Lurking surreptitiously behind the kiosk-strewn tourist thoroughfare to the Rialto is this backstreet bacaro that dates from 1462 but doesn’t look a day over five centuries old, with gleaming, gargantuan copper pots hanging rather ominously overhead and incongruously dinky, dainty sandwiches called francobolli (postage stamps). Make sure to arrive early for the best selection of cicheti (€3 to €4) and local gossip (free).