Sights in Ishikawa Ken
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Kenroku-en
The star attraction of Kanazawa, Kenroku-en is ranked as one of the great gardens of the Edo period and one of the top three gardens in Japan (the other two are Kairaku-en in Mito, and Kōraku-en in Okayama).
The name (kenroku means 'combined six') refers to a renowned garden from Sung-dynasty China that required six attributes for perfection: seclusion, spaciousness, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views (on clear days you can see to the Sea of Japan). In 1676 Kenroku-en started as the garden of an outer villa of Kanazawa-jō, but later it was enlarged to serve the castle itself, reaching completion in the early 19th century; the garden opened to the pub…
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Kanazawa-jō
Originally built in 1580, Kanazawa-jō housed the Maeda clan for 14 generations; this massive structure was called the castle of 1000 tatami. That castle was destroyed by fire, but some reconstruction has taken place inside its moated walls, now rechristened Kanazawa Castle Park (Kanazawa-jo Kōen). The elegant gate Ishikawa-mon, rebuilt in 1788, provides a dramatic entry from Kenroku-en; holes in its turret were designed for ishi-otoshi, hurling rocks at invaders.
Two additional buildings, the Hishi-yagura (diamond-shaped turret) and Gojikken-Nagaya (armoury) were reconstructed in 2001, offering a glimpse of the castle's unique wood-frame construction.
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Myōryū-ji
The temple Myōryū-ji is a five-minute walk from the river. Completed in 1643, it was designed as a hideout in case of attack, and contains hidden stairways, escape routes, secret chambers, concealed tunnels and trick doors. The popular name refers to the temple's connection with ninja (practitioners of the art of stealth). Admission is by tour only - it's in Japanese but visual enough. To reach the temple, take Minami Ō-dōri across the river, take a left at the first major intersection, then the first right.
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21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
Designed by the acclaimed Tokyo architecture firm SANAA, this ultramodern museum opened in late 2004 and instantly became an 'it' building. A low-slung glass cylinder, 113m in diameter, forms the perimeter, and inside galleries and auditoria are arranged like boxes on a tray. Nongallery portions of the building are open daily from 9am to 10pm.
Oh yes, there's art too: temporary exhibits by leading contemporary artists from Japan and abroad, plus occasional music and dance performances. Check the website for events; admission charges may increase up to ¥1000 during special exhibitions.
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Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Products & Crafts
Behind Seison-kaku, this museum is not flashy but offers fine displays of over 20 regional crafts. Pick up the free English-language headphone guide.
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Sakuda Gold Leaf Company
The Sakuda Gold Leaf Company is a good place to observe the kinpaku (gold leaf) process and pick up gilded souvenirs (including pottery, lacquerware and, er, golf balls). The tea served here contains flecks of gold leaf, meant to be good for rheumatism. Even the walls of the loos are lined with gold and platinum.
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Shinise Kinenkan
Towards the Sai-gawa, Shinise Kinenkan offers a peek at a former pharmacy and, upstairs, a moderate assortment of local traditional products. If the flowering tree made entirely of candy gives you a sweet tooth, slake it at Murakami, a handsome wagashi (Japanese candy) shop next to the Nomura samurai house.
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Nakamura Memorial Museum
Rotating exhibitions from the 600-piece collection of this museum usually include chanoyu (tea ceremony) utensils, calligraphy and traditional crafts from the collection of a wealthy sake brewer, Nakamura Eishun. You can enjoy a bowl of powdered tea for ¥100. Reached via a narrow flight of steps below the Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum.
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Ōmichō Market
A warren of several hundred shops and restaurants, many of which specialise in seafood, this market bustles all day and is a great place for a break from sightseeing and to watch everyday people in action. Ōmichō functions like the outer market of Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Market, but thanks to a recent makeover it's a lot more orderly and polished. It's between Katamachi district and Kanazawa Station. The nearest bus stop is Musashi-ga-tsuji.
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Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum
This museum specialises in antique exhibitions of traditional arts, with special emphasis on colourful Kutani porcelain, Japanese painting and Kaga yūzen (silk-dyed) fabrics and costumes. Admission prices are higher during special exhibitions.
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Honda Museum
The Honda family were chief retainers to the Maeda clan, and this museum exhibits the family collection of armour, household utensils and works of art. The bulletproof coat and the family vase are particularly interesting, and there's a detailed catalogue in English.
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Ōhi Pottery Museum
This museum was established by the Chōzaemon family, now in its 10th generation. The first Chōzaemon developed this style in nearby Ōhi village, using a special slow-fired amber glaze, specifically for use in chanoyu.
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Seison-Kaku Villa
Back in Kenroku-en is this stylish retirement villa, Seison-Kaku Villa, built by a Maeda lord for his mother in 1863. It's worth a visit for the elegant chambers and furnishings. A detailed English-language pamphlet is provided.
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Nagamachi Yūzen-kan
In a non-traditional building at the edge of the district, the Nagamachi Yūzen-kan allows you to watch the process of Kaga yūzen kimono-dyeing. Enquire about trying the silk-dyeing process yourself.
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Kutani Kosen Gama Kiln
The Kutani Kosen Gama Kiln is a must for pottery lovers. Short tours give visitors a glimpse of the process and history of this fine craft. You can decorate porcelain yourself.
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Gyokusen-en
For more intimacy and fewer crowds than Kenroku-en, this Edo-period garden rises up a steep slope. Enjoy a cup of tea here for an additional ¥700, while contemplating the tranquil setting.
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Shima
One famous, traditional former geisha house is Shima; note the case of elaborate combs and shamisen picks; it dates from 1820.
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Kaikarō
Kaikarō is an early-19th-century geisha house refinished with contemporary fittings and art including a red lacquered staircase.
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Nomura Samurai House
Nomura Samurai House, though partly transplanted from outside Kanazawa, is worth a visit for its decorative garden.
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Higashi-yu
On most nights you can visit the local sentō(public bath), Higashi-yu.
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Teramachi District
This hilly neighbourhood across Sai-gawa, southwest of the centre, was established as a first line of defence and contains dozens of temples. Myōryū-ji is a five-minute walk from the river. Completed in 1643, it was designed as a hideout in case of attack, and contains hidden stairways, escape routes, secret chambers, concealed tunnels and trick doors. The popular name refers to the temple's connection with ninja. Admission is by tour only – it's in Japanese but visual enough. Take Minami Ō-dōri across the river, take a left at the first major intersection, then the first right.
Nearby, Kutani Kosen Gama Kiln is a must for pottery lovers. Short tours give a glimpse o…
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Seison-kaku
Inside the park, Seison-kaku is a retirement villa built by a Maeda lord for his mother in 1863. Elegant chambers named for trees and animals are filled with furniture, clothing and furnishings. A detailed English-language pamphlet is available.
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Nagamachi District
Once inhabited by samurai, this attractive, well-preserved district (Nagamachi Buke Yashiki) framed by two canals features winding streets lined with tile-roofed mud walls. Nomura Samurai House, though partly transplanted from outside Kanazawa, is worth a visit for its decorative garden.
Towards Sai-gawa, Shinise Kinenkan offers a peek at a former pharmacy and, upstairs, a moderate assortment of local traditional products. If the flowering tree made entirely of candy gives you a sweet tooth, slake it at wagashi (Japanese sweet) shops. Tarō, near the Nomura Samurai House, makes unusual flavours of yōkan (bean-paste gelatin) – our favourite is choco. Murakami, across th…
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Kiriko Kaikan
A selection of the impressive illuminated lacquered floats used in the Wajima Taisai and other regional festivals is on display in this hall. Some of the floats are up to 15m tall. From Wajima Station, you can get there in 20 minutes on foot, or you can take the bus to Tsukada bus stop (¥150, six minutes).
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Kanazawa Phonograph Museum
Audio buffs will dig this museum of old-time phonographs (aka gramophones) and SP records. There are daily phonograph demonstrations at 11am, 2pm and 4pm.
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