Ziggurats of cayenne, leaning towers of star anise and chorus lines of spotlit olive oils attract crowds of awestruck foodies to Drogheria Mascara’s windows. Indoors, customers clutch tiny jars of white truffles like holy relics, and staff help dazed first-timers navigate the selection of Sicilian capers and 50 kinds of aromatic honeys. For memorable small-production Italian wines at €10 to €30 – including Veneto cult winemakers like Quintarelli – don’t miss the backroom enoteca (wine bar).