Palazzo Grassi

Paris is still burning with indignation over French luxury goods magnate François Pinault’s decision to host world-class art exhibitions and works from his own standout collection of contemporary art collection not in a Paris suburb, but in a baroque Grand Canal palace. But just have a look around at the 2005 gallery renovation, and even the most patriotic Parisian could hardly blame the guy. Giorgio Massari’s 1749 neoclassical palace has become a glorious anachronism in the hands of minimalist architect Tadao Ando, whose movable panels, backlit scrims, and strategic pools of light allow viewers to focus on illuminating art and ideas without eclipsing frescoed ceilings and marble arcades. Expect sublime curation and shameless name-dropping: Pinault regularly parks sculpture by the likes of Jeff Koons on the dock out front, and in 2009 celebrated his marriage with Salma Hayek at the Grassi among A-list guests Bono, Charlize Theron, Ed Norton and Javier Bardem. You’ll see more constellations of contemporary art stars at the PuntadellaDogana, ancient customs houses renovated by Ando and relaunched in 2009 as a permanent showcase for Pinault’s collection of more than 2000 artworks.