Things to do in Nagano Ken
-
Robata Shōya
On a corner in the town centre is this classic, lively yakitori-ya (restaurant specialising in yakitori), with a large selection of grills, seasonal specials and a (sort of) English menu.
reviewed
-
Zenkō-Ji Temple 善光寺
Zenkō-Ji Temple 善光寺 is believed to have been founded in the 7th century and is the home of the Ikkō-Sanzon, allegedly the first Buddhist image to arrive in Japan (in AD 552, from Korea). The image has quite a history; it's been the subject of disputes, lost, recovered and, finally, installed again. Don't expect to see it, however; it is said that 37 generations of emperors have not seen the image, though visitors may view a copy every seven years.
Zenkōji's immense popularity stems partly from its liberal welcoming of believers from all Buddhist sects, including women; its chief officiants are both a priest and a priestess.
The original site was south of the curre…
reviewed
-
Matsumoto-Jō Castle
Even if you spend only a couple of hours in Matsumoto, visit Matsumoto-Jō Castle, Japan's oldest wooden castle and one of four castles designated National Treasures - the others are Hikone, Himeji and Inuyama.
The magnificent three-turreted donjon was built c 1595, in contrasting black-and-white, leading to the nickname Karasu-jō (Crow Castle). Steep steps lead up six storeys, with impressive views from each level. Lower floors display guns, bombs and gadgets with which to storm castles, and a delightful tsukimi yagura (moon-viewing pavilion). It has a tranquil moat full of carp, with the occasional swan gliding beneath the red bridges. The basics are explained over lou…
reviewed
-
Matsumoto City Museum of Art
This sleek museum has a good collection of Japanese artists, many of whom hail from Matsumoto or depict scenes of the surrounding countryside. Highlights include the striking avant-garde works of Kusama Yayoi (look for the 'Infinity Mirrored Room').
reviewed
-
Japan Ukiyo-e Museum
Housing more than 100,000 wood-block prints, paintings, screens and old books, this renowned museum exhibits a minuscule fraction of its collection. There's an explanatory leaflet in English.
The museum is approximately 3km from Matsumoto Station, 15 minutes' walk from Ōniwa Station on the Matsumoto Dentetsu line (¥170, six minutes), or about ¥2000 by taxi.
reviewed
-
Munch
Japanese reggae is the soundtrack at this youthful contemporary izakaya. Order small plates like agedashi-dofu (fried tofu), basashi (horsemeat sashimi) or niku-jaga (meat and potatoes), washed down with ichigo (strawberry) or mikan (mandarin orange) sake. Or say how much you want to spend and let the chef surprise you. From the Zenkōji exit of the station, turn right through the alley and just past the car park.
reviewed
-
Utsukushi-ga-hara-Kōgen Bijutsukan
Utsukushi-ga-hara-Kōgen Bijutsukan is in the same vein (with the same owner) as the Hakone Open-Air Museum, a large sculpture garden (some 450 pieces) with fine views of the surrounding mountains.
Most Japanese visitors reach the museum by car. Buses (80 minutes) run several times daily in midsummer with spotty-to-nonexistent service the rest of the season; check before you go. Taxis to the museum start at a cool around ¥110 (yes, one way).
reviewed
-
Matsumoto Performing Arts Centre
Architect Itō Toyō has broken all the rules with this 2004 building, and we love it. Its undulating exterior walls are punctuated with frosted glass cut-outs that look like rocks - very impressive at night. Among other performances, the Matsumoto Performing Arts Centre is the key venue for the Saito-Kinen festival. Heading east on Eki-mae-dōri from the city centre, it's just off the map on the right.
reviewed
-
Matsumoto City Museum/ Japan Folklore Museum
The castle grounds (and your admission ticket) also include the Matsumoto City Museum/Japan Folklore Museum, with small displays relating to the region's history and folklore.
reviewed
-
Tofu Café Gorokutei
From the pancakes to the parfaits, just about everything here is made with Japan's favourite protein (although the 'tofu hamburger' also has a little ground chicken). It's in Patio Daimon, an open-air collection of small buildings built like kura, by the Daimon and Daimon Minami bus stops. Picture menu.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Nakamachi Kura-Chic-Kan
The narrow streets of former merchant district Nakamachi make a fine setting for a stroll, as most of its storehouses have been transformed into galleries, craft shops and cafés. Nakamachi Kura-Chic-Kan is just one option, showcasing locally produced arts and crafts, with a relaxing coffee house next door.
reviewed
-
Shizuka
Friendly, traditional izakaya serving favourites like oden and yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken). Some more challenging local specialities are on the English menu.
reviewed
-
Ramen Kameya
Nothing fancy here, just rāmen served in traditional Chinese style (chūka), with Shinshū miso or even kimchi. It's popular with the late-night after-drinking crowd, with all that entails. Look for the chalkboard on the wall across from the hotel carpark.
reviewed
-
Gohonjin Fujiya
Until recently, this was Nagano's most venerable hotel (since 1648 – look for 'Hotel Fujiya' on signage), but it quit the hotel business and has transformed itself into the city's most venerable Western restaurant. Try sweet potato gnocchi with mascarpone sauce or wa-gyū (Japanese beef) sirloin. The imposing 1923 building mixes Japanese and art deco motifs.
reviewed
-
Berami
Temari and dolls are found here. Doll styles include tanabata and oshie-bina (dressed in fine cloth).
reviewed
-
Nomugi
In Nakamachi, this is one of central Japan's finest soba shops. Its owner used to run a French restaurant in Tokyo before returning to his home town. There's one dish: zaru-soba in a wicker basket; plus kake-soba (¥1300), which is served during the colder months.
reviewed
-
Asama Onsen
Hot-spring resort Asama Onsen northeast of town isn't rustic, but its history is said to reach back to the 10th century and include writers and poets. The waters are also said to be good for gastrointestinal and skin troubles, and women's disorders.
reviewed
-
Gomeikan
This long-time Nagano favourite serves delicious tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet), vegetarian Indian curry, beefsteak, and coffee and cake in an old renovated building next to the post office on Chūō-dōri.
reviewed
-
Chō Bali Bali
This stylish space gathers a festive crowd most nights and serves eclectic dishes from Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam with a touch of Italian for good measure; yam-un-sen is a spicy Thai salad with vermicelli. Highly recommended.
reviewed
-
Liberty
Nagano's most popular gaijin pub has Guinness on tap, decent pub food and a friendly crowd. From the west exit of JR Nagano, take a right on busy Nagano-Odōri and another right (at the second stoplight) on Showa-dōri.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Marusei
A stone's throw from the temple on Nakamise-dōri, tiny, unassuming Marusei serves soba and a well-liked tonkatsu (deep-fried breaded pork cutlet); the Marusei bentō (boxed meal; ¥1350) lets you try both.
reviewed
-
Kura
Located near Nakamachi, Kura serves meticulously prepared sushi and tempura for lunch and dinner in a stylish former warehouse. For the daring: basashi (raw horse meat).
reviewed
-
Coat
Directly behind Old Rock, this sophisticated little bar is home to Matsumoto's most famous bartender. Hayashi-san's inventive otomenadeshiko cocktail won first prize at the Japan Bartenders Association competition early this decade.
reviewed
-
Sukitei
Tops in town for succulent sukiyaki. Meals include udon, gyusashi (beef sashimi) and more. The price of the top-grade beef is sky-high, but if you try it you may never go back to the cheaper stuff. It's set on the river, and is well worth the ¥1600 taxi ride from the station.
reviewed
-
Vamonos
This sweet little Mexican cantina serves enchiladas, burritos, nachos, large salads and dainty but potent margaritas. Look for the sign on the 2nd floor.
reviewed
