Cinchona Gardens

The cultivation of Assam tea and cinchona (whose quinine – extracted from the bark – was used to fight malaria) led to the founding of Cinchona in 1868. The grounds were later turned into a garden to supply Kingston with flowers. In 1903 the Jamaican government leased Cinchona to the New York Botanical Gardens and, later, to the Smithsonian Institute. Today, the gardens are a little run down, but it’s really the fabulous views that lure you up the 1370m. To the north stand the peaks, but you can also peer down into the valleys of the Clyde, Green and Yallahs Rivers. A dilapidated old house full of weathered antiques sits atop the 2.5-hectare gardens, fronted by lawns and exquisite floral beds. The Panorama Walk begins to the east of the gardens, leading through a glade of towering bamboo and opening to staggering views. Half a dozen other tracks snake off into the nether reaches of the mountains, including the 16km Vinegar Hill Trail, which winds its way to Buff Bay. If you’ve come with a sleeping bag, you can spend the night (US$8): claim a spot on the floor in the main house or set up camp on the grounds. Finding Cinchona is difficult and highly unadvisable without a guide. From Clydesdale continue uphill along the muddy dirt track for about 3km. There are several unmarked junctions; you’ll undoubtedly take some wrong turns and need to backtrack. Ask at every opportunity. Don’t underestimate the awful road conditions, with ruts deep enough to hang up your chassis and leave your wheels spinning in thin air. A 4WD with low-gear option is absolutely essential. Far easier is a more direct and populated route via Mavis Bank; you’ll still need to ask directions.