Things to do in Trento
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A
Pedavena
Bratwurst, tripe and hearty pasta dishes fill the menu of this Germanic 1920s beer hall adorned with wall-mounted stag heads.
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Cathedral
Trento’s centrepiece is the busy yet intimate Piazza del Duomo, dominated by its stalwart Romanesque cathedral. Once host to the Council of Trent, the dimly lit church displays fragments of medieval frescoes inside its transepts. Two colonnaded staircases flank its nave, and the foundations of an early Romanesque-Gothic church form part of an archaeological area that also has some extraordinary Roman remains dating from prior to the first church. The town’s bishops are buried in the adjacent mausoleum.
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Scringno del Duomo
Skip the set menus and you can actually dine in this refined establishment – Trento’s oldest building, dating back to the 1200s – for a good price. Tables in Scringno’s gastronomic downstairs restaurant look into a glassed-in Roman cellar that holds more than 1000 different wines. The rustic upstairs restaurant serves local specialities such as canederli di pomi con fonduta di taleggio (oven-baked dumplings with cheese) and lake-caught salmerino fish. Delizioso without exception.
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Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
Housed in the regal Palazzo delle Albere is Trento’s small Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, part of MART in Rovereto. Works displayed inside the museum include 19th- and early-20th-century impressionist and symbolist paintings by Trentino artists, the most impressive being Luigi Bonazza’s huge triptych, La leggenda di Orfeo (1905). Look out for the colourful fragmentary frescoes on the walls, too.
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Castello del Buonconsiglio
Guarded by hulking fortifications, Castello del Buonconsiglio was home to Trento’s bishop-princes until Napoleon’s arrival in 1801. Behind the walls are the original 13th-century castle, the Castelvecchio, and the Renaissance residence Magno Palazzo, which provides an atmospheric backdrop for a varied collection of art and antiques and hosts regular temporary exhibitions.
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E
Museo Diocesano
In the former bishop’s residence of Palazzo Pretorio, dating from the 11th century, illuminated manuscripts, paintings depicting the Council of Trent and liturgical vestments form part of the outstanding collection in the Museo Diocesano. Admission to the museum also includes entry to a cathedral’s archaeological zone and treasury.
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Due Giganti
It sounds like an oxymoron, but it isn’t. At last, a ‘fast-food’ restaurant that’s tasty and not conducive to heart attacks. American-style fast-food franchisers would do well to send their researchers to Due Giganti to sample the fresh pizzas, buffet salads and regularly topped-up pastas. A height measure invites children under 1m tall to eat for free.
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Caffè Tridente
Look out for this unmissable joint in the main square (there’s no sign) open all hours to anyone with a student textbook and a penchant for cappuccino alternated with German beer. Later on, romantic types can be seen cavorting next to the grand central fountain, or pausing in the dark shadows beneath the church to exchange ti amos.
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Badia di San Lorenzo
Near the main train station, the 12th-century Badia di San Lorenzo, once attached to a long-gone monastery, is worth a look for its cross-vaulting festooned with red stars and its bronze statue of Padre Pio. The abbey was badly damaged by WWII bombing and again during the 1966 floods, but has now been faithfully restored.
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Monte Bondone
Travelling by car from Sardagna (as there is no public transport), 15km of winding road brings you to the small ski station of Vaneze di Monte (1350m). It is connected via cable car to both Vasòn (its higher counterpart where most ski schools and ski-hire shops are located), and to the gentle slopes of 1537m-high Monte Bondone.
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Tridentum La Città Sotterranea
Subterranean Trento can be explored at the fascinating Tridentum La Città Sotterranea. The extensive remains were discovered less than two decades ago during restoration works on Piazza Battisti’s theatre, and include sections of paved streets and the city walls, a tower, a house with mosaics, and a workshop.
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Osteria Trentina
A favourite with students from Trento's university, Trentina's wooden tables, chilled music and art work make it a great spot to head early evening for a spritz (aperol and white wine served in a brandy glass with orange slices) along with free aperitivi (happy hour) fare brought to your table.
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Patelli
A long, cavernous restaurant with waiters in waistcoats, and delicately folded napkins, Patelli still feels like the kind of place where you can wear Umbro shorts and get away with it. Traditional trattoria fare includes a memorably fresh gnocchi with chestnuts and pistachios accompanied by fruity red wines.
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Al Volt
Since 1894 Al Volt has specialised in piatti tipici trentini ('typical Trento plates'). Choose from a couple of first courses and five or six seconds, and finish off with strudel della nonna (grandma's strudel).
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Giardino Alpine Botanico
Crisscrossed by 37km of cross-country ski trails and nine downhill runs in winter, Monte Bondone’s pristine slopes are home during the summer months to the Giardino Alpine Botanico.
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Fontana di Nettuno
In the centre of Piazza del Duomo is the Fontana di Nettuno, a splashing 18th-century fountain dedicated to the trident-wielding Neptune.
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Casa Cazuffi-Rella
Frescoes decorate the façades of two Renaissance houses, known as the Casa Cazuffi-Rella, on the piazza's northern side.
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Funivia Trento-Sardagna
A scenic cable-car ride from Trento on the Funivia Trento-Sardagna brings you to Sardagna.
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Supermercato Trentino
If you’re hitting the hills, pick up picnic supplies at Supermercato Trentino.
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