Restaurants in Livorno
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A
Cantina Senese
Food- and value-conscious harbour workers are the first to fill the long wooden tables at this wonderfully unpretentious and friendly eatery, with neighbourhood families arriving later. Ordering is frequently done via faith in one’s server, rather than by menu. The mussels are exceptionally good, as is the cacciucco di pesce (fish stew).
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B
Enoteca D.O.C. Parole e Cibi
Changes its menu weekly; you can enjoy fresh pasta dishes, superb seafood and a variety of carpaccio served with bread that - for once - is entirely worth that vexing coperto (cover charge in restaurants). The wines are excellent; it styles itself as an enoteca, olioteca (oil) and whiskyteca so you can be confident of getting top quality lubricants, whatever your preference. For dessert, a sugary, chocolate pastry, with vanilla cream.
reviewed
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C
Osteria La Barrocciaia
The worst-kept dining secret in Livorno it may be, but locating Barrocciaia still takes a careful eye, what with it being the most inconspicuous facade and well-hidden sign in Piazza Cavallotti. Big sandwiches (€5) are sold out of the tiny front room, but with luck and timing you can score a table and enjoy the real reason every local speaks of this place with reverence.
reviewed
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D
Antica Venezia
A dog-eared, pen-written menu filled with tempting dishes can be produced, with difficulty, if requested, but servers prefer to launch straight into the catch-of-the-day specials, usually negating the need for further consideration. A giant cacciucco costs €16.
reviewed
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Ristorante Lavilla
Ristorante Lavilla offers gourmet cuisine and keeps a great cellar of wines and whiskies. Bus No 3 runs hourly from Piazza Grande. Driving, take the Montanero exit from the A12. Driving from Livorno, signage is criminally inadequate. Call ahead for directions.
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E
Osteria Buatino
Though they were still painting and picking out tile at the time of writing, keep an eye out for Osteria Buatino managed by the same people who run a much loved place in Lucca by the same name, specializing in typical Tuscan and Livorno area cuisine.
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F
Il Giro del Cane
A Slow Food endorsed eatery, serving up classic, yet delicious Livorno seafood dishes with the occasional creative zap. It's well worth the walk to its eccentric location.
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G
Vecchia Livorno
Facing the Fortezza Nuova, this small, intimate family restaurant has a buzzy neighbourhood feel. Expect hearty, filling food; stick with the excellent fresh fish.
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H
Ristorante Città Orientale
For a change, this Chinese restaurant offers a wide selection of dishes without the usual migraine-inducing décor. The set menus are great value.
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I
Ristorante Aragosta
Right on the waterfront, this is the place for seafood. A nondescript exterior masks inner pleasures, mainly of a fishy kind.
reviewed
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