Things to do in Kanazawa
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Kenroku-en
The star attraction of Kanazawa, Kenroku-en is ranked as one of the great gardens of the Edo period and one of the top three gardens in Japan (the other two are Kairaku-en in Mito, and Kōraku-en in Okayama).
The name (kenroku means 'combined six') refers to a renowned garden from Sung-dynasty China that required six attributes for perfection: seclusion, spaciousness, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views (on clear days you can see to the Sea of Japan). In 1676 Kenroku-en started as the garden of an outer villa of Kanazawa-jō, but later it was enlarged to serve the castle itself, reaching completion in the early 19th century; the garden opened to the…
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Kanazawa-jō
Originally built in 1580, Kanazawa-jō housed the Maeda clan for 14 generations; this massive structure was called the castle of 1000 tatami. That castle was destroyed by fire, but some reconstruction has taken place inside its moated walls, now rechristened Kanazawa Castle Park (Kanazawa-jo Kōen). The elegant gate Ishikawa-mon, rebuilt in 1788, provides a dramatic entry from Kenroku-en; holes in its turret were designed for ishi-otoshi, hurling rocks at invaders.
Two additional buildings, the Hishi-yagura (diamond-shaped turret) and Gojikken-Nagaya (armoury) were reconstructed in 2001, offering a glimpse of the castle's unique wood-frame construction.
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Myōryū-ji
The temple Myōryū-ji is a five-minute walk from the river. Completed in 1643, it was designed as a hideout in case of attack, and contains hidden stairways, escape routes, secret chambers, concealed tunnels and trick doors. The popular name refers to the temple's connection with ninja (practitioners of the art of stealth). Admission is by tour only - it's in Japanese but visual enough. To reach the temple, take Minami Ō-dōri across the river, take a left at the first major intersection, then the first right.
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21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
Designed by the acclaimed Tokyo architecture firm SANAA, this ultramodern museum opened in late 2004 and instantly became an 'it' building. A low-slung glass cylinder, 113m in diameter, forms the perimeter, and inside galleries and auditoria are arranged like boxes on a tray. Nongallery portions of the building are open daily from 9am to 10pm.
Oh yes, there's art too: temporary exhibits by leading contemporary artists from Japan and abroad, plus occasional music and dance performances. Check the website for events; admission charges may increase up to ¥1000 during special exhibitions.
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Polé Polé
In the same building (and sharing the same owners) as Legian restaurant, this dark, grungy and friendly bar has been an institution for decades for gaijin and locals – look for the signatures of foreign exchange students. The narrow floor is littered with peanut shells (proceeds from peanut sales go to charity), and the reggae music is loud.
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Kōtatsu
More sophisticated than your everyday okonomiyaki place, Kōtatsu has a dark atmosphere and an assortment of sake and shōchū, and will cook your okonomiyaki for you. Salads are also available. It's beneath Arroz Spanish restaurant; there's a bubble motif on the brown wall outside.
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Oden Miyuki Honten
For fish in another form (ground and pressed into cakes and served in broth), oden is very satisfying, especially on chilly nights. Some of the staff are English-speaking.
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Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Products & Crafts
Behind Seison-kaku, this museum is not flashy but offers fine displays of over 20 regional crafts. Pick up the free English-language headphone guide.
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Sakuda Gold Leaf Company
The Sakuda Gold Leaf Company is a good place to observe the kinpaku (gold leaf) process and pick up gilded souvenirs (including pottery, lacquerware and, er, golf balls). The tea served here contains flecks of gold leaf, meant to be good for rheumatism. Even the walls of the loos are lined with gold and platinum.
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Shinise Kinenkan
Towards the Sai-gawa, Shinise Kinenkan offers a peek at a former pharmacy and, upstairs, a moderate assortment of local traditional products. If the flowering tree made entirely of candy gives you a sweet tooth, slake it at Murakami, a handsome wagashi (Japanese candy) shop next to the Nomura samurai house.
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Nakamura Memorial Museum
Rotating exhibitions from the 600-piece collection of this museum usually include chanoyu (tea ceremony) utensils, calligraphy and traditional crafts from the collection of a wealthy sake brewer, Nakamura Eishun. You can enjoy a bowl of powdered tea for ¥100. Reached via a narrow flight of steps below the Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum.
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Ōmichō Market
A warren of several hundred shops and restaurants, many of which specialise in seafood, this market bustles all day and is a great place for a break from sightseeing and to watch everyday people in action. Ōmichō functions like the outer market of Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Market, but thanks to a recent makeover it's a lot more orderly and polished. It's between Katamachi district and Kanazawa Station. The nearest bus stop is Musashi-ga-tsuji.
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Jiyūken
By Higashi Chaya-gai, this simple but welcoming spot has been serving yō-shoku (Japanese takes on Western cuisine; eg beef stew, grilled chicken, omelettes) since 1909. The teishoku is a steal at ¥920. There are plastic models in the window. Look for the stone front.
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Bistro Yuiga
There's a gentle jazz soundtrack to accompany elegantly prepared French delicacies in this one-time private home. Set menus include treats like raw ham and - because this is Kanazawa - seafood. It's a short walk off the main street from Katamachi, down the street opposite Kōtatsu.
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Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum
This museum specialises in antique exhibitions of traditional arts, with special emphasis on colourful Kutani porcelain, Japanese painting and Kaga yūzen (silk-dyed) fabrics and costumes. Admission prices are higher during special exhibitions.
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Honda Museum
The Honda family were chief retainers to the Maeda clan, and this museum exhibits the family collection of armour, household utensils and works of art. The bulletproof coat and the family vase are particularly interesting, and there's a detailed catalogue in English.
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Ōhi Pottery Museum
This museum was established by the Chōzaemon family, now in its 10th generation. The first Chōzaemon developed this style in nearby Ōhi village, using a special slow-fired amber glaze, specifically for use in chanoyu.
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Baby Rick
This classy little shot bar has a billiard table, jazz and whisky (the good kind), and you can get dishes like spaghetti carbonara and homemade pizzas. It's in the basement level beneath Shidax karaoke. There's a ¥500 cover after 10pm.
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Seison-Kaku Villa
Back in Kenroku-en is this stylish retirement villa, Seison-Kaku Villa, built by a Maeda lord for his mother in 1863. It's worth a visit for the elegant chambers and furnishings. A detailed English-language pamphlet is provided.
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Campagne
This cosy, quietly fashionable Italian bistro serves lovely set menus including house-made focaccia, salads, pastas, 'plosciutto' (sic) and desserts, plus hors-d'oeuvres you can eat with chopsticks. Friendly, professional staff.
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Nagamachi Yūzen-kan
In a non-traditional building at the edge of the district, the Nagamachi Yūzen-kan allows you to watch the process of Kaga yūzen kimono-dyeing. Enquire about trying the silk-dyeing process yourself.
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Pilsen
Munich by the Katamachi Scramble, this German-style place serves lots of beers and a menu including sausages, pasta and omelettes.
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A mix of locals and gaijin fill this large two-storey bar near Kōrinbo 109. There's free internet, a pool table, plenty of food and beer selections and a lively crowd (at least on weekends).
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Tamazushi
Down near Sai-gawa in Katamachi, this classic sushi counter, backed by a painting of a nō stage, is one of Kanazawa's best. No English is spoken, but there's a picture menu. It's a brown-white building on your right as you enter from the main street.
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Legian
For popular, authentic Indonesian cuisine head to this tiny spot by the river. Staff make annual trips to Indonesia to bone up on technique, and are happy to make vegetarian versions.
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