-
Caffè Dei Frari O Toppo
More than a century-old, coming here is taking a leap back in time. On a cold winter's day especially, there's nothing better than sinking into a cushioned bench behind a tiny round table and hugging a hot cuppa, an afternoon spritz or wine and the paper.
-
Caffè Del Doge
Long a coffee-roasting workshop, this is now a gourmet coffee-tasting spot. The creamy décor and sometimes-loud music might not appeal, but the brew is sublime. Italian coffee is good but here it goes one better. Have a Guatemala Huehuetenango espresso (around €2.70 ) and taste the difference.
-
Caffè Quadri
Quadri is in much the same league as Florian, and it's equally steeped in history. Indeed, it opened its doors well before its better known competitor, in 1683. In the days of the Austrian occupation, it was the Austrians' favourite hangout on the square (they weren't made to feel particularly welcome at Florian's). The first-floor dining area is a luxury trip, all dripping chandeliers, baroque mirrors and heavy wall hangings.
-
Cantina Do Mori
Back in 1462 they started selling wine in this dark tavern near the Ponte di Rialto, and they've been doing it ever since (except for a few years in the 16th century when fire and plague wrought havoc). The place has operated as an osteria - offering a range of snacks - since the 1940s. Oozing history, it still attracts a lot of local custom in spite of rising prices. Don't bump your head on the pots hanging from the ceiling.
-
Da Fiore
The unprepossessing shopfront appearance belies an Art Deco interior and traditional dishes, such as risotto di scampi (prawn risotto) and bigoli in salsa (thick pasta in tomato sauce), prepared with optimum care. They need to be. Once praised by Patricia Wells as one of the finest eateries in Italy and one of only two in Venice to have a Michelin star, Da Fiore risks all by pushing prices to the stars.
-
Da Marisa
You may need to work up some Italian credentials to squeeze in (it's popular). If you get in, expect robust, no-nonsense meat-based cooking (Da Marisa is near the former abattoir but seems to have taken no notice of its demise). Duck, pheasant and lamb dishes take prominence. The occasional fish and seafood option is available.
-
Da Tiziano
A popular spot with locals for cicheti and an ombra or two, this corner restaurant is also worth a stop for the pizza, whipped up by a Neapolitan cook and served to you at dark timber tables.
-
Do Farai
Hidden away on a calle (street) you are less likely to stumble upon, this busy seafood restaurant is compacted into a timber-panelled room where you can sample such delights as the tris di saor sarde, scampi e sogliole (sardines, prawns and sole in the typical Venetian saor sauce). Prices are a trifle elevated.
-
Enoteca Il Volto
Near Campiello San Luca, this osteria (restaurant-bar, established 1936) has an excellent wine selection (more than 1000 labels according to one claim). Tipple in hand, proceed to choose from the tempting array of snacks, which no doubt will induce you to hang about for another glass.
-
Fiaschetteria Toscana
A classic that has long maintained quality, the Fiaschetteria Toscana is about as Tuscan as a gondola. Here they serve up solid Venetian food, washed down with a choice of wines from an impressive national tippling list. The frittura della Serenissima , a mixed fried-seafood platter, is memorable. Leave room for Mariuccia's home-made desserts, especially the rovesciata, a rich upside-down apple-and-caramel concoction. If money is a consideration, drop by for the lunchtime specials.
-
Advertisement
-
Gam Gam
Gam Gam is great for your taste buds if you like Israeli-style falafels (around €5.50 ) and other Middle Eastern delicacies. This place is fully kosher and presents a diverse menu, from Red Sea spaghetti to couscous (with choice of meat, fish or vegetable sauce).
-
Ganesh Ji
Fancy a quick curry? Forget it. But a good slow one can be had on the canalside terrace of this place. Charmingly chaotic staff members serve up authentic dishes at reasonable prices - particularly pleased guests have scribbled their appreciation on the walls. The place also offers a vegetarian lunch menu (around €12 ) and a nonvegetarian lunch option (around €14.50 ). Chuck in a €2.50 cover charge.
-
Gelateria Paolin
Not a bad place at all for gelato (ice-cream), it is even better for a relaxing breakfast in the morning sunshine. A limited range of toasted sandwiches is on offer, the orange juice is good, and instead of a straightforward coffee you could opt for the more gluttonous bicerin, a marvellous Turin speciality: coffee and chocolate combo topped off with thick cream.
-
Harry's Dolci
This place is run by the Cipriani clan of Harry's Bar fame and has tables by the Canale della Giudecca looking across to Venice. The fantastic desserts and pastries are the main attraction. Should you want a full meal, you'll be accommodated but at a price.
-
Hostaria Da Franz
Known in Venice as home to one of the best tiramisus in the world, Da Franz is also a phenomenal seafood stop (trying to get a table here during the Biennale is impossible). Two dishes spring to mind: the melt-in-mouth seppie (cuttlefish) prepared in black ink, and the anguila (eel), prepared according to grandma's secret recipes as a grilled fillet - surprising and delicious.
-
Iguana
The low, wooden-beamed ceiling makes for a warm atmosphere at this Venetian excursion into South American food. The burritos, tacos, quesadillas (filled and fried tortillas) and other Latin American specialities are OK. Some people just show up for tequila at the bar, and if enough folks hunker down, it may stay open a little later. There's a drinks happy hour from to and live bands on Thursdays at .
-
Il Refolo
This place is a firm favourite for quality pizza, especially in summer when you can take up a position along the peaceful canal (and hang out until , although the last pizzas roll out at ). Run by the son of the owners of Da Fiore, the restaurant's other big plus is the divine homemade desserts.
-
La Favorita
For lashings of excellent seafood in a pleasing, relaxed setting, this is one of the best spots on this long and gastronomically meagre island. In the warmer months you can sit outside.
-
La Palanca
You'll be competing with locals on their lunch-break for a canalside table looking across to Dorsoduro at this very popular spot. First course of pasta (around €6 to around €8 ) might include tagliolini ai calamaretti (a narrow ribbon pasta with tiny calamari). Your host Andrea will make suggestions on the main course.
-
Linea D'ombra
A good catch for fish and even better for the location. Grab a seat on the generous pontoon set out from the footpath and gaze over the Canale della Giudecca while getting stuck into some tender fish of the day. Some tables are set aside for drinking only, grand for an early afternoon tipple in the summer sun.
-
Advertisement
-
Mirai
What a surprise - halfway decent Japanese food in Venice. Sure, the Venetians have their own way with fish, but sometimes sushi and sashimi is the way to go. Strange that it should be alone in a city renowned for its Eastern-languages faculty! The ambience is a chilled modern-design affair (completely renovated in 2006).
-
Mistrà
Grab a table at the back for wonderful views south over the lagoon. Located among the workshops of a major boatyard, this is a suitably maritime setting for great seafood, with a combination of local dishes and a few Ligurian imports (such as pesto). At lunchtime you can join the shipwrights for a cheaper midday meal. To get here, look for No 211 on Fondamenta di San Giacomo and pass down the narrow passage beside it. Follow the signs.
-
Naranzaria
East meets West in this hip corner bistro with sushi and Venetian-style cicheti, along with light summer dishes. Swilled down with fine local and Friuli wines, this microscopically sized locale with cool ambient music adds a metro touch to the Rialto market bustle. Grab a table upstairs in winter or a canalside position in summer. (The Naranzaria was long the orange market. Oranges were prized by mariners not for making juice but as a preventive measure against scurvy while at sea.)
-
Ostaria Al Ponte
On the 'frontier' with Sestiere di Castello is this aptly named and highly recommended snack joint. Enter the bright red doors and sidle up to the bar to nibble on cicheti and indulge in good wines. Or settle in at one of the couple of tables. Locals hang about in here, chatting vociferously and sipping their ombre .
-
Osteria Ae Cravate
Ties hang from the roof and every conceivable nook in this tiny place (so that explains the name). The menu changes regularly, and they don't need publicity to fill the cramped tables! The fusilli agli asparagi e scampi (green asparagus and shrimps) might be followed by a saltimbocca alla romana (veal slices cooked with ham and, in this case, spinach).
