Sights in Dō Nan (Southern Hokkaidō)
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Hakodate-yama
This small mountain (334m) offers a memorable view of Hakodate, especially at night when the twinkling city lights contrast the dark waters. A ropeway whisks you to the top in a few minutes.
A 10-minute walk from the summit is a car park. At its far end there is an overgrown path that leads to moss-covered walls and buttresses, the ruins of an old fort, Hakodateyama Yōsai. It's refreshingly deserted, and you can happily clamber around, Indiana Jones–style, among ferns with fronds the size of palm leaves.
Take tram 2 or 5 to the Jūjigai stop, and walk a few minutes uphill to the ropeway platform. Alternatively, a summit-bound bus (¥360, 30 minutes) leaves directly from th…
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Ōnuma Quasi-National Park
Though quite a distance from Hakodate proper, this national park boasts an unusually large lake and swamp that offers beautiful canoeing, fishing and many scenic hiking tracks, is worth the trip. Bring insect repellent, as tourists are particularly tasty. You're much better off hiring a car, as the train connection is inconvenient. Many of the hills have hidden hot springs, but finding them can be difficult - your best bet is to ask a local for directions to their favourite gem.
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Foreigners' Cemetery
Quite unusual, as it has the graves not only of well-known people of the time, but of sailors, clergy, and others as well, all of whom died far away from their homelands. Many of the graves have English, Russian, or French inscriptions and it is an interesting slice of Japan's colonial history. The walk there is a sight in itself: running parallel to the edge of the bay, it affords some beautiful views of the water.
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Goryō-kaku
Japan's first Western-style fort was built in 1864 in the shape of a five-pointed star (goryō-kaku means 'five-sided fort'), and was designed to trap attackers in deadly crossfire. Nothing remains of the actual fort structure, but the landscaped grounds and moat are picturesque, and the moss-covered walls are quite fun to scramble upon. To reach the fort, take tram 2 or 5 to the Goryōkaku-kōen-mae stop. From there it's a 10-minute walk.
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Goryō-kaku Tower
Recently rebuilt but to mixed reaction ('looks like Big Brother', said a resident), the tower provides an attractive view of the fort below and the surrounding city. To reach the fort, take tram 2 or 5 to the Goryōkaku-kōen-mae stop (around 220, 15 minutes). From there it's a 10-minute walk.
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Squid boats
At the docks there are some interesting fishing vessels, particularly the squid boats. Lantern-light attracts the squid to the surface; few boats are as picturesque.
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Hakodate City Museum Annexe
Nearby the lanscaped grounds where the old fort once stood, this museum offers a taste of the fort's history, including weaponry and bloodstained uniforms (ugh!).
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Russian Greek Orthodox Church
A beautiful old church restored in 1916. Remove your shoes before you enter. It's closed in winter from about 26 December through to February (dates vary).
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Old British Consulate
English-style tea-time makes a relaxing afternoon here that much more enjoyable. British souvenirs and postcards add to the nostalgia. Marmite, anyone?
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Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples
A good place to learn about the Ainu and their culture. English signs have been added to some exhibits.
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Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward
This building has a great view of the bay and the outgoing squid boats.
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Yachigashira Onsen
On the southern edge of Hakodate-yama is this enormous hot spring, one of Hokkaidō's oldest, with dark iron-laden water. To get here, take tram 2 to Yachigashira, the final stop. On foot, continue to the first intersection and then turn right – you'll see the public bathhouse complex on the left shortly after you turn.
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Motomachi
On Mt Hakodate's lower slopes, this area is home to the lion's share of 19th-century sites, and commands stunning panoramic views of the bay. The places in the following listings are all located in close proximity to one another, and are easily reached on foot.
To get to Motomachi, take tram 5 from the station and get off at the Suehirō-chō stop, then walk uphill for 10 minutes. Alternatively, get off at the end of the line and walk along the waterfront first, visit the cemetery, then stop at the buildings as you walk uphill to Suehirō-chō.
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Kyū-Igirisu Ryōjikan
From 1913 to 1934, this whitewashed mansion served as the British consulate, though today it's primarily used as a tea salon for sightseers in need of some bergamot-scented afternoon respite.
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Kyū-Hakodate Kukōkaidō
The old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward is an ornate mansion awash in pale blues and yellows that reigns regally over the district. Inside are items of historical interest relating to the city, although the main appeal is the wonderful colonial-style architecture – and the opportunity for visitors to dress up! In true Japanese fashion, you can indulge in a bit of costume play by donning a Meiji-era high-collar dress, and prancing around the estate like a reigning monarch.
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Hakodate-shi Hoppō-minzoku Shiryōkan
The Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples is a recommended place to learn about the Ainu and their material culture. English signs have been added to some exhibits.
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Hakodate Harisutosu Seikyōkai
Dating from 1916, this beautiful old Russian Orthodox church is adorned with distinctive copper domes and spires.
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Gaikokujin Bochi
The Foreigners' Cemetery, an interesting slice of local history, has the graves of sailors, clergy and others who unfortunately died far away from their homelands. Many of the graves are marked with English, Russian or French inscriptions.
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