Restaurants in Trentino Alto Adige
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A
Pedavena
Bratwurst, tripe and hearty pasta dishes fill the menu of this Germanic 1920s beer hall adorned with wall-mounted stag heads.
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Fischbänke Pic-Nic Bar
A sign next to the speakers that reads ‘This is not McDonald’s’ says it all. Run by artist-host– bon vivant Cobo on the site of the old fish market, the Fischbänke has the market’s original white-marble tables that you can pull up a stool at for a glass of Tyrolean wine, and quite possibly northern Italy’s most beautiful bruschetta, while Cobo shows you his artwork, which includes a series of charismatic cartoon birds. Hours can vary if Cobo feels like shutting up early or (more likely) staying open late.
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Scringno del Duomo
Skip the set menus and you can actually dine in this refined establishment – Trento’s oldest building, dating back to the 1200s – for a good price. Tables in Scringno’s gastronomic downstairs restaurant look into a glassed-in Roman cellar that holds more than 1000 different wines. The rustic upstairs restaurant serves local specialities such as canederli di pomi con fonduta di taleggio (oven-baked dumplings with cheese) and lake-caught salmerino fish. Delizioso without exception.
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El Molin
Something of a legend in Val di Fiemme and recent recipient of a Michelin star (meaning it ain’t cheap), El Molin is housed in an old mill; at street level you can sit at small tables on high stools and dine on delicious fish, meat and pasta dishes. Downstairs, next to the old waterwheels, it’s a wonderland of stone nooks and crannies, candlelight and the concoctions of chef Alessandro Gilmozzi. Think local, seasonal ingredients embellished with a quirky, playful twist.
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Al Penny
Sink into a big, comfy booth at this relaxed restaurant on the edge of Andalo to feast on traditional Trentino specialities such as spinach dumplings, and both lake and ocean fish. All the bread here is homemade – if you can’t decide, try a mixed basket that includes wholegrain bread, crusty white-flour bread and delicious still-warm potato bread. Al Penny also has a handful of rooms and apartments with prices available on request.
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St Hubertus
Set in the superluxurious Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa (don’t even look at the rates here unless you’re planning on re-mortgaging your house), the two-Michelin-star St Hubertus offers the kind of ‘event’ meal that you’ve been scrimping your whole trip to afford. If you’re going to invest your under-the-bed savings in one romantic blow-out, this could be the place. Try the local beef wrapped in mountain hay.
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Restaurant Walthers’
Take a seat on the terrace spilling onto Bolzano’s main square, or head into the cool, dark interior to dine on Asian- and Mediterranean-influenced dishes such as wok-fried tagliatelle with prawns, grilled tuna with vegetables, sesame seeds and wasabi, or spit-roasted veal. Don’t miss Walthers’ espresso mousse, served in a classic espresso cup and topped with fresh cream and coffee beans.
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Due Giganti
It sounds like an oxymoron, but it isn’t. At last, a ‘fast-food’ restaurant that’s tasty and not conducive to heart attacks. American-style fast-food franchisers would do well to send their researchers to Due Giganti to sample the fresh pizzas, buffet salads and regularly topped-up pastas. A height measure invites children under 1m tall to eat for free.
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Caffè Tridente
Look out for this unmissable joint in the main square (there’s no sign) open all hours to anyone with a student textbook and a penchant for cappuccino alternated with German beer. Later on, romantic types can be seen cavorting next to the grand central fountain, or pausing in the dark shadows beneath the church to exchange ti amos.
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Kusk La Locanda
Billing itself as Il locale piú trendy delle Dolomiti, Kusk is legendary throughout the Val di Fassa for its après-ski scene. This four-way split between a pizzeria, American bar, disco and Italian restaurant is where you can spend the whole evening, chomping on wood-fired pizza while dancing to upbeat Latin and jazz.
reviewed
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Hopfen & Co
Step back into the Habsburg era at this venerable 800-year-old inn that serves up hearty portions of traditional dishes, including sauerkraut and sausages cooked in beer. The bar is a dark wood-panelled affair, fine for sampling the cloudy, unfiltered beer that’s brewed on the premises in a couple of gleaming copper vats.
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Osteria Trentina
A favourite with students from Trento's university, Trentina's wooden tables, chilled music and art work make it a great spot to head early evening for a spritz (aperol and white wine served in a brandy glass with orange slices) along with free aperitivi (happy hour) fare brought to your table.
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Patelli
A long, cavernous restaurant with waiters in waistcoats, and delicately folded napkins, Patelli still feels like the kind of place where you can wear Umbro shorts and get away with it. Traditional trattoria fare includes a memorably fresh gnocchi with chestnuts and pistachios accompanied by fruity red wines.
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Agritur Fior di Bosco
For a bucolic experience, Agritur Fior di Bosco is a delightful agriturismo (farm-stay accommodation) serving organic farm products, including cheese from its own dairy (you can even have a hand in processing the milk). You’ll need your own wheels to get here.
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Ristorante Concordia
You’re sure of getting the real deal here: all the pasta served in Concordia’s wood-panelled dining room is made by hand, as are the breads, including olive, vegetable and nut varieties; the ham, too, is smoked on the premises and the wines come from the surrounding vineyards.
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El Paél
An unfancy place with a reputation, this Osteria Tipica Trentina has a traditional Ladin kitchen cooking up specialities of Val di Fassa such as nettle dumplings with spinach and Vezzena cheese, asparagus with liquorice sauce, and venison with steamed pumpkin.
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Café König
Merano’s best pasticceria (pastry shop) is an old-fashioned local gathering spot, with a tempting takeaway counter up front, and comfy tables down the back. Great for an espresso and slice of strudel or something more filling. Snacks cost from €3.50.
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Forsterbräu
Set around an atmospheric courtyard, this typically Tyrolean restaurant cooks up a lovely Gulaschsuppe (goulash soup) and a choice of fresh trout dishes. The place is actually part of the Forst brewery concern, making a pint of Forst beer a must.
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Al Volt
Since 1894 Al Volt has specialised in piatti tipici trentini ('typical Trento plates'). Choose from a couple of first courses and five or six seconds, and finish off with strudel della nonna (grandma's strudel).
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Café Antermont
Handily situated next to the main bus stop, this woodcarved cafe is an authority on homebaked sponge cake with Alpine cream and a shot of espresso. Nearby, a fork-wielding Ladino cooks up German sausages at a roadside stall.
reviewed
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Vögele
Dating back to 1277 and owned by the same family since 1840, this antiques-filled pub and restaurant serves hearty Tyrolean fare, such as schnitzels, in candlelight surrounds; otherwise you can just come by for a drink.
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Baita Checco
Here staff in red-and-white gingham serve Alpine specialities such as Gorgonzola-drizzled canederli (bread dumplings) in the split-level stone interior or on a wind-protected sun terrace.
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Vinoteca Pizzeria Relax
This bottle-lined bar-restaurant is a great place to try a glass or two of Alto Adige’s fine wines, as well as steaming hot pizzas.
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