the clock itself did not need repairs. Two generations of the Inoue family have voluntarily kept it in meticulous working order - allegedly, the clock has never missed tolling the hour in over 120 years.
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Nijō Fish Market
Buy a bowl of rice and select your own sashimi toppings, gawk at the fresh delicacies (some more delicate than others!), or sit down at a shop in Nijō Fish Market, one of Hokkaidō's best. Get there early for the freshest selections and the most variety; things close up by 18:00 and individual restaurants have their own hours. Sea urchin and salmon roe are favourites; as is Hokkaidō's version of 'Mother and Child' (Oyakodon), a bowl of rice topped with salmon and roe.
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Aji-no-Ichiba
Rishiri-tō is a great place for fresh seafood of all kinds, but uni (sea urchin) is mouthwatering. People have been known to travel all the way from Tokyo simply to eat it here. The stall Aji-no-Ichiba serves seafood straight from the local fishing boats to your mouth, sometimes with no cooking in between. Look for a small, nondescript building next to a warehouse with an uni tank and Coca-Cola vending machine; exit to the right from the Oshidomari ferry terminal.
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Hokkaidō Jingu
This temple is nestled in a forest so dense that it's easy to forget that the city is just beyond the grounds. Attention has been paid to labelling the natural surroundings: a large plaque lists a number of local birds and the largest trees have identification signs. The temple lies a few blocks east of Maruyama-kōen station (exit 1).
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Ōnuma Quasi-National Park
Though quite a distance from Hakodate proper, this national park boasts an unusually large lake and swamp that offers beautiful canoeing, fishing and many scenic hiking tracks, is worth the trip. Bring insect repellent, as tourists are particularly tasty. You're much better off hiring a car, as the train connection is inconvenient. Many of the hills have hidden hot springs, but finding them can be difficult - your best bet is to ask a local for directions to their favourite gem.
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Cable car
This mode of transport whisks you to the top of Hokadate-yama mountain in a few minutes. Take tram 2 or 5 to the Jūjigai stop (around 200) and walk uphill to the ropeway platform (seven minutes). A summit-bound bus (around 360, 30 minutes) leaves directly from the station, is cheaper and stops at several viewing places as it winds to the top. Those wanting to rough it old-style can take the hiking track (from May to late October).
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Teine Highland
Skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing can all be done near to Sapporo. The closest place is Teine, 10 minutes' train ride away. Teine has 14 lifts and is very much geared towards beginners. It's the place to ski if you're wanting to play around for a while; it's probably a disappointment for hard-core skiers, but is good for families with children. As with other skiing resorts, all equipment can be rented when you arrive.
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Foreigners' Cemetery
Quite unusual, as it has the graves not only of well-known people of the time, but of sailors, clergy, and others as well, all of whom died far away from their homelands. Many of the graves have English, Russian, or French inscriptions and it is an interesting slice of Japan's colonial history. The walk there is a sight in itself: running parallel to the edge of the bay, it affords some beautiful views of the water.
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California Baby
Just around the corner from Nishi-Hatoba, this place has 'the best American coffee' and a variety of inexpensive dishes, such as California sandwiches and 'Sysco Rice', a popular favourite - rice, sausages, and Italian meat sauce. Get off at Suehiro-chō and backtrack to the first stoplight. Turn left (towards the water) and look for the teddy bear museum, then turn right and look for the bright yellow sign.
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Asa-ichi
The morning market is the place for fresh fish. Seafood donburi (a bowl of rice with toppings) is a local favourite. If you prefer to eat your seafood in a restaurant, see if one will whip up a Hakodate version of oyakodon; meaning 'mother and child donburi', it's usually made with chicken and egg in the rest of Japan; in Hokkaidō it's made with salmon and its roe.
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Moiwa-yama Ropeway
Panoramic views of Sapporo can be had from this scenic ropeway, which runs 1200m up the slopes of Moiwa-san. At the top is a large tourist complex where you can linger over a meal, shop for Hokkaidō-related paraphernalia or scan the cityscape with high-powered binoculars. You can easily access the ropeway by taking the tram to the Rōpuwei-iriguchi stop, and then walking west towards the hill for around 10 minutes.
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Esta
Fussy eaters who like to window shop should head straight to this giant restaurant floor that forms part of the Paseo Shopping Centre at JR Sapporo Station; one major path to the subway leads right through it. Listen for the singsong 'Ikagadeshou~~ka?' (Take a look?) and you'll know you've arrived.
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Salmon Museum
Half aquarium, half museum, the interesting salmon museum is a tribute to one of the world's most delicious fish. It's located across the street from the Sapporo Winter Sports Museum. Check out over 20 different species of salmon in varying stages of development. Salamanders, turtles and frogs are on display as well. Great place to go with kids.
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