Sights in Kanazawa
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Kenroku-en
Kanazawa's star attraction, Kenroku-en is ranked as one of Japan's three top gardens (the other two are Kairaku-en in Mito and Kōraku-en in Okayama.
The name (kenroku means 'combined six') refers to a renowned garden from Sung-dynasty China that required six attributes for perfection: seclusion, spaciousness, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views (on clear days to the Sea of Japan). Originally Kenroku-en formed the outer garden of Kanazawa-jō, but from the 17th century it was enlarged, reaching completion in the early 19th century; the garden opened to the public in 1871. In winter the branches of Kenroku-en's trees are famously suspended with rope via…
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Kanazawa-jō
Originally built in 1580, Kanazawa-jō housed the Maeda clan for 14 generations; this massive structure was called the castle of 1000 tatami. That castle was destroyed by fire, but some reconstruction has taken place inside its moated walls, now rechristened Kanazawa Castle Park (Kanazawa-jo Kōen). The elegant gate Ishikawa-mon, rebuilt in 1788, provides a dramatic entry from Kenroku-en; holes in its turret were designed for ishi-otoshi, hurling rocks at invaders.
Two additional buildings, the Hishi-yagura (diamond-shaped turret) and Gojikken-Nagaya (armoury) were reconstructed in 2001, offering a glimpse of the castle's unique wood-frame construction.
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Myōryū-ji
The temple Myōryū-ji is a five-minute walk from the river. Completed in 1643, it was designed as a hideout in case of attack, and contains hidden stairways, escape routes, secret chambers, concealed tunnels and trick doors. The popular name refers to the temple's connection with ninja (practitioners of the art of stealth). Admission is by tour only - it's in Japanese but visual enough. To reach the temple, take Minami Ō-dōri across the river, take a left at the first major intersection, then the first right.
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21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
Designed by the critically acclaimed Tokyo architecture firm SANAA, the ultra-modern 21st Century Museum Of Contemporary Art opened in late 2004 and instantly became an 'it' building. A low-slung glass cylinder forms the perimeter, inside of which the galleries, auditoria and more are arranged like boxes on a tray.
Oh yes, there's art too, by leading contemporary artists from Japan and abroad, plus music and dance performances. Check the website for upcoming events; admission price may change during special exhibitions.
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Ishikawa Prefectural Museum for Traditional Products & Crafts
Behind Seison-kaku, the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum for Traditional Products & Crafts is not flashy but offers fine displays of over 20 regional crafts. Be sure to pick up the free English-language headphone guide. If you come across a must-buy, the museum has an English-language map to shops on nearby Hirosaka street.
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Sakuda Gold Leaf Company
The Sakuda Gold Leaf Company is a good place to observe the kinpaku (gold leaf) process and pick up gilded souvenirs (including pottery, lacquerware and, er, golf balls). The tea served here contains flecks of gold leaf, meant to be good for rheumatism. Even the walls of the loos are lined with gold and platinum.
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Shinise Kinenkan
Towards the Sai-gawa, Shinise Kinenkan offers a peek at a former pharmacy and, upstairs, a moderate assortment of local traditional products. If the flowering tree made entirely of candy gives you a sweet tooth, slake it at Murakami, a handsome wagashi (Japanese candy) shop next to the Nomura samurai house.
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Nakamura Memorial Museum
Rotating exhibitions from the 600-piece collection of the Nakamura Memorial Museum usually include chanoyu(tea ceremony) utensils, calligraphy and traditional crafts from the collection of a wealthy sake brewer, Nakamura Eishun. Reached via a narrow flight of steps below the Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum.
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Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum
The Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum specialises in antique exhibitions of traditional arts, with special emphasis on colourful Kutani-yaki porcelain, Japanese painting, and Kaga yūzen (silk-dyed) fabrics and costumes. Admission costs more for special exhibitions.
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Honda Museum
The Honda family were chief retainers to the Maeda clan, and the Honda Museum exhibits the family collection of armour, household utensils and works of art. The bullet-proof coat and the family vase are particularly interesting, and there's a detailed catalogue in English.
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Ōhi Pottery Museum
The Ōhi Pottery Museum was established by the Chōzaemon family, now in its 10th generation. The first Chōzaemon developed this style in nearby Ōhi village, using a special slow-fired amber glaze, specifically for use in chanoyu.
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Seison-Kaku Villa
Back in Kenroku-en is this stylish retirement villa, Seison-Kaku Villa, built by a Maeda lord for his mother in 1863. It's worth a visit for the elegant chambers and furnishings. A detailed English-language pamphlet is provided.
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Nagamachi Yūzen-kan
In a non-traditional building at the edge of the district, the Nagamachi Yūzen-kan allows you to watch the process of Kaga yūzen kimono-dyeing. Enquire about trying the silk-dyeing process yourself.
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Kutani Kosen Gama Kiln
The Kutani Kosen Gama Kiln is a must for pottery lovers. Short tours give visitors a glimpse of the process and history of this fine craft. You can decorate porcelain yourself.
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Gyokusen-en
For more intimacy and fewer crowds than Kenroku-en, Gyokusen-en, an Edo-period garden rises up a steep slope. Enjoy a cup of tea here, while contemplating the tranquil setting.
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Shima
One famous, traditional former geisha house is Shima; note the case of elaborate combs and shamisen picks; it dates from 1820.
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Kaikarō
Kaikarō is an early-19th-century geisha house refinished with contemporary fittings and art including a red lacquered staircase.
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Nomura Samurai House
Nomura Samurai House, though partly transplanted from outside Kanazawa, is worth a visit for its decorative garden.
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Higashi-yu
On most nights you can visit the local sentō(public bath), Higashi-yu.
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