Things to do in San Gimignano
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Gelateria di Piazza
As the pictures on the wall attest, many celebrities have closed their lips around one of these rich ice creams (‘All the family thought the ice cream was delicious, ’ attested one Tony Blair). Master Sergio uses only the choicest ingredients: pistachios from Sicily and cocoa from Venezuela.
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Collegiata
The 13th-century Palazzo del Podestà and its tower, the Torre della Rognosa, look across to the town’s Romanesque basilica. Access is up a flight of steps. Its bare facade belies the remarkable 14th-century frescoes that stripe the interior walls like a vast medieval comic strip.
Along the northern aisle are frescoes of key moments from the Old Testament by Bartolo di Fredi. Opposite, covering the walls of the south aisle, the school of Simone Martini illustrates New Testament scenes. On the inside wall of the facade, extending onto adjoining walls, Taddeo di Bartolo probably scared the daylights out of pious locals with his gruesome depiction of the Last Judgment. The…
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Le Vecchie Mura
This is a wonderful spot, especially if you snap up a terrace table on a warm summer's night. The food competes with the phenomenal view of rolling green hills and the wine list has more than a dozen varieties of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Choose from a delicious selection of primi piatti such as gnocchi con tartufo e formaggio (gnocchi with truffles and cheese) and you can't go wrong with the perfectly prepared beef options. Book ahead to guarantee that panorama.
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Osteria delle Catene
The windows are plastered with the guidebook accolades it has justifiably received. The brick-barrelled interior is softly lit while the menu is heavy on strong meats - hare, boar, duck and rabbit. Alongside many Tuscan stalwarts and saffron experimentation such as the zuppa medievale, there's the spaghetti dell'Ostria (spaghetti with zucchini, sausages and chilli pepper in puréed sauce) and a small, but sublime carrot and leek soufflé.
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Pinacoteca
From the internal courtyard of Palazzo Comunale, climb the stairs to the Pinacoteca, which features paintings from the Sienese and Florentine schools of the 12th to 15th centuries. In the main room, the great poet Dante addressed the San Gimignano’s council, urging it to support the Guelph cause. The room contains an early 14th-century fresco of the Maestà by Lippo Memmi.
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Galleria Continua
Housed in the city's old theatre, Galleria Continua shows its collection of contemporary art by famous artists at virtually every major international art fair. It rarely represents Italian artists, so why they've kept this peculiar location in San Gimignano is something of a mystery. Or maybe it's a trend. The new gallery is in Beijing. Exhibitions change approximately every two months.
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Osteria al Carcere
A fine osteria, offering an atypical menu (the words ‘ primi ’ and ‘ secondi ’ are nowhere to be seen) loaded with distinctive plates. There are a half-dozen soups, including zuppa di farro e fagioli (spelt and white bean soup) and creative flashes like tacchina al pistacchi e arance (turkey with pistachios and orange sauce).
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Trattoria La Mangiatoia
A highly regarded trattoria serving tempting, regional fare like the small, but tasty saccottini di pecorino al tartufo (ravioli filled with potatoes and pecorino cheese with truffle sauce). With candles flickering and classical music in the background, share it with that special someone. Or hold hands after dark on the delightful summer patio.
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Il Castello
Both wine bar and restaurant, this place has a delightful patio with views and an all-brick, glass-domed courtyard. Nosh on a macho-meaty bistecca alla fiorentina or cinghiale alla sangimignanese con polenta (wild boar with polenta), or opt for a lighter option such as the pennette with broccoli, wild mushrooms and saffron.
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Palazzo Comunale
San Gimignano's other principal sight (in addition to the Collegiata), the Palazzo Comunale is the seat of secular power, founded in 1288, expanded in the 14th century and with a neogothic façade tacked on in the late 19th century. Climb up the palazzo's Torre Grossa for a spectacular view of the town and surrounding countryside.
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Dorando
Recognised by the Slow Food Movement, Dorando runs a classic five-course menu with dishes based on authentic Etruscan recipes. The menu is otherwise brief and focused (only four primi and four secondi ). The atmosphere is swanky yet cool, with intimate corners and works of art.
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Museo Archeologico & Speziera di Santa Fina
The Museo Archeologico & Speziera di Santa Fina complex is home to San Gimignano’s small archaeological museum and a reconstructed 16th-century pharmacy and herb garden. There’s also a modern art gallery that in itself merits a visit.
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Palazzo del Podestà
In the Piazza del Duomo the Collegiata (basilica) looks across to the late-13th-century Palazzo del Podestà and its tower, the Torre della Rognosa. The Palazzo Comunale, right of the basilica, is the town hall.
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Museo del Vino
In an unmarked gallery just outside San Gimignano's fortress is Museo del Vino. A sommelier is usually on hand to lead an informed – and paid – tasting of some of the choice local white wines.
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Tuscany Cycle Explorer
8 days (San Gimignano)
Pedal through Tuscany savouring the cultural heritage, superb architecture and delicious cuisine.
Not LP reviewed
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Il Pino
The atmosphere here is spruce, vaulted and airy. Service is friendly and attentive and the seasonal menu, which includes massive pasta plates and several truffle-based specialities, is a winner.
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Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
At the northern end of San Gimignano is the Chiesa di Sant’Agostino. Its main attraction is the fresco cycle in the apse by Benozzo Gozzoli, depicting the saint’s life.
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Piazza della Cisterna
The triangular Piazza della Cisterna, is named after the 13th-century cistern at its centre. The square is lined with houses and towers from the 13th and 14th centuries.
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Museo d’Arte Sacra
Across Piazza Pecori, the Museo d’Arte Sacra has some fine works of religious art, collected in the main from the San Gimignano’s churches.
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Vineyard Visits
If you'd prefer to sip your Vernaccia di San Gimignano on the spot, the tourist office organises vineyard visits. Advance reservations are essential.
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DiVinorum
This cool wine bar is housed in cavernous former stables. In summer, sip your drink on the tiny outdoor terrace with stunning valley views.
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Rocca
The Rocca is the crumbling shell of the town's fortress with great views across the valley, a small playground - and not much else.
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Museo Ornitologico
Due south of the fort is the Museo Ornitologico. Its mournful collection of stuffed birds dates back to 1886 and looks it.
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Enoteca Gustavo
Snacks include bruschetta and a plate of cheese with honey to go with your choice from the impressive selection of wines.
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Torre Grossa
Climb up Palazzo Comunale's Torre Grossa for a spectacular view of the town and surrounding countryside.
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