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If a flowering tree made of candy excites you, head to Murakami...
Favoured by Japanese celebrities, this riverside joint is as affable as its owner (who speaks some English)...
This entertaining morning market features a few hundred ageing fishwives hawking fresh-off-the-trawler seafood, lacquerware, pottery and souvenirs, with sass and humour that transcends language...
In a wonderful old storehouse in the Nagamachi samurai district, this lovely museum is actually more of an outlet for high-end ceramic ware. There's also a small museum of historic Kutani-yaki pottery and a cafe.
This museum was established by the Chōzaemon family, now in its 10th generation. The first Chōzaemon developed this style in nearby Ōhi village, using a special slow-fired amber glaze, specifically for use in chanoyu .
Regarded for sashimi and Kaga cuisine since 1931, one of our Japanese friends says that when he eats here, he knows he's really in Kanazawa. You can't go wrong with the saabisu ranchi (lunch specials, from ¥1000).
This modern museum about a 15-minute walk west of the former train station, has a large, rotating collection of lacquerware in galleries on two floors. Phone ahead, as this museum closes between exhibitions.
Authentic and delicious, this little Indian and Sri Lankan gem is in the heart of Katamachi. The chef's recommendation tandoori plate feeds two for ¥1,800. Lunch sets start at ¥780. Vegetarians welcomed!
All the local specialties are covered here with an emphasis on Kutani porcelain, Japanese painting and Kaga yūzen (silk-dyed) fabrics and costumes. Admission prices vary during special exhibitions.
Once a common sight in Japan, this ancient method of farming is disappearing – these 'thousand' terraced rice paddies snaking up the hillside are both fascinating and beautiful in all seasons.
Near the river in Katamachi, this classic sushi counter is one of Kanazawa's best. There's no English, but a picture menu. It's a brown-white building on your right as you enter from the main street.
Here you can view a selection of the impressive illuminated lacquered floats used in the Wajima Taisai festival, some up to 15m tall: take the bus to Tsukada bus stop (¥150, six minutes).
For more intimacy and fewer crowds than Kenroku-en, this Edo-period garden rises up a steep slope. Enjoy a cup of tea here for an additional ¥700, while contemplating the tranquil setting.
Smack in the heart of Katamachi you'll find this shiny, new welcoming bar. The friendly young owner spent time in Canada and is happy to chat. There's a ¥400 seating charge.
The Kutani Kosen Gama Kiln is a must for pottery lovers. Short tours give visitors a glimpse of the process and history of this fine craft. You can decorate porcelain yourself.
Class and character in the heart of Katamachi, this basement bar has an extensive picture menu, a billiard table and attracts a lively crowd. There's a ¥500 cover after 10pm.
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