Things to do in Matsumoto
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Robata Shōya
On a corner in the town centre is this classic, lively yakitori-ya (restaurant specialising in yakitori), with a large selection of grills, seasonal specials and a (sort of) English menu.
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Matsumoto-Jō Castle
Even if you spend only a couple of hours in Matsumoto, visit Matsumoto-Jō Castle, Japan's oldest wooden castle and one of four castles designated National Treasures - the others are Hikone, Himeji and Inuyama.
The magnificent three-turreted donjon was built c 1595, in contrasting black-and-white, leading to the nickname Karasu-jō (Crow Castle). Steep steps lead up six storeys, with impressive views from each level. Lower floors display guns, bombs and gadgets with which to storm castles, and a delightful tsukimi yagura (moon-viewing pavilion). It has a tranquil moat full of carp, with the occasional swan gliding beneath the red bridges. The basics are explained over lou…
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Matsumoto City Museum of Art
This sleek museum has a good collection of Japanese artists, many of whom hail from Matsumoto or depict scenes of the surrounding countryside. Highlights include the striking avant-garde works of Kusama Yayoi (look for the 'Infinity Mirrored Room').
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Japan Ukiyo-e Museum
Housing more than 100,000 wood-block prints, paintings, screens and old books, this renowned museum exhibits a minuscule fraction of its collection. There's an explanatory leaflet in English.
The museum is approximately 3km from Matsumoto Station, 15 minutes' walk from Ōniwa Station on the Matsumoto Dentetsu line (¥170, six minutes), or about ¥2000 by taxi.
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Utsukushi-ga-hara-Kōgen Bijutsukan
Utsukushi-ga-hara-Kōgen Bijutsukan is in the same vein (with the same owner) as the Hakone Open-Air Museum, a large sculpture garden (some 450 pieces) with fine views of the surrounding mountains.
Most Japanese visitors reach the museum by car. Buses (80 minutes) run several times daily in midsummer with spotty-to-nonexistent service the rest of the season; check before you go. Taxis to the museum start at a cool around ¥110 (yes, one way).
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Matsumoto Performing Arts Centre
Architect Itō Toyō has broken all the rules with this 2004 building, and we love it. Its undulating exterior walls are punctuated with frosted glass cut-outs that look like rocks - very impressive at night. Among other performances, the Matsumoto Performing Arts Centre is the key venue for the Saito-Kinen festival. Heading east on Eki-mae-dōri from the city centre, it's just off the map on the right.
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Matsumoto City Museum/ Japan Folklore Museum
The castle grounds (and your admission ticket) also include the Matsumoto City Museum/Japan Folklore Museum, with small displays relating to the region's history and folklore.
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Nakamachi Kura-Chic-Kan
The narrow streets of former merchant district Nakamachi make a fine setting for a stroll, as most of its storehouses have been transformed into galleries, craft shops and cafés. Nakamachi Kura-Chic-Kan is just one option, showcasing locally produced arts and crafts, with a relaxing coffee house next door.
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Shizuka
Friendly, traditional izakaya serving favourites like oden and yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken). Some more challenging local specialities are on the English menu.
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Ramen Kameya
Nothing fancy here, just rāmen served in traditional Chinese style (chūka), with Shinshū miso or even kimchi. It's popular with the late-night after-drinking crowd, with all that entails. Look for the chalkboard on the wall across from the hotel carpark.
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Berami
Temari and dolls are found here. Doll styles include tanabata and oshie-bina (dressed in fine cloth).
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Nomugi
In Nakamachi, this is one of central Japan's finest soba shops. Its owner used to run a French restaurant in Tokyo before returning to his home town. There's one dish: zaru-soba in a wicker basket; plus kake-soba (¥1300), which is served during the colder months.
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Asama Onsen
Hot-spring resort Asama Onsen northeast of town isn't rustic, but its history is said to reach back to the 10th century and include writers and poets. The waters are also said to be good for gastrointestinal and skin troubles, and women's disorders.
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Kura
Located near Nakamachi, Kura serves meticulously prepared sushi and tempura for lunch and dinner in a stylish former warehouse. For the daring: basashi (raw horse meat).
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Coat
Directly behind Old Rock, this sophisticated little bar is home to Matsumoto's most famous bartender. Hayashi-san's inventive otomenadeshiko cocktail won first prize at the Japan Bartenders Association competition early this decade.
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Vamonos
This sweet little Mexican cantina serves enchiladas, burritos, nachos, large salads and dainty but potent margaritas. Look for the sign on the 2nd floor.
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Old Rock
A block south of the river and across the street from Nakamachi, this popular gaijin pub attracts a lively crowd on weekend nights. Good lunch specials and a wide selection of beers are available.
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Hot Plaza Asama
Among dozens of baths and inns (and the youth hostel) at Asama Onsen, Hot Plaza Asama has many pools in a traditional building. Buses from Matsumoto Station take about 20 minutes.
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Sweet
If you're looking for a quick coffee and cake, cafés line the banks of the Metoba-gawa and Nawate-dōri. Sweet is typical.
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Goodwill Guide Group
The Goodwill Guide Group gives free one-hour tours of Matsumoto-Jō Castle by advance notice.
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Utsukushi-ga-hara Kōgen
Not to be confused with Utsukushi-ga-hara Onsen, this alpine plateau (2000m) is a popular warm-weather excursion from Matsumoto, reached via an ooh-and-ahh drive on twisty mountain roads called Azalea Line and Venus Line.
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Utsukushi-ga-hara Bijutsukan
In the same vein (with the same owner) as the Hakone Open-Air Museum, it's a large sculpture garden with some 350 pieces, mostly by Japanese sculptors. The surrounding mountains provide an inspiring backdrop in clear weather.
Nearby are pleasant walks and the opportunity to see cows in pasture (a constant source of fascination in Japan). Furusato-kan (ふる里館), the shop at the hilltop farm, sells ice cream made from local kokemomo (lingonberries).
Buses (¥1300, 80 minutes) run several times daily in midsummer, with spotty-to-nonexistent service the rest of the season; check before you go. Taxis are expensive, so renting a car may make sense.
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Utsukushi-ga-hara & Asama Onsen
Northeast of town, Utsukushi-ga-hara Onsen (not to be confused with Utsukushi-ga-hara Kōgen) is the more beautiful of these two bathing areas, with a quaint main street and views across the valley. Asama Onsen's history is said to date back to the 10th century and includes writers and poets, though it looks quite generic now. Hot Plaza Asama feels like a neighbourhood sentō but boasts many pools and sauna.
Both towns are easily reached by bus from Matsumoto's bus terminal (Utsukushi-ga-hara Onsen: ¥330, 18 minutes, twice hourly; Asama Onsen: ¥350, 23 minutes, hourly).
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Nakamachi
The narrow streets of this former merchant district make a fine setting for a stroll, as most of its storehouses have been transformed into cafes, galleries and craft shops specialising in wood, glass, fabric, ceramics and antiques. Nakamachi Kura-Chic-Kan is just one option, showcasing locally produced arts and crafts, with a relaxing coffee house next door.
reviewed
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Matsumoto Timepiece Museum
Home to Japan's largest pendulum clock (on the building's exterior) and over 300 other timepieces, incuding fascinating medieval Japanese creations, this museum shows Japan's love of monozukuri, the art of creating things.
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