Chiesa di Santo Stefano

This Gothic church has a bell tower that leans disconcertingly and a vast wood-ribbed carena di nave (ship’s hull) ceiling that looks like an upturned Noah’s ark. Enter the cloisters museum (admission €3 or Chorus Pass) to see Canova’s 1808 funerary stelae featuring gorgeous women dabbing their eyes with their mourning cloaks, Tulio Lombardo’s wide-eyed 1505 saint that Titian is said to have referenced for his Assunta at I Frari, and three brooding Tintoretto canvases: Last Supper, with a ghostly dog begging for bread; the gathering gloom of Agony in the Garden; and the almost-abstract, mostly black Washing of the Feet.