Restaurants in Jamaica
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Toscanini
One of the finest restaurants on the island, this roadside spot is run by two gracious Italians who mix local ingredients into recipes from the motherland. The daily menu ranges widely, encompassing such appetizers as prosciutto with papaya or marinated marlin and mains like lobster pasta, or shrimp sautéed with garlic and Appleton rum. Leave room for desserts such as strawberry tart or apple and plum strudel. Treat yourself!
reviewed
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Scotchie’s
This roadside offshoot of the superlative jerk center in Montego Bay lies adjacent to an Epping Gas station just west of Dunn’s River Falls, where its pork, chicken and sausage water the mouths of locals and visitors alike.
reviewed
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Devon House I-Scream
For ice cream, head to Devon House I-Scream.
reviewed
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Pelican Bar
Built on a submerged sandbar 1km out to sea, this thatch-roofedeatery on stilts provides Jamaica’s – and perhaps the planet’s – most enjoyable spot for a drink. Getting there is half the fun: hire a local boat captain (you can book passage from Jake’s for US$30). The clientele is a mix of enchanted travelers and repeat-business fishermen who while away the hours playing dominoes, talking on their cell phones, checking the cricket scores or exchanging pleasantries with the self-satisfied owner. In between Red Stripes, or perhaps before your meal of lobster, shrimp or fish, feel free to slip into the salubrious waters for a dip.
reviewed
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B
3 Dives Jerk Centre
It’s no small tribute to 3 Dives that its jerk overshadows its reputation for lengthy waits (sometimes over an hour). Fortunately, the chefs are more than happy to let you peek into the kitchen, where there’s bound to be a pile of super-hot Scotch bonnet peppers threatening to spontaneously combust, and you can sip cheap Red Stripe on the cliffs at the end of a small garden. This is also the site of the annual Negril Jerk Festival.
reviewed
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Rick’s Café
You’ll join the touristy throng at this ever-popular West End institution. The somewhat pricey menu features steaks, fresh seafood and Cajun fare. The loud music precludes an intimate meal, but if you’re in the mood for a party – or a dip in the pool between courses – this place fits the bill. While you eat, local divers try to outdo each other from the 10m-tall cliffs.
reviewed
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Cosmo’s
A steadfast beach favorite with three thatched bars and dining areas near Long Bay Beach Park. Conch is the specialty here, whether steamed, curried or anchoring a hearty soup. Your host, Cosmo Brown, is also universally saluted for the pot of curried goat or oxtail that is perpetually simmering on the back burner.
reviewed
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Dragon Court
This is the best fine-dining option for Chinese cuisine in MoBay, located in the modern Fairview Shopping Centre. The menu is replete with Chinese standards with a few standouts including the tempting crispy duckling with plum sauce and ‘reggae fish,’ with pimentos and other Jamaican spices.
reviewed
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Royal Kitchen Vegetarian Café
This welcoming roadside I-tal eatery is popular with local Rastafarians and those who come to collect their pearls of wisdom. The fare – strictly vegetarian – is served on simple tables where you are sure to make friends with inquisitive passersby. The juices are especially good.
reviewed
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General Foods Supermarket
There’s a General Foods Supermarket and smaller grocery stores scattered along Main St. You can buy fresh produce at the produce market on the south side of DaCosta Dr near the clock tower.
reviewed
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Michelle’s Pizzeria
In addition to four styles of pizza (including a ‘Hawaiian’ with pineapple), this causal spot serves an array of pastas and hero sandwiches to be eaten on a small patio.
reviewed
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Mother’s
Mother’s, with several outlets, and Juici-Beef Patties are fast-food eateries serving patties and pastries (US$1).
reviewed
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Juici-Beef Patties
Mother’s, with several outlets, and Juici-Beef Patties are fast-food eateries serving patties and pastries (US$1).
reviewed
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Dor’s Fish Pot
On the A3, 1km east of town, is this lively yet rustic jerk and seafood eatery atop the breezy cliffs.
reviewed
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La Shanka Tavern
Opposite the market, this lively rum shop is good for a spirited game of dominoes.
reviewed
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Island Grill
Branch of the ubiquitous chain is good for take-out jerk dishes.
reviewed
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Dickie’s Best Kept Secret
Almost too well kept a secret for its own good, Dickie’s is an unsigned hut on the A4, less than 2km west of Port Antonio that offers enormous five-course meals in two small rooms perched over the sea. Dickie and his wife Joy promise to cook anything you want (provided they can get the ingredients). Invariably, the meal begins with a palate-cleansing fruit plate followed by soup and a callaloo omelette. Just when you think you can’t eat another bite, the main course – typically garlic lobster or fresh fish – arrives. Dickie’s has only a few tables, so reservations are essential. The owners serve no alcohol, but you may bring your own.
reviewed
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Country Style Bar
This brand-new place looks like it’s been around for eons. Owner/curator, Ansel Barrett, has filled every available nook and cranny with his delightful collection of bric-a-brac ranging from portraits of Robert Kennedy to preserved insects. The building itself is a casual masterpiece, extensively embellished with tile fragments and an offbeat assemblage of found objects. The main lounge is stylishly comfortable with a collection of vintage easy chairs and tables. A small beach looks out on an island to which you can kayak. The menu includes hearty breakfasts and a typical roster of Jamaican fare. You’ll find it just east of Coyaba Beach Resort.
reviewed
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Red Bones Blues Café
The in-crowd is in at this former colonial house, now a beehive of cultural and culinary activity. Inside, the shukka-shukka of martini shakers keeps time with the music, and the walls are beguilingly bedecked with photographs of jazz and blues legends. The food? Stellar dishes include chicken breast stuffed with callaloo and jerked cheddar in a white wine sauce, or the seafood trio of shrimp, mussels and salmon sautéed in a spicy coconut sauce served on a bed of pasta. Opt for patio dining overlooking the gardens or the handsome bar. Call ahead to snag a table – they’re in high demand. It also screens occasional art films in its garden.
reviewed
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Norma’s on the Terrace
Although its popularity seems to be on the wane outside the expense-account class, this lovechild of Jamaica’s leading food emissary Norma Shirley is Kingston’s most celebrated restaurant. The seasonal menu explores Caribbean-fusion food with great finesse. Recent gems include the smoked pork loin in teriyaki sauce, red snapper encrusted in herbs in a thyme-and-caper sauce and an exquisite seafood lasagna. Creative salads and desserts (try the English trifle) are not to be missed. Even if a meal is beyond your budget, it’s well worth having a drink on the candlelit terrace.
reviewed
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Houseboat Grill
Moored in Bogue Bay at Montego Bay Freeport, this converted houseboat is one of Jamaica’s top-notch restaurants. The changing menu offers eclectic Caribbean fusion cuisine such as spicy conch fritters with a rémoulade dipping sauce, or honey-soy-glazed, grilled tenderloin of beef with Chinese oyster sauce, and homemade ice cream. You can dine inside, or reclusively out on the moondeck. The bar draws the local middle class and is open until the last guest goes home. Reservations are strongly recommended on weekends.
reviewed
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Lion’s Den
West of town between Dolphin Cove and Dunn’s River Falls, this place looks like a tourist trap but it is worth a stop for the excellent, well-priced Jamaican fare and unique, artistic decor. The dining room resembles a Rastafarian chapel with hand-carved columns and wicker ‘tree limbs’ reaching to the ceiling. Outside on the patio, under a shady canopy of trees, you can spy on the goings-on at Dolphin Cove (bring binoculars). The menu boasts local specialties such as roast fish (US$6).
reviewed
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Gap Cafe Bed & Breakfast
On the hillside at 1280m near Hardwar Gap, just below the entrance to Holywell Recreation Area, the Gap Café Bed & Breakfast's cafe is a fabulous place to rest and take in the vistas over a soda or cappuccino. It offers dining either indoors or alfresco on a wooden terrace. A ‘Jamaican special’ breakfast costs US$12, and afternoon high tea is also served (US$25). The eclectic lunch menu includes curried Caribbean shrimp, smoked pork chops, curry goat and sandwiches. Dinner is by reservation only.
reviewed
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Jack Sprat Café
An excellent barefoot beachside eatery affiliated with Jake’s, this appealing joint features vintage reggae posters and an old jukebox as well as a lively bar scene that spills onto the tree-shaded patio. Jack Sprat warms to any crowd or time of day, and offers a diverse menu of sandwiches, salads, crabcakes, smoked marlin and lobster as well as excellent jerk or garlic shrimp. A superb array of pizzas is available at night, and every meal should end with some of the superb ice cream.
reviewed
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Café Aubergine
Also called Moneague Tavern, this restaurant is in a 250-year-old tavern 1km south of the small crossroads town of Moneague. Tasteful art, china and real silverware abound. The menu is written on parchment and consists of Mediterranean-influenced Jamaican nouvelle cuisine, such as crayfish Provençal, chicken in coconut curry sauce, and roast lamb Provençal. Leave room for the chocolate gateau. The cafe hosts an Oktoberfest Party with German fare. Reservations are required.
reviewed