Entertainment in Umbria & Le Marche
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Caffè Meletti
From the shade of the ancient portico you can sip a coffee or the famous anisette as you gaze onto the perfect Italian piazza. Or sit inside to enjoy the statuesque carved wood stairway and bar. It was once a popular spot for the likes of Ernest Hemingway and Jean-Paul Sartre. The cafe, founded in 1907, fell into disrepair but has since been completely restored to its former glory.
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Lunabar
Atmospherically equidistant between New York and Umbria, the city centre lounge off Corso Vannucci spins together frescoed, Venetian plaster walls with a grey and onyx bar and space-age restrooms. Smokers enjoy their own room and the hungry will appreciate the good aperitivo (happy hour snacks) selection.
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Bottega del Vino
A fire or candles burn atmospherically on the terrace, while inside, live jazz and hundreds of bottles of wine lining the walls add to the romance of the setting. You can taste dozens of Umbrian wines, which you can purchase with the help of sommelier-like experts.
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Arena Sferisterio
One of Europe’s most stunning outdoor theatres is the Arena Sferisterio, which resembles an ancient Roman arena but was built between 1819 and 1829. Between 15 July and 15 August every year it’s a venue for the Stagione Lirica, one of Italy’s most prestigious musical events, which attracts big operatic names. In late June every year, the arena plays host to the finals of the Musicultura competition for talented, up-and-coming singer/songwriters as well as a famous guest singer (tickets €5 to €30).
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Enoteca Properzio
Umbrian wineries aren’t usually open to the public, so one of the only chances visitors have of tasting several wines at once without breaking the bank (or getting sloshed) is to stop off at an enoteca in town. And there’s no better place in Umbria to do so than here, where for €30 you can try a half-dozen Umbrian wines while snacking on cheese, prosciutto and bruschetta. For €144, this enoteca will ship a dozen bottles abroad.
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Paolo Bea
On the road out of Bevagna heading towards Spoleto, stop by Paolo Bea for a true tasting experience. The family creates four special wines, which you can taste along with homemade bruschetta and crostini. They also sell their own olive oil and Parmesan. During the summer, a harp player entertains visitors on Sunday. The winery is also open when the owners are home and not busy.
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Palazzo del Gusto
This Etruscan subterranean wine-cellar is as infused with atmosphere as it is with yeast. Several tunnels have been redecorated for wine tastings and parties. Peek behind the glass doors for a look at ancient Etruscan tunnels. Check with the tourist office if one of the cellar’s many weekend events are open to the public.
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La Terrazza
Should you sit in the park and enjoy the view of the sun setting over the Umbrian hillside, or head into a darkened pub for a drink? Well, you can come here for both. On the back terrace of the building that houses the Coop and covered markets is this open-air bar, perfect for an evening aperitif.
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Teatro Mancinelli
The Teatro Mancinelli plays host to Umbria Jazz in winter but offers everything from ballet and opera to folk music and Pink Floyd tributes throughout the year. If you’re not able to catch a performance, it’s worth a visit to see the allegorical frescoes and tufa walls.
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Cinema Teatro del Pavone
Dating back to 1717, the grand theatre plays host to not only films but musical performances and special events. Stop by the lobby to pick up the indispensable Little Blue What-to-Do, a free guide to everything you’d ever want to know about visiting or living in Perugia.
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Liberty Cocktail Lounge
The hot spot in town, this art deco inspired cafe would have made Picasso feel right at home. Asian-influenced artwork, Tiffany glass lamps and a classy bohemian crowd will make you want to paint the scene and sell it as a framed poster. It’s off Piazza Kennedy.
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Solo Doc: SapordiVini
While away hours on a warm day outside at this café and bar under the Italian version of a tented harem. Bar tables and plush, low couches seat the young hip crowd as well as visitors. Or just stroll by and enjoy the piped-in jazz, dance or world music.
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Contrappunto
What was a jazz club now opens its doors to all sorts of music. Jazz jams are just on Wednesday, but try live rock on Thursday, disco on Friday and world-famous DJs on Saturdays. Food is available; try the huge antipasto plate for two to four people.
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Perugia Football Team
Perugia Calcio has been knocking back and forth between Serie A, B and C, and ticket availability goes up (or down) with the tide, as does the gossip, a favourite discussion topic for Perugia’s residents. Take bus 9, 11 or 13 to the stadium.
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Cinastik
Feel very much like you're on the Continent in this swanky hot spot. The downstairs is pumping with sultry music and the mixed drinks are flowing. The upstairs is a little quieter (make sure you check out the coolest bathrooms in Perugia).
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Teatro Rossini
The 400-year-old Teatro Rossini was renamed in the composer’s honour, and its grand ceiling and ornate box seats make it a take-your-breath-away spot to catch a concert, especially during the Rossini Opera Festival.
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Teatro Romano
Southwest of Piazza Quaranta Martiri, off Viale del Teatro Romano, are the overgrown remains of a 1st-century Teatro Romano. In the summer, check with the tourist office about outdoor concerts held here.
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Caffè Venanzetti
Locals have assured us this is the best coffee shop in town. High ceilings and an old-style wood and mirror decor is a visual treat to go along with a delectable pastry case and one of the best cappuccinos in Le Marche.
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Teatro Lauro Rossi
Across the Piazza della Libertà square is the Teatro Lauro Rossi, an elegant theatre built in 1774 for the musical enjoyment of the nobility, which now allows well-dressed riffraff to attend.
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Caffè Morlacchi
Bring your bongo drums and leftist rhetoric to this most hip of establishments. Students, professors and expats nosh on international fare, sipping tea or hot chocolate during the day and cocktails at night.
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Vinosus
In photo-op range of the cathedral’s northwest wall is this wine bar and eatery. Try the cheese platter with local honey for an elegant addition to wine. Open until the wee hours.
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Teatro Sanzio
The grand old 19th-century Teatro Sanzio hosts plays and concerts, particularly from July to September. Pick up a brochure at the main tourist office.
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Enoteca Properzio Cantina Medievale
More intimate than Enoteca Properzio, Enoteca Properzio Cantina Medievale around the corner is set in a medieval vault and sells many edibles.
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Velvet
Come to where the beautiful people play. It opens around 10pm, but the well-dressed party here until the wee hours.
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Caffè Clandestino
This cafe-bar has a lively buzz, high ceilings, good coffee, nice snacks and brasserie-style meals, a few outside tables where you can sit with the sun on your face, and regular live music tucked into a relatively small space. What more could you want?
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