Sights in Hakodate
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Hakodate-yama
This small mountain (334m) offers a great view of the city, especially at night. You can catch the cable car or a summit-bound bus (around 360, 30 minutes) that leaves directly from the station, is cheaper and stops at several viewing places as it winds to the top. Those wanting to rough it old-style can take the hiking track (from May to late October).
A 10-minute walk from the summit is Tsutsuji-yama carpark, a hot date spot at night, but relatively crowd-free by day. At its far end there is an overgrown path that leads to moss-covered walls and buttresses, the ruins of an old fort, Hakodateyama Yōsai. Unlike so many of Japan's historic sites, this one is refreshingly d…
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Ōnuma Quasi-National Park
Though quite a distance from Hakodate proper, this national park boasts an unusually large lake and swamp that offers beautiful canoeing, fishing and many scenic hiking tracks, is worth the trip. Bring insect repellent, as tourists are particularly tasty. You're much better off hiring a car, as the train connection is inconvenient. Many of the hills have hidden hot springs, but finding them can be difficult - your best bet is to ask a local for directions to their favourite gem.
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Foreigners' Cemetery
Quite unusual, as it has the graves not only of well-known people of the time, but of sailors, clergy, and others as well, all of whom died far away from their homelands. Many of the graves have English, Russian, or French inscriptions and it is an interesting slice of Japan's colonial history. The walk there is a sight in itself: running parallel to the edge of the bay, it affords some beautiful views of the water.
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Goryō-kaku Fort
Japan's first Western-style fort was built in 1864 in the shape of a five-pointed star (goryō-kaku means 'five-sided fort') and was designed to trap attackers in deadly crossfire. Nothing remains of the actual fort structure, but the landscaped grounds and moat are picturesque, and one can actually climb around on them.
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Goryō-kaku Tower
Recently rebuilt but to mixed reaction ('looks like Big Brother', said a resident), the tower provides an attractive view of the fort below and the surrounding city. To reach the fort, take tram 2 or 5 to the Goryōkaku-kōen-mae stop (around 220, 15 minutes). From there it's a 10-minute walk.
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Squid boats
At the docks there are some interesting fishing vessels, particularly the squid boats. Lantern-light attracts the squid to the surface; few boats are as picturesque.
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Hakodate City Museum Annexe
Nearby the lanscaped grounds where the old fort once stood, this museum offers a taste of the fort's history, including weaponry and bloodstained uniforms (ugh!).
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Russian Greek Orthodox Church
A beautiful old church restored in 1916. Remove your shoes before you enter. It's closed in winter from about 26 December through to February (dates vary).
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Old British Consulate
English-style tea-time makes a relaxing afternoon here that much more enjoyable. British souvenirs and postcards add to the nostalgia. Marmite, anyone?
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Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples
A good place to learn about the Ainu and their culture. English signs have been added to some exhibits.
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Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward
This building has a great view of the bay and the outgoing squid boats.
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