Al Covo

All the markings of a classic Venetian trattoria – low-beamed ceilings, exposed brick wall, regulars installed in the corner – but with twists on typical dishes. Caprese salad gets the Covo treatment with basil and mozarella di buffala served with a heavenly cherry tomato gelée, squid-ink pasta with clams and squash blossoms, and Adriatic tuna with five sauces. Prices are understandable given top-quality, lagoon-fresh ingredients, and offset by reasonably priced, limited-production wine. Venice Marathon runners will appreciate the abundant €47 prix-fixe menu: primo, main, dessert/cheese and cover.