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Introducing Negril & the West
In the 1970s, Negril lured hippies with its offbeat beach-life to a countercultural Shangri-la where anything goes. To some extent anything still goes here, but the innocence left long ago.
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To be sure, the gorgeous 11km-long swath of sand that is Long Beach is still kissed by the serene waters into which the sun melts every evening in a riot of color that will transfix even the most jaded. And the easily accessible coral reefs offer some of the best diving in the Caribbean. At night, rustic beachside music clubs keep the reggae beat going without the watered-down-for-tourist schmaltz that so often mars the hotspots of Montego Bay and Ocho Rios.
Yet these undeniable attractions have done just that – attract. In the last three decades, Negril has exploded as a tourist venue, and today the beach can barely be seen from Norman Manley Blvd for the intervening phalanx of beachside resorts. And with tourism comes the local hustle – you’re very likely to watch the sunset in the cloying company of a ganja dealer or an aspiring tour-guide-cum-escort.
The less-developed West End lies on the cliffs slightly to the south of Long Beach. Here smaller, more characterful hotels mingle with intimate jerk shacks and lively bars, and it’s much easier to mix with locals without the perpetual sense of just being seen as an extension of your wallet. The sunset’s just as magnificent from the cliffs, and you’ll probably get a better idea of what Negril was like 40 years ago.
Last updated: Oct 20, 2009
