After tragically losing her father on the Titanic , heiress Peggy Guggenheim befriended Dadaists, dodged Nazis and changed art history at her palatial home on the Grand Canal.
Far from clubby pubs lining Venice's alleyways, A Beccafico basks in the sunshine of Campo Santo Stefano and open Venetian admiration. Instead of cold seafood on toast, Chef Adeli serves Sicily-size bowls of mussels under a bubbling, flaky crust. He defies Venice's cardinal rule never to mix lagoon seafood with cheese, serving squid-ink pasta with lemon zest and ricotta.
Caterina and Giovanna's old bakery has been transformed into a warm, modern space with nary a garish Murano trinket in sight.
Father-son maestri Francesco and Matteo invent Venice’s best cicheti daily with Rialto Market finds. Behind marble counters, Francesco wraps poached Bassano white asparagus with seasoned pancetta, while Matteo creates otrega (butterfish) crudo with mint–olive oil marinade and Hawaiian red-clay salt.
Venetians can't catch a train without a pit stop at this aromatic shopfront lined with brass-knobbed coffee bins. Since 1930, Venice's Marchi family has been importing speciality beans, roasted fresh daily in a washtub-size roaster behind the marble bar and ground to order.
Gianni Basso doesn't advertise his letterpressing services: the clever calling cards crowding his studio window do the trick. Restaurant critic Gale Greene’s title is framed by a knife and fork, and Hugh Grant’s moniker appears next to a surprisingly tame lion. Bring cash to commission business cards, ex-libris, menus or invitations, and trust Signor Basso to deliver via post.
Float past the beautiful palaces and bridges of Venice on a 35-minute Venice gondola ride and enjoy a serenade, too. Select an afternoon or evening ride, and then see the sights of the city from the impressive Grand Canal.
Experience the majestic cities, subtle landscapes and friendly villages of the Veneto by bike
The next best thing to walking on water: rowing a sandolo (Venetian boat) standing up like gondoliers do, with Australian-Venetian rowing coach Jane Caporal.