Accessory shopping in Venice
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Il Pavone di Fabio Pelosin
Baccalà mantecato (Venice’s signature fish pâté) is bound to come out better when captured in a handmade recipe book stamped with Venetian Gothic architectural patterns. Il Pavone’s recipe books, travel logs and day planners are printed with traces of metallic pigments, but don’t just judge them by their shimmering covers. Inside they’re well organised with tabs and headings for meal planning, trip highlights and upcoming birthdays.
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B
Davinia Design
Less is more at this working studio of simple, dramatic Murano brick-red glass pendants and cufflinks that look like tiny sea urchins clinging to your wrists. You’ll usually find transplanted Belgian artisan Davinia at work here fashioning clever, understated daisy stud earrings that look more elegant but cost less than flowery fantasias you’ll find around Piazza San Marco – there’s a good range from €19 to €37.
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C
Margerie
Big silver studs wind their way over the smooth, stout leather in sky-blue or blood-red handbags. Some are shaped like fish or hearts, others are cuddly soft, still more are draped in great golden ribbons. Flower motifs abound. A key note is the almost childlike happy feeling they exude and much the same can be said of the chunky necklaces (again often with big, bright flowers, or even pompoms) and stuffed felt pins with sequins.
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D
Monica Daniele
Ms Daniele is a hatter with a hint of madness. Hats pile up in crooked towers on the counter, behind the windows and in boxes on shelves. There's no room to swing a cat for all the hats: straw hats, floppy hats, fluffy hats, sun hats, berets and bonnets! And just to unnerve you a little, there hangs the odd example of the heavy woollen Venetian cape (that few Venetians wear anymore) known as the tabarro.
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E
Mondonovo Maschere
One of Venice's master mask-makers, Guerrino Lovato, runs this higgledy-piggledy store, producing fine facial disguises for all and sundry, including, as he is not too bashful to point out, some of the models used by the late Stanley Kubrick for his last movie, Eyes Wide Shut.
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F
Il Grifone
A virtually décor-free shopfront disguises this one-man leather workshop where you can get to grips with quality handmade bags, belts, wallets and other leather objects for quite reasonable prices.
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Bevilacqua (workshop)
TV dens become grand salons with Venetian swagger at Bevilacqua, producers of Venetian brocades, damasks, and silken tassels since 1800. Fabrics are woven in time-honoured fashion at its workshop.
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H
Mazzon Le Borse
A modest workshop with none of the frippery of fashion lairs, Mazzon le Borse is frequented by canny Venetian women on the lookout for top-class, handmade leather bags and accessories.
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I
Shary
In one window dangles a row of generous, wide ties in demanding primal and pastel colours, while in the other you'll find slinky scarves in the same kaleidoscopic array of colours.
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Ca' del Sole
Although much of what is on sale here is aimed at the theatre business, anyone can purchase a fantasy in this House of the Sun. The masks are of a high standard.
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