Like a friend of the family, you'll be seated where there's room and get no menu. You'll have whatever Marisa's cooking, but you will be informed that the menu is meat- or fish-based when you book, and house wine is included in the price. Venetian regulars confess Marisa's fegato alla veneziana (Venetian calf's liver) is better than their grandmothers', while fish nights bring hauls of lagoon seafood grilled, fried and perched atop pasta and rocket.