Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Scuola Grande di San Rocco
Everyone wanted the commission to paint this building dedicated to the patron saint of the plague-stricken, so Tintoretto cheated:...
Chiesa di San Rocco
Originally built by Bartolomeo Bon in 1489–1508, this church got a baroque facelift in 1765–71 with a grand portal flanked by Giovanni...
Caffè dei Frari
Take your espresso with a heaping of history at this century-old carved wooden bar, or recover from the sensory overload of I Frari with...
Dire B&B breakfasts with packaged croissants are corrected at Tonolo, which serves flaky apfelstrudel (apple pastry), velvety bignè...
Lonely Planet review
This soaring Italian-brick Gothic church features marquetry choir stalls, Canova's pyramid mausoleum, Bellini's achingly sweet Madonna with Child triptych in the sacristy, and Longhena's creepy Doge Pesaro funereal monument hoisted by burly slaves bursting from ragged clothes like Incredible Hulks – yet visitors are inevitably drawn to the small altarpiece.
This is Titian's 1518 Assumption, in which a radiant Madonna in a Titian-red cloak reaches heavenward, steps onto a cloud and escapes this mortal coil. Both inside and outside the painting, onlookers gasp and point out at the sight; Titian outdid himself here, upstaging his own 1526 Pesaro Altarpiece near the entry. Titian was lost to the plague in 1576, but legend has it that strict rules of quarantine were bent to allow his burial near his masterpiece.