Things to do in Orvieto
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Orvieto Cathedral
Confoundingly beautiful, the cathedral is otherworldly in its striped magnificence. Started in 1290, it was originally planned in the Romanesque style, but as work proceeded and architects changed, it became more Gothic. The black-and-white marble banding of the main body of the church is surpassed and complemented by the dancing polychrome colours of the façade. Pope Urban IV commissioned the cathedral to celebrate the Miracle of Bolsena in 1263, but it took 30 years to plan and three centuries to complete. It was probably started by Fra Bevignate and later additions were made by Lorenzo Maitani, Andrea Pisano and his son Nino Pisano, Andrea Orcagna and Michele Sanicheli…
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Crocifisso del Tufo Etruscan Necropolis
Besides the Hypogea di Volumni outside of Perugia, the Crocifisso del Tufo Etruscan Necropolis is one of only two Etruscan necropolises that travellers can visit in Umbria. It dates back to the mid-6th century BC. Several series of burial chambers feature the etched names of their deceased residents. The manner in which the graves are laid out shows the preciseness of good ancient urban planning, albeit one whose residents couldn't quite appreciate it.
Many of the furnishings from the Necropolis can be found at the Louvre, British Museum and various other museums, though some of the collection hasn't left: the Museo Claudio Faina e Civico still holds onto a good chunk.
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Orvieto Underground
The coolest place in Orvieto, in degrees and atmosphere, is Orvieto Underground. Underneath the city, the rock is riddled with 440 caves, which have been used for millennia for various purposes. Tours (with English-speaking guides) take you through caverns variously used as WWII bomb shelters, refrigerators, wells and, during many a siege, dovecotes to trap pigeons for dinner (still seen on local restaurant menus as palombo ).
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Cappella del Corporale
The Cappella del Corporale houses the blood-stained altar linen of the miracle, preserved in a silver reliquary decorated by artists of the Sienese school. The walls feature frescoes depicting the miracle, painted by Ugolino di Prete Ilario. Mass is celebrated here daily at 09:00 (in Italian). Tickets for the Cappella di San Brizio are available from the tourist office; both capella are closed during Mass.
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La Badia Ristorante
The restaurant at La Badia is as refined as its hotel. The chef's speciality is suckling pig and tagliolini pasta with truffles. If you enjoy the Orvieto Classico here, tell the owner, Count Fiumi, as it's from his vineyards. Even if you don't stay or eat here, you can still see it; when you're in the Orvieto Underground, look for the 8th-century abbey in the fields below.
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Cappella di San Brizio
Inside the Cappella di San Brizio, Luca Signorelli’s fresco cycle The Last Judgement shimmers with life. Look for it to the right of the altar. Signorelli began work on the series in 1499, and Michelangelo is said to have taken inspiration from it. Indeed, to some, Michelangelo’s masterpiece runs a close second to Signorelli’s work.
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Pozzo di San Patrizio (St Patrick's Well)
To the north of La Rocca, the Pozzo di San Patrizio is a testament to the hardy disposition of the townsfolk. More than 60m deep, it is lined by two staircases for water-bearing mules and a Latin inscription reading: 'What nature denied for defence, in this case water, was added by the work of man'. It was sunk in 1527 on the orders of Pope Clement VII.
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Palazzo del Gusto
This Etruscan subterranean wine-cellar is as infused with atmosphere as it is with yeast. Several tunnels have been redecorated for wine tastings and parties. Peek behind the glass doors for a look at ancient Etruscan tunnels. Check with the tourist office if one of the cellar’s many weekend events are open to the public.
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Via Garibaldi
Despite being a tourist town, Orvieto still has plenty of shops selling decent ceramics, lace and delicious sample packs of local wines, sausage, olive oil, cheeses and funghi (mushroom) products. Via Garibaldi is a pedestrian shopping street with as many clothiers as ceramicists.
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Teatro Mancinelli
The Teatro Mancinelli plays host to Umbria Jazz in winter but offers everything from ballet and opera to folk music and Pink Floyd tributes throughout the year. If you’re not able to catch a performance, it’s worth a visit to see the allegorical frescoes and tufa walls.
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Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, housed in the former papal palaces, boasts a clutter of religious relics, as well as Etruscan antiquities and paintings by artists such as Simone Martini, Arnolfo di Cambio, and the three Pisanos: Andrea, Nino and Giovanni.
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Le Grotte del Funaro
Eating here, you'll think you have died and gone to…well, a funerary cave. This restaurant was created out of a cavern and drips with atmosphere. There's an amazing view through the narrow windows, as well as antique agricultural objects and a piano bar.
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Ristorante Zeppelin
With high, arched ceilings and an old-fashioned feel, this jazz-cool restaurant produces creative Umbrian food. Expect delicate ravioli combined with ingredients such as sage and almonds, and a dazzling array of rich, meaty secondi (second courses).
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Museo Claudio Faina e Civico
In the Palazzo Papale, you can visit the interesting Museo Claudio Faina e Civico, where you’ll find some significant Greek ceramic works, mostly found near Piazza Cahen in tombs dating to the 6th century BC.
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Caffè Montanucci
An affable one-stop shop for cocktails, espresso, gelato, panini, internet access and the best part: the wall o' chocolate. Hundreds of bars from all over the world congregate around a few tables, causing plenty of passing mouths to water.
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Ristorante I Sette Consoli
Foodies have been known to flock here from Rome or Milan just for lunch. With dishes like pan-fried pigeons with caramelized grapes, it’s no wonder it’s considered a leader in nouvelle cuisine. Reservations highly recommended for dinner.
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Museo di Emilio Greco
Museo di Emilio Greco displays a collection of modern pieces donated by the creator of the cathedral's bronze doors. You can get a combined ticket (adult/child around €6.50/4) for admission to the Pozzo di San Patrizio.
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Chiesa di Sant’Andrea
In Piazza della Repubblica, once the site of Orvieto’s Roman Forum and later the heart of the medieval city, stands the 12th-century Chiesa di Sant’Andrea with its curious decagonal bell tower.
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Leo Pretelli
English-speaking with an infectious joie de vivre, Leo is like your long-lost Umbrian uncle who knows every tiny off-the-beaten-path restaurant and viewpoint. Perfect for a designated driver at Umbria's 40-plus wineries.
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Sosta
This extremely simple self-service restaurant serves up decent pizza and pasta. It is cafeteria style so you order as much or as little as you like, including meat and vegetable dishes. Students get a discount.
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The Road to Rome
9 days (Orvieto)
Journey by foot along the last section of the old pilgrimage route across Europe to Rome.
Not LP reviewed
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Cantina Foresi
Under the shadow of the duomo, yet surprisingly reasonable, this family-run enoteca (wine bar) serves simple panini (bread rolls) and sausages, washed down with local wine.
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Museo Archeologico Nazionale
In the Palazzo Papale you can see one of Italy’s most important collections of Etruscan archaeological artefacts in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale.
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Vinosus
In photo-op range of the cathedral’s northwest wall is this wine bar and eatery. Try the cheese platter with local honey for an elegant addition to wine. Open until the wee hours.
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Pasqualetti
This gelateria serves mouth-watering gelato , plus there are plenty of tables on the piazza for you to gaze at the magnificence of the cathedral while you gobble.
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