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Elba

Things to do in Elba

  1. Villa dei Mulini

    The Villa dei Mulini, Napoleon’s home while he was emperor of this small isle, has a splendid terraced garden and library. During his Elban exile, he certainly didn’t want for creature comforts – contrast his Elba lifestyle with the simplicity of his camp bed and travelling trunk when he was on the campaign trail. While the history lesson is nice, the dearth of actual Napoleonic artefacts is a tad disappointing.

    reviewed

  2. La Libertaria

    Seating capacity and backdrops are meagre, but the food here is divine. The linguine sarde e finocchietto (pasta with sardines and fennel) is an unlikely treat, and the cooked-to-perfection tonno in crosta di pistacchi (tuna fillet with pistachio crust) may actually keep you in Portoferraio an extra night for a second helping.

    reviewed

  3. Villa Napoleonica di San Martino

    The Villa Napoleonica di San Martino, where Napoleon occasionally dropped in, is set in hills about 5km southwest of Portoferraio. Modest by Napoleonic standards, it is dominated by the overbearing mid-19th-century gallery at its base, built to house his memorabilia. A combined ticket for both villas is €5.

    reviewed

  4. Cafescondido

    Way up the hill, towards Fortezza Falcone, with a raucous cafe at the front that gives no sign of the delicious food served in the impressionist art–festooned back room. Servers deftly explain Elba-centric culinary permutations on the chalkboard menu.

    reviewed

  5. Parco Nazionale dell'Arcipelago Toscano

    The Parco Nazionale Arcipelago Toscano is Europe’s largest marine protected area. Yet this 28km-long, 19km-wide island has plenty of quiet nooks, particularly if you time a visit for April, May or September. Avoid August at all costs.

    reviewed

  6. Osteria del Piano

    Osteria del Piano, about halfway between Portoferraio and Marciana Marina, is on the road just outside Procchio. It serves up astonishing concoctions such as black-and-white spaghetti served with a crab sauce.

    reviewed

  7. Il Ristorante Scaraboci

    Il Ristorante Scaraboci is a promising fish and seafood venue where all pastas and desserts are homemade. For something special, try the spaghetto al sugo d’astice (spaghetti with lobster sauce).

    reviewed

  8. Osteria La Botte Gaia

    Osteria La Botte Gaia is Slow Food–featured and deservedly so. Homemade pasta supplements the ever-changing daily menu that runneth over with just-caught fish options and a few veggie plates.

    reviewed

  9. Il Castagnacciao

    Hidden in an alley near central square Piazza Cavour, this iconic address with bench seating at wooden tables is tantamount to no-frills pizza bliss. Watch your thin-crust, rectangular-shaped pizza go in and out of the wood-fired oven and make sure you save space for dessert – castagnaccio (chestnut 'cake') baked in the same oven. Big appetites can kick off the lip-smacking feast with torta di ceci (chickpea 'cake').

    reviewed

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