Restaurants in Central Tuscany
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Il Canto de l’Hotel Certosa de Maggiano
With the fertile Tuscan countryside beginning almost at the city’s edge, food is the other municipal obsession, with Il Canto de l’Hotel Certosa de Maggiano widely recognised as the city’s top restaurant.
reviewed
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L’Osteria
We promised a local we wouldn’t put this one in the book. We lied. It was just too good. Plus the place was half-filled with tourists when we visited, so it’s not exactly a secret. No nonsense, but savoury dishes at prices locals will pay.
reviewed
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Trattoria del Sacco Fiorentino
A great little vaulted trattoria that serves up imaginative dishes with a happy selection of local wines. Try the piccione al vin santo e radicchio rosso (pigeon baked with red radicchio and wine) or the critical mass of flavour in the beef tartare with artichokes and fresh onions.
reviewed
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Thursday Morning Market
reviewed
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Tree Cristi
Seafood restaurants are thin on the ground in this meat-obsessed region, so the long existence of Tre Cristi (it's been around since 1830) should be heartily celebrated. The menu here is as elegant as the decor, and added touches such as a complimentary glass of prosecco (dry sparkling wine) at the start of the meal add to the experience. Dishes are delicate and delicious, and the tasting menus offer excellent value.
reviewed
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Web & Wine
This place is hard to characterise, being an internet point (€3 per hour), a stylish enoteca (with a good selection of tipples and food platters) and a restaurant specialising in organic vegetarian food – all at the same time. The decor features underlit Etruscan remains and the sound system is ruled by cool jazz.
reviewed
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Caffè dei Fornelli
The city's bohemian set congregates here. Poetry readings and exhibitions are regular occurrences, and the streetside terrace is the only place in town where you can enjoy a coffee or glass of wine while enjoying a view over the surrounding countryside.
reviewed
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Dal Bertelli
The Bertelli family has lived in San Gimignano since 1779, and its current patriarch is fiercely proud of both his heritage and his sandwiches. Sig. Brunello Bertelli sources his salami, cheese, bread and wine from local artisan producers and sells his generously sized offerings from an atmospheric space as far away as possible from what he calls the town's 'tourist grand bazaar'. Fabulous.
reviewed
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Da Nisio
The location's not the best (it's on the road to Poggibonsi, 1.5km before town, and is attached to the unattractive Le Colline hotel), but the food here is sensational. The chef/owner grows all of the vegetables he uses in his imaginative dishes, and results are both light and full of flavour. The antipasti 'specialità' changes according to what is in season, all pasta and bread is homemade, and meats are cooked on a wood grill, imparting excellent flavour.
reviewed
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Da Roberto Taverna in Montisi
reviewed
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Enoteca I Terzi
Close to the Campo but off the well-beaten tourist trail, this classy modern enoteca (wine bar) is a favourite with bankers from the nearby headquarters of the Monte dei Paschi di Siena bank, who linger over their working lunches of light-as-air fried baccalà (cod), delicate handmade pasta, flavoursome risotto and succulent grilled meats. Servings aren't huge (a relief after the giant-sized plates that are often the norm in Tuscany) and there's an excellent choice of wine by the glass. Go.
reviewed
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Grom
Delectable gelato with flavours that change with the season; many of the ingredients are organic or Slow Food–accredited. Also serves milkshakes.
reviewed
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La Carabaccia
A trio of local women – Sara, Lala and Patrizia – have put their heart and soul into this fantastic trattoria, which is the city's best lunch option. Named after a humble Tuscan vegetable soup, it has a small menu that changes daily according to what local producers are offering and always has vegetarian options. Sit on the front terrace or head indoors to enjoy the Italian folk music played on the sound system.
reviewed
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J
L'Incontro
Come here for excellent coffee, delectable home-baked biscuits and great savoury snacks. The rear salone is a great spot to grab a quick antipasto plate or panino for lunch, and the long front bar is always crowded with locals enjoying a coffee or aperitivo.
reviewed
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Locanda Sant'Antimo
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Morbidi
Local gastronomes shop here, as the range of cheese, cured meats and imported delicacies is the best in Siena. If you are self-catering you can join them, but make sure you also investigate the downstairs lunch buffet (from 12.30pm to 2.30pm), which offers fantastic value. For a mere €12, you can make your choice from platters of antipasti, salads, pastas and a dessert of the day; best of all is the fact that it's perfectly acceptable to return for second helpings! Bottled water is included in the price, wine and coffee cost extra.
reviewed
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Osticcio
A huge selection of Brunello and its more modest, but still very palatable, sibling Rosso di Montalcino joins dozens of bottles of wine from around the world at this excellent enoteca/osteria. After browsing the selection of wines downstairs, claim a table in the upstairs dining room for a glass of wine accompanied by a cheese and meat plate or a full meal. You can also enjoy a tasting session here (three Brunello €14.50, one Rosso and one Brunello €8).
reviewed
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Perucà
The lady owner here is as knowledgeable about regional food and wine as she is enthusiastic, and the food is excellent. Try the house speciality of fagottini del contadino (ravioli with pecorino, pears and saffron cream) with a glass of Fattoria San Donato's Vernaccia – it's a match made in heaven.
reviewed
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Pizzeria La Torre
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Ristorante di Poggio Antico
It's obligatory to visit at least one vineyard when in this world-famous wine region, and combining an excellent meal with a tasting is the way to do this in style. Located 4.5km outside town on the road to Grosseto, Poggio Antico makes award-winning wines (try its Brunello or Madre IGT), conducts tours of the winery (free), offers paid tastings (€22 for five wines) and has one of the area's best restaurants.
reviewed
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Ristorante-Enoteca Del Duca
Volterra's only fine-dining establishment serves traditional Tuscan dishes in its vaulted dining areas and lovely rear courtyard. It has an excellent wine list – not surprising considering the owner has his own vineyard (try his Giusto Alle Balze merlot).
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Visola del Gusto
Gelato lovers look no further: this place serves the freshest in town, starting at €1.50 for a small cone.
reviewed
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Enoteca Gustavo
Snacks include bruschetta and a plate of cheese with honey to go with your choice from the impressive selection of wines.
reviewed
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Nannini
Always crowded, Nannini is something of a Sienese institution, baking its finest cakes and serving up good coffee with speed and panache.
reviewed
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Caffè Poliziano
Established as a cafe in 1868, Poliziano has had a chequered past – at times functioning as a cafe-cabaret, mini-cinema and grocery store – but it was lovingly restored to its original form 20 years ago and has since regained its position as the town's favourite cafe. A sit-down coffee is expensive, but will be worth the outlay if you manage to score one of the tiny, precipitous balcony tables.
reviewed