The free-standing bell tower behind it leans disconcertingly, but this soaring brick Gothic church has stood since 1325, even though a subterranean canal runs right under the inlaid wood choir stalls. Credit for ship-shape splendour goes to architect Bartolomeo Bon for the marble entry portal and to Venetian shipbuilders, who constructed the vast wood-ribbed carena di nave (ship’s keel) ceiling that looks like an upturned Noah’s Ark.

Enter the cloisters museum to see Canova’s 1808 funerary stelae featuring gorgeous women dabbing their eyes with their cloaks, Tullio Lombardo’s wide-eyed 1505 saint, and three brooding Tintoretto canvases: Last Supper, with a ghostly dog begging for bread; the gathering gloom of Agony in the Garden; and the abstract, mostly black Washing of the Feet.