Things to do in Gubbio
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Fontana dei Pazzi
In the western end of the medieval section is the 13th-century Palazzo del Bargello, the city’s medieval police station and prison. In front of it is the Fontana dei Pazzi (Fountain of Lunatics), so-named because of a belief that if you walk around it three times, you will go mad. On summer weekends the number of tourists actually carrying out this bizarre ritual is indeed cause for concern about their collective sanity.
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Funivia Colle Eletto
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Museo Diocesano
Next door to the Palazzo Ducale is the Museo Diocesano, a winding homage to Gubbio’s medieval history.
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Leo Grilli Arte
In the Middle Ages, ceramics were one of Gubbio’s main sources of income and there are some fabulous contemporary samples on sale in this crumbly 15th-century mansion.
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Cathedral
Walk up Via Ducale to a triumvirate of ancientness, the 13th-century pink cathedral, with a fine 12th-century stained-glass window and a fresco attributed to Bernardino Pinturicchio.
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Palazzo Ducale
The 15th-century Palazzo Ducale was built by the Duke of Montefeltro’s family as a scaled-down version of their grand palazzo in Urbino; its walls hide an impressive Renaissance courtyard.
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Teatro Romano
Southwest of Piazza Quaranta Martiri, off Viale del Teatro Romano, are the overgrown remains of a 1st-century Teatro Romano. In the summer, check with the tourist office about outdoor concerts held here.
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Ristorante Fabiani
This is a fabulous spot to sit on a back patio and enjoy the garden for a few hours. The selection here is vast, and there is a rotating €15 tourist menu or a €20 menù gastronomico of whatever is in season. Stop in on Thursday or Friday for the fish specials.
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Museo Civico
The Palazzo dei Consoli houses the Museo Civico, which displays the Eugubian Tablets, discovered in 1444. The seven bronze tablets are the main source for research into the ancient Umbrian language. Upstairs is a picture gallery featuring works from the Gubbian school.
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Taverna del Lupo
Il Lupo was the wolf that St Francis domesticated, a wolf that supposedly came back to this restaurant to dine. He made an excellent choice. The atmosphere is sophisticated, if a bit stiff, and diners will feel more comfortable smartly dressed. Most ingredients are locally produced in the surrounding Apennines, including cheese, truffles and olive oil. Set aside at least two hours for a meal.
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Ristorante La Fornace di Mastro Giorgio
Named after Gubbio’s most famous medieval ceramicist (whose oven still graces one of the restaurant’s ancient walls), Mastro Giorgio is our favourite place for a special occasion (not just for the 500-item wine list, either). The seasonal menu includes modern takes on traditional dishes: venison carpaccio wrapped with salt, olive oil and asparagus, and the signature dish is a stinco (veal shank) stewed to falling-off-the-bone perfection.
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Museo della Ceramica a Lustro e Torre Medioevale di Porta Romana
Just below the Funivia Colle Eletto is the Museo della Ceramica a Lustro e Torre Medioevale di Porta Romana. The a lustro ceramic style has its origins in 11th-century Muslim Spain. On the 2nd floor, ceramics from prehistoric times share space with medieval and Renaissance pieces. There’s also a collection of crossbows from the 18th century, some of which have a target range as far as 50m. Check out the really unfun-looking chastity belt on the 4th floor and appreciate the fact that you are alive today instead of 300 years ago.
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