Things to do in Nagano
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A
Asian Night Market
Part cafe, part humble-jumble Thai clothing and knick-knack shop, this storefront is at once sweet and hip. It has English-speaking staff, beer, cocktails, soft drinks including Thai coffee, Thai food, and nooks for browsing.
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Bistro Liberty
Nagano's most popular gaijin pub has Guinness on tap, decent pub food and a friendly crowd. From JR Nagano Station, take a right on busy Nagano-Ōdōri and another right (at the second stoplight) on Shōwa-dōri.
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Chō Bali Bali
This stylish space gathers lively crowds most nights and serves eclectic dishes from Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam, with a touch of Italian for good measure; yam-un-sen is a spicy Thai salad with vermicelli. Highly recommended.
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Fujiki-an
The clean, contemporary setting belies this soba shop's history (since 1827) of making fresh soba from the north of Nagano-ken. There's a picture menu: seiro-mori soba (cold soba on a bamboo mat; ¥900) lets the flavour shine; other favourites are sansai, kinoko (mushroom) tempura (¥1400) or nishin (herring; ¥1200).
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India the Spice
This eccentric cafe is festooned with every kind of wall clock imaginable, and specialises in variations on the theme of curry; lunch sets include omu-karē (rice wrapped in an omelette in keema curry sauce; ¥900). Going up Chūō-dōri, take a right when you see the food stall in a red bus beside the road, then take another right. Look for signboards and vine leaves around the entrance.
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Yayoi-za
A homey 150-year-old shop specialising in seiro-mushi (ingredients steamed in a wood and bamboo box). The standard is monzen seiro-mushi (local beef and vegetables; ¥1680), while vegetarians can enjoy onyasai salada (steamed vegetables in sesame sauce; ¥840). For dessert, try kuri-an cream (chestnut-paste mousse; ¥525).
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Zenkō-ji
This temple is believed to have been founded in the 7th century and is the home of the revered statue Ikkō-Sanzon, allegedly the first Buddhist image to arrive in Japan (in AD 552). Don't expect to see it, however; it is said that 37 generations of emperors have not seen the image, though millions of visitors flock here to view a copy every seven years during the Gokaichō Matsuri.
Zenkō-ji's immense popularity stems partly from its liberal welcoming of believers from all Buddhist sects, including women; its chief officiants are both a priest and a priestess. The current building dates from 1707 and is a National Treasure.
Visitors ascend to the temple via Nakamise-dōri…
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Kashin Miwa
Has ice cream made with soba (only in Nagano) near Zenkōji's Niōmon
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Oyaki Kōbō
Oyaki (filled wheat buns) with tasty flavours like pumpkin, mushroom and eggplant.
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Heiandō bookshop
Facing the station, Nagano's largest bookshop carries English-language books and magazines (4th floor).
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Bakery's Street Café
Dozens of bakeries from around Shinshu take turns supplying the wares. On Chūō-dōri, en route to Zenkō-ji, 12 minutes' walk from the station.
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M-Wave
Skating, while pricey (and hours vary), is perhaps the best way to experience M-Wave . Take a Yashima-bound bus from stop 1 from Nagano Station's east exit and get off at M-Wave.
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Groovy
A music spot popular with jazz lovers for its live shows; check the website for schedule info. It's upstairs on Chūō-dōri, a six-minute walk from the train station.
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Sukitei
Tops in town for succulent sukiyaki. Meals include udon, gyusashi (beef sashimi) and more. The price of the top-grade beef is sky-high, but if you try it you may never go back to the cheaper stuff. It's set on the river, and is well worth the ¥1600 taxi ride from the station.
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Marusei
A stone's throw from the temple on Nakamise-dōri, tiny, unassuming Marusei serves soba and a well-liked tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet); the Marusei bentō (boxed meal; ¥1350) lets you try both.
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Liberty
Nagano's most popular gaijin pub has Guinness on tap, decent pub food and a friendly crowd. From the west exit of JR Nagano, take a right on busy Nagano-Odōri and another right (at the second stoplight) on Showa-dōri.
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Chō Bali Bali
This stylish space gathers a festive crowd most nights and serves eclectic dishes from Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam with a touch of Italian for good measure; yam-un-sen is a spicy Thai salad with vermicelli. Highly recommended.
reviewed
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Gomeikan
This long-time Nagano favourite serves delicious tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet), vegetarian Indian curry, beefsteak, and coffee and cake in an old renovated building next to the post office on Chūō-dōri.
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Gohonjin Fujiya
Until recently, this was Nagano's most venerable hotel (since 1648 – look for 'Hotel Fujiya' on signage), but it quit the hotel business and has transformed itself into the city's most venerable Western restaurant. Try sweet potato gnocchi with mascarpone sauce or wa-gyū (Japanese beef) sirloin. The imposing 1923 building mixes Japanese and art deco motifs.
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Tofu Café Gorokutei
From the pancakes to the parfaits, just about everything here is made with Japan's favourite protein (although the 'tofu hamburger' also has a little ground chicken). It's in Patio Daimon, an open-air collection of small buildings built like kura, by the Daimon and Daimon Minami bus stops. Picture menu.
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Munch
Japanese reggae is the soundtrack at this youthful contemporary izakaya. Order small plates like agedashi-dofu (fried tofu), basashi (horsemeat sashimi) or niku-jaga (meat and potatoes), washed down with ichigo (strawberry) or mikan (mandarin orange) sake. Or say how much you want to spend and let the chef surprise you. From the Zenkōji exit of the station, turn right through the alley and just past the car park.
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Zenkō-Ji Temple 善光寺
Zenkō-Ji Temple 善光寺 is believed to have been founded in the 7th century and is the home of the Ikkō-Sanzon, allegedly the first Buddhist image to arrive in Japan (in AD 552, from Korea). The image has quite a history; it's been the subject of disputes, lost, recovered and, finally, installed again. Don't expect to see it, however; it is said that 37 generations of emperors have not seen the image, though visitors may view a copy every seven years.
Zenkōji's immense popularity stems partly from its liberal welcoming of believers from all Buddhist sects, including women; its chief officiants are both a priest and a priestess.
The original site was south of the…
reviewed