Italian restaurants in Tuscany
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A
Cibbé
Wine bottles fill the shelves and tables are marble-topped at this no-frills osteria tucked behind a box-hedge terrace. Hailed by Slow Food as a gatekeeper of local culinary custom, Cibbé is the place to try bozza di Prato (a round unsalted bread loaf typical to Prato) and mortadella di Prato (smoked pork salami spiced with black pepper corns, nutmeg, coriander and garlic).
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B
Ristorante Pensavo Peggio
Rare value in this stretch of Florence, this recently spruced-up restaurant has simple but surprisingly savoury pastas and roast meats, plus a touch of class with its gilt frames and wood-panelled walls. Besides offering great value, the jolly owner works to make even foreigners feel at home.
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C
La Beppa Fioraia
For some inventive Italian cooking, in what feels like the countryside, La Beppa Fioraia is worth going the extra mile. The homemade pasta dishes are all equally tempting, and the meat mains (sorry, no fish here) ooze flavour. Try the filetto di cinta senese con aceto balsamico (a thick, juicy pork fillet in a dark, tangy balsamic vinegar sauce, served with spinach). Before or after your meal, it's worth taking a stroll along this back lane through old olive groves and retiring villas.
You feel as though you're already deep in Chianti country.
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D
L'erta del Mangia
Up the lane leading to the Convento di San Francesco from Piazza Mino da Fiesole, this place's pleasant location is an immediate plus. The warm terracotta and timber interior adjoins the airy, chianti wine bottle-lined terrace with views over Florence. Some dishes make surprising departures from the standard canons, like the tagliatelle con fiori di zucca, piccione e pomodorini (ribbon pasta with pumpkin flowers, grilled pigeon meat and cherry tomatoes).
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E
Caffè Italiano Sud
Fronted by two potted olive trees, chef Umberto Montano's ode to southern Italy is a change from the Tuscan norm. Loads of home-made pasta, including unusual dishes from his native Puglia, stars on the menu.
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F
Borgo San Jacopo
Part of the Salvatore Ferragamo empire, this swish riverside restaurant marries a stylish cream-and-white interior with fashionable Arno views. Chef Beatrice Segoni whips up a wonderful combination of contemporary and traditional dishes, with a special penchant for seafood. Try the citrus-marinated mackerel, pasta stuffed with scallops, celeriac and chicory, or fritters with feta mousse. Reservations recommended.
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G
Da Cammillo
Buzzing with good cheer, this wonderful trattoria is spread over a honeycomb of cosy dining rooms. The kitchen, run with aplomb by Chiara Masiero, is less traditional than the bow-tied staff would suggest. It has a long menu that includes a number of seafood dishes as well as classic pastas, roast meats and house specialities such as ceciata di maile (fragrant pork stew). Reservations highly recommended.
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H
Boccanegra
Like a dark den, the 'Black Mouth' invites you to taste original spins on Italian combinations. The furniture has an antique feel and molten candles shed light on the surprises in your dishes, like piccione in rete (grilled pigeon). They throw in some vegetarian options as well, like the torta di asparagi e seitan su velluta di zafferano (asparagus and seitan pie on a saffron sauce).
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I
Caffè degli Artigiani
Sitting on one of the most atmospheric little piazzas in Florence, this quaintly countrified cafe pulls in local artisans in need of an espresso hit or a nip of brandy to complete a day’s work. In the small dining room, which seems to have been plucked from a Provençal farmhouse, you can enjoy quick eats such as sandwiches and homemade cakes. Even more inviting is the handful of outdoor tables.
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J
Locanda di Bacco
It is strictly cucina lucchese e Toscana - albeit of a refreshingly creative nature - at this fine specimen of a restaurant, grandly situated in an old building, with marble-topped tables. Pappardelle with hare, gnocchi with gorgonzola, honey and nuts, or a side order of cabbage cooked in red pepper wine, garlic and oil are among the many dishes with an imaginative twist.
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K
Filipepe
A theatrical, rustic and modern décor rolled into one makes a real change at this stylish dining space with a street terrace in front and a romantic, three-table courtyard out back. Dishes ooze innovation: fancy pearl barley crowned with goat's cheese, honey and a pear cooked in red wine? Octopus with polenta and cheese? Trendy moneyed couples are the prime clientele.
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L
Machiavelli
A much-loved Lucca favourite alongside Leo, this funky old-fashioned osteria has a definite retro air to it. Walls are pea-green, the bar is painted lavender-blue and the clientele is staunchly loyal, local, fun and of all ages. There is live music some nights and the cuisine - salted cod with leeks, chickpea soup and grilled pork ribs etc - ooze natural flavour.
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M
La Lancia d’Oro
Your order here is supplemented by excellent snacks and titbits that arrive unannounced. There’s a jolly, waggish waiter, while the interior, painted with swags and green-and-white stripes, is like dining in a marquee. Good light lunch menus (€15, two courses, plus glass of wine) are served on the terrace under the loggia that looks down over Piazza Grande.
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N
Borgo Antico
Prince and pauper, local and tourist are indiscriminately welcomed with a grin (and complimentary glass of sparkling wine when queues form) at this packed-to-the-rafters eatery. A veggie-stuffed calzone is a steal at €7, salads are jumbo and the pricier chef's specials offer good value. There's summer seating on the square outside.
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O
Buca di San Francesco
The walls of this arched and vaulted cellar are decorated with frescoes and copious religious art in deference to neighbouring Chiesa di San Francesco. It does three church-themed - 'friar', 'abbot' and 'prior' - and church-priced menus. The congenial owner takes indecisiveness as an invitation to usurp control and design a menu for you.
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P
Coquinarius
Nestled within the shadow of the Duomo, this enoteca is extremely popular with tourists, who respond well to its casually stylish decor and friendly vibe. The menu ranges from salads and crostini (a huge choice of both) to an unusual array of pastas – try the justly famous ravioli with cheese and pear. Bookings essential.
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Q
Osteria Santo Spirito
The crayoned, tatty menu at this popular place - outside which expectant diners and smoking kitchen staff mingle before it opens (not a second before time) - encompasses the best of Italian fare, prepared simply and delivered in huge portions on fabulous oversized, hand-painted plates.
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R
Ristorante Zàzà
This place gets its produce fresh from the covered market, just across the square. It's a great spot for combining outdoor dining with a little people-watching. In winter, head inside for some exposed-brick cosiness. The menu changes regularly and often presents imaginative dishes.
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S
Trattoria Il Contadino
The set menu price says it all. Don't expect gourmet grub, but if you need to fill up without inflicting fiscal damage, this is a good place to do it. A favourite with local workers, who know where to find value for their euro, it is one of several cheapies around here.
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T
Caffetteria Piansa
At this ebullient, vaulted local workers' diner, you basically point and choose from a limited number of cheap and tasty first and main courses. Get in early as it's all over by 14:30.
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U
I Tre Bicchieri
An upscale restaurant in a little square off Corso Italia, serving, among a range of innovative options, dishes such as roast quail in Chianti and creative fresh pasta options.
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