Things to do in Arezzo
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Arezzo Cathedral
Arezzo's cathedral, at the top of the hill, was started in the 13th century, yet was not completed until well into the 15th century.
In the northeast corner, to the left of the bulky, intricately carved main altar, there's an exquisite fresco of Mary Magdalene by Piero della Francesca, itself dwarfed in size but not beauty by the multi-tiered, rich marble reliefs of the adjoining tomb of Bishop Guido Tarlati, featuring a frieze of priests and an acolyte chanting while holding a censer, a prayer book and candles. Off the north aisle, the Capella della Madonna del Conforto has a pair of fine glazed terracotta images from the della Robbia workshop. On the right as you enter …
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Pieve di Santa Maria
This 12th-century church has a magnificent Romanesque arcaded facade, in form reminiscent of the cathedral at Pisa, yet without the glorious marble facing. Over the central doorway are lively carved reliefs representing the months of the year. The 14th-century bell tower with its 40 apertures is something of an emblem for the city. The monochrome of the interior’s warm, grey stone is relieved by Pietro Lorenzetti’s fine polyptych, Madonna and Saints, beneath the semidome of the apse.
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Roman Amphitheatre
Adjoining the Museo Archeologico, this once seated up to 10,000 spectators. Inside, there's a sizable collection of Etruscan and Roman artefacts, including locally produced ceramics and bronzes. Among the highlights is the Cratere di Euphronios, a large 6th-century-BC Etruscan vase, decorated with vivid scenes showing Hercules in battle, and, upstairs, an exquisite tiny portrait of a bearded man executed on glass in the 3rd century AD.
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La Lancia d’Oro
Your order here is supplemented by excellent snacks and titbits that arrive unannounced. There’s a jolly, waggish waiter, while the interior, painted with swags and green-and-white stripes, is like dining in a marquee. Good light lunch menus (€15, two courses, plus glass of wine) are served on the terrace under the loggia that looks down over Piazza Grande.
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Cathedral
Arezzo’s cathedral was started in the 13th century yet was not completed until well into the 15th century. In the northeast corner, left of the main altar, an exquisite fresco of Mary Magdalene by Piero della Francesca is dwarfed in size, but not beauty, by the rich marble reliefs of the tomb of Bishop Guido Tarlati.
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Buca di San Francesco
The walls of this arched and vaulted cellar are decorated with frescoes and copious religious art in deference to neighbouring Chiesa di San Francesco. It does three church-themed - 'friar', 'abbot' and 'prior' - and church-priced menus. The congenial owner takes indecisiveness as an invitation to usurp control and design a menu for you.
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Chiesa di San Francesco
Gracing the apse of this 14th-century church is one of the greatest works of Italian art, Piero della Francesca’s fresco cycle of the Legend of the True Cross (1452–66). This masterpiece relates in 10 episodes a highly coloured subsequent history of the cross on which Christ was crucified.
You can get some sense of the frescoes from beyond the cordon in front of the altar, but to really appreciate them up close, plan ahead for a visit with audioguide. As only 25 people are allowed in every half-hour, it’s essential to prebook by phone or at any of the sites that participate in the combined ticket scheme. The ticket office is at Piazza San Francesco 4, to the right of …
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Casa di Petrarca
Via del Pileati leads to Casa di Petrarca , the poet's former home, which contains a small museum and the Accademia Petrarca, a library and research institute devoted primarily to Petrarch. Visits are by appointment and really only for serious Petrarch fans. Enquire at the tourist office for more details.
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Ristorante Logge Vasari
This restaurant has a terrace fronting Piazza Grande, two pleasant interior rooms and class that defies stereotypically dire 'piazza cuisine'. The menu degustazione is a parade of flavours and interesting flourishes to local dishes. Let your server choose the wine - he'll be right.
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Palazzo della Fraternità dei Laici
The Palazzo della Fraternità dei Laici with its churchlike façade, in the northwest corner of the piazza, was started in 1375 in the Gothic style and finished after the onset of the Renaissance. A frenzied antiques fair is held here on the first weekend of each month.
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Casa di Vasari
To the west of Chiesa di San Domenico, the Casa di Vasari was built and sumptuously decorated (overwhelmingly so in the case of the Sala del Camino, the Fireplace Room) by the architect himself; ring the bell if the door’s closed.
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La Vigna Trattoria
Choose your meat, then watch it sizzle on the giant, open fireplace. Apart from possibly the bread, vegetarians will have little choice here. Less zealous carnivores can choose from the short pizza menu and a selection of homemade desserts.
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La Torre di Gnicche
Just off Piazza Grande, this is a fine traditional restaurant offering a rich variety of antipasti. Choose from the ample range of local pecorino cheeses, accompanied by a choice red from the extensive wine list.
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Casa Museo di Ivan Bruschi
Opposite the Pieve di Santa Maria & around is the Casa Museo di Ivan Bruschi, where you can cast an eye over the varied collection of art and antiques amassed by the man who founded the Arezzo antiques fair.
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Chiesa di San Domenico
A short detour to the Chiesa di San Domenico is a must so you can see the haunting Crucifixion – one of Cimabue’s earliest works, painted around 1265 – that rears above the main altar.
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Museo Archeologico
East of the train station, the Museo Archeologico is in a convent overlooking the remains of a Roman amphitheatre. It has a sizeable collection of Etruscan and Roman artefacts.
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Fortezza Medicea
Up high to the southeast of the cathedral, across the peaceful gardens of the Passeggio del Prato, rears the Fortezza Medicea, completed in 1560 and offering grand views of the town and surrounding countryside.
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Compagni di Merende
A friendly, unassuming little wine bar with an unparalleled position, tucked under the loggia overlooking Piazza Grande. Enjoy a plate of cheese or cold cuts, or simply a restorative glass of wine.
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La Tua Piadina
A justifiably popular takeaway place hidden away down a side street, where you can get a range of hot, tasty piadine, the Emilia-Romagna version of the wrap, from around €3.50.
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I Tre Bicchieri
An upscale restaurant in a little square off Corso Italia, serving, among a range of innovative options, dishes such as roast quail in Chianti and creative fresh pasta options.
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Museo Statale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna
The Museo Statale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna houses works by local artists, including Luca Signorelli and Vasari, spanning from the 13th to 18th centuries.
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Palazzo delle Logge Vasariane
This cobbled Piazza Grande, the venue for the Giostra del Saracino, is overlooked at its upper end by the porticoes of the Palazzo delle Logge Vasariane, completed in 1573.
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Trattoria Il Saraceno
This trattoria serves quality, varied Tuscan fare. The impressive wine collection is hard to miss, as it conspicuously lines the walls. Pizzas start at €5.
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Vita Bella
Opposite the Chiesa di San Francesco, Vita Bella is an agreeable place with wrought-iron chairs where you can sip a Negroni and watch the world go by.
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Alessandro Madiai
A passionate cyclist, runs two five-hour bicycle tours, plus overnighters, around the enchanting southern Tuscany countryside within reach of Arezzo.
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