Things to do in Southern Tuscany
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La Piccola Gerusalemme
In the course of the 16th century, a Jewish community settled in Pitigliano, increasing notably when Pope Pius IV banned Jews from Rome in 1569. Under Medici rule, its members were moved into a tiny ghetto, where they remained until 1772. From then until well into the following century, the local community of 400 flourished, forming the largest Jewish community in Italy and leading to the town being dubbed 'Little Jerusalem'. By the time the Fascists introduced the race laws in 1938, most Jews had moved away; only 80 or so were left and precious few survived the war. Those that did survive were hidden from the Fascists by locals.
To visit the old Jewish ghetto, head down…
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Il Forno
Pick up a stick or two of sfratto, a gorgeously sticky local confection made of honey and walnuts, from this place. Counterbalance the sweetness with a glass or two of the town’s excellent dryish Bianco di Pitigliano wine.
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Osteria Il Tufo Allegro
This osteria is just off Via Zuccarelli. The aromas emanating from its kitchen should be enough to draw you into the cavernous chamber, carved out of the tufa foundations.
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Museo Archeologico
Museo Archeologico has a rich display of finds from local Etruscan sites. They’re well displayed, though the descriptive panels are in Italian only.
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Palazzo Orsini
Interlinked Piazza Petruccioli and Piazza Garibaldi provide a majestic walkway towards this 13th-century castle, which was enlarged by the Orsinis in the 16th century, eventually became the residence of the local bishop and is now home to a museum. Its rooms are filled with an eclectic collection of artworks and ecclesiastic oddments from churches in the diocese, including an unattributed and extremely unusual painting of Jesus being circumcised and a 14th-century wooden Madonna and Child statue by Jacopo della Quercia.
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La Cantina Incantata
As well as being the best people-watching spot in town, this welcoming cantina is a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and snack on local meats and cheeses.
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Il Pellicano
Proud possessor of two Michelin stars (one of only four such recipients in Tuscany), this classy restaurant at the five-star hotel of the same name specialises in seafood and has two outdoor terraces with spectacular views. There's also a less-expensive poolside grill and bar here.
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Hostaria del Ceccottino
Nestled in the shadow of the Baroque duomo, Ceccottino subscribes to both the Slow Food philosophy and the Km0 movement. It specialises in pasta, steaks and carpaccio. Tables on the piazza are hotly contested during summer.
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Giulia
Almost at the end of the lungomare (port promenade), Porto Santo Sefano's best cafe is a great spot for a morning coffee, panino (sandwich) lunch or late-afternoon aperitivo.
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Il Tufo Allegro
The aromas emanating from the kitchen door facing Via Zuccarelli should be enough to draw you down to the cavernous dining room, which is carved out of tufa foundations. The chef is known for his menù Goym (Gentiles menu), which features Jewish- influenced dishes such as buglione d'agnello (lamb soup with tomato and bread). You'll find it near Piccola Gerusalemme.
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Museo Civico Archeologico della Civiltà Etrusca
Accessed via a stone staircase opposite the entrance to Palazzo Orsini, this small but well-run museum has a rich display of finds from local Etruscan sites. Highlights include some huge intact bucchero (black earthenware pottery) urns dating from the 6th century BC and a collection of charming pinkish-cream clay oil containers in the form of small deer.
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